There's been a crisis at the heart of Italian masculinity of late. It's hard to imagine a Francis Ford Coppola mafia boss donning a plush silk Gucci robe or a petal-fine Prada poet blouse.
But, as an antidote to these flyaway-haired princelings, this season there were also plenty of examples of sprezzatura – the distinctly Italian emphasis on looking considered and together, but effortlessly laid-back. Being polished but undone, easy but never sloppy, is a tricky knack to finesse – much like the Italian ability to conjure up a perfect espresso. Because while nonchalantly shrugging a cashmere scarf over your shoulder at just the right angle can look dashing on a Roman, it works less well on a pasty Scotsman like myself.
And yet, sprezzatura is the backbone of Italian gentlemanly style. This fellow is part Lapo Elkann (the Fiat scion playboy heir who wears a checked suit with panache), part Marcello Mastroianni, and a world apart from his English brother in garms; not for him the rigid solemnity of a Savile Row suit or properness of a starched shirt and Windsor knot tie. Here's what can we learn from Italy's style cognoscenti.
Take a softly, softly approach
"Italians know how to make suiting that's comfortable, modern and easy to move in," says Umberto Angeloni, CEO of Italian label Caruso. While most men feel at home in the structure and silhouette of a well-cut suit, Italian style is based on loosening up a touch. Start with the shoulder; ditch the padding in favour of an unstructured shoulder and raglan sleeve for an easier stance. Extra points if it comes with a rolled collar and robe-like belt.
Upgrade your cashmere
Unsurprisingly, fabric is the lynchpin of sharp Italian style. Not for nothing are the best cashmere and vicuna (an extraordinarily fine and expensive wool) created in Italy, with brands investing in research and development to experiment with new forms. (Zegna, for instance, debuted a cashmere denim on the catwalk this season.)
Meanwhile, Brunello Cucinelli – renowned as the "King of Cashmere" – created a lightweight Sea Island cotton cord on jackets and trousers. "Its lightness is fantastic for movement. It's important to take pleasure in the touch and feel of the fabrics," he says. If your budget doesn't stretch to three - sometimes four – figures, high street retailers, such as Marks & Spencer and Uniqlo, boast a fine line of butter-soft cashmere sweaters. Opt for the best you can afford, and for extra Amalfi dash, drape it over your shoulders.
Mix it, don't match it
Stop fretting about whether the standard grey chinos match the safe navy sweater; Italians know how to have fun with dressing up. Go the extra mile in contrasting checks and plaids – a Prince of Wales-patterned jacket spliced with windowpane check trousers, for example. Or opt for a more subtle approach via layering. Pal Zileri is proof that a gilet worn over a shirt, with a polo neck underneath, can look effortless. And reminds us that the humble polo is something of a mainstay in the art of Italian elegance; invest in a thin, lightweight number quick smart.
Tilt that trilby just so
Accessories are a key component of sprezzatura; alongside cashmere, Italy is the hub of leather goods. A trusty rucksack might cut it in Blighty, but a sleek leather portfolio is a more intelligent choice; the relatively small proportions and narrow envelope shape call for a thorough editing of what makes the grade to cart on your way. A lightweight scarf in a muted pattern will put a spring in your style step, too. Ditto a beautifully made pair of trainers. Tod's has a line of beautifully patina-ed ones that will fit the relaxed mood nicely.
If you've got it, flaunt it
"The Versace man has a silhouette that starts with strong shoulders, and then is tight on the legs," says Donatella Versace. In other words, if you've got the goods, don't be afraid to show them off. Opt for fitted shirts in fine cotton and nifty little trousers perfect for showing off the results of Leg Day. But apply caution with this one; one man's snug fit is another man's trussed-up-like-a-turkey.
That's sprezzatura sorted. All that's required now is a stiff macchiato and a passion for football.
The Telegraph, London