Gewurztraminer's remarkable aroma – reminiscent of musk and lychee – tends to attract at first, then repel with its unrelenting attack on the senses.

I've toyed with the variety for about 40 years, since falling in and out of love, in one evening, with a particularly heady version from Alsace. The fascination returned recently with tastings of the 2014 and 2015 vintages from Mark Kirkby's Toppers Mountain vineyard.

The 2014 tasted so pure and delicate at the Winewise Championship; and a few days later the new-release 2015 showed similar class.

This is dry, intense gewurztraminer of the highest order. It's a wine to admire, but probably not drink much of.