Tom Ward's Swinging Bridge chardonnays demonstrate the varietal intensity achieved in Orange's high-altitude vineyards. His current releases include this lovely Mrs Payten 2014 and a reserve bottling, also from the 2014 vintage. Mrs Payten – a richer, rounder style for Orange – seduces with ripe, nectarine-like varietal flavour and refreshing, brisk acidity. The reserve version echoes those nectarine-like flavours in a leaner, tighter style of great intensity. These are classy drops from a region that makes excellent wines, yet struggles to create a clear style identity as Canberra has with its shiraz and riesling.