Pitti Uomo: Have we had enough of 'peacocking' men?

Pitti Uomo, the bi-annual menswear trade summit in Florence, Italy, is the stuff of an excessive Instagrammer's dreams.

There's the architectural backdrops such as the gothic-style Duomo; the golden hour light that illuminates the old bridges that divide the Arno River; food porn such as the obligatory cone of gelato and the city's famous, massive bistecca alla Florentina; and, of course, the well-documented street-style scene.

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The latter has essentially, and unofficially, crowned Florence – and Pitti – the spiritual home of the menswear 'peacock' (for the uninitiated: a man with an enviable yet highly calculated sense of style who puffs up around the famous "Walls of Pitti" in hopes of being photographed, as to be reassured of his sartorial dominance and achievements).

Love-hate street-style

Now, if I'm being honest, I have a love-hate relationship with the street-style culture. As a fashion journalist who teeters on the edge of the new guard and the old (who usually practises a more self-effacing approach to expressing one's style), I absolutely understand the importance of visual self-branding and would go as far as to say I appreciate its far-reaching capabilities.

But I also loathe it. Especially when I have to brave every Fashion Week's surplus of professional show-offs just to do my job.

Overall the looks are looser, less constructed, tonal, and casual.

Josh Peskowitz

Scroll through the gallery above to see the best looks from outside the Fortezza da Basso, where Pitti Uomo is held.

But Pitti is the exception to my grouchy pseudo-intolerance toward showboating. Here, the vibrancy of the industry makes it hard not to get as caught up in (or at least completely entertained and inspired by) the copious amounts of double-breasted, try-hard fashion hoopla that happens outside and in the Fortezza da Basso, the 16th century fort that has long housed the trade show.

Elevated sportswear vibe

Yet this season is different. So far it has seemed a lot less … bold. Instead of the usual sea of outlandishly mad-for-plaid-type gents in oversize, fur-trimmed shearling coats and double monk-strap shoes, it has seemed as though a majority of attendees had pared down their attire considerably in favour of a return to a more "quiet luxury".

I'm not alone in these observations. "The flamboyant colours have definitely been toned down," says Josh Peskowitz, menswear industry veteran and co-owner of Magasin, a new men's store in Los Angeles.

"People in general don't feel as done up, and I think this represents the trend toward tailored clothing that men treat more as sportswear. Overall the looks are looser, less constructed, tonal, and casual."

It's true, a casual formality – or elevated sportswear vibe – has certainly taken hold. Instead of eclectic ensembles and, yes, the occasional misstep, such as a lime-green, three-piece suit or a pot-holder-like cardigan layered over overalls, men were mostly in minimalist, but luxe, separates.

Function and fabric

"Sartorial Italian brands understand we live in a more casual world now and are creating less formal suits and jackets that work as well with sneakers and jeans as double monks," says Brian Boye, executive fashion director at Men's Heath, mentioning the greens, earth tones, and "incredible" casual, unstructured jackets and coats on show. "The emphasis is more function and fabric technology than showboat styles—a classic, wearable vibe for fall.

"Men who might find fashion out of their reach may start to feel more accepting when they see clothes next fall they can actually incorporate into their life."

If you're one of them, here are my top six style takeaways from the nattily dressed men of Pitti Uomo 89.

Wear more brown with blue

And tan and black. Brown is definitely the favoured colour partner of this season and next.

Rethink formal wear

Gone are the days when black tie meant only a silk-blend black tuxedo. Designers are re-imagining their evening attire to include brown cashmere-blend dinner jackets and nubby, knitted cobalt-blue options.

Cardigans: not just for grandpa

In particular, chunky shawl-collar versions (à la Kurt Cobain circa 1993) were seen paired with more constructed pieces, such as pinstripe suits and grey-flannel blazers.

A return to practicality

The overriding sense of the season is comfort, but without sacrificing style. Embrace the looser, softer silhouettes and layering on of nubby textures—as they can be truly elegant when done correctly.

Mix patterns like a pro

The key to executing enviable pattern play is to balance proportions—such as mixing a larger, bolder plaid with a micropattern. Then anchor the look by keeping everything else (shirt, tie, etc.) a solid.

Invest in down

Give your layering staples an added bonus with a down-filled gilet, or vest. Try wearing it over and under your tailoring for a sporty, more relaxed look.

But above all, remember to do you. You want to look stylish but not styled.

"All dressing well really takes is understanding fit, having confidence, and liking what you wear," says Peskowitz.

BLOOMBERG

Executive Style