What's the lowdown?

E'cco Bistro restaurant manager Mary Randles has opened a French-focused solo venture in the site once home to Gorditas. Her partner and E'cco owner/chef Philip Johnson has designed the menu, which is chock-full of bistro favourites from parfait to tartare to creme caramel.  

Red curtains meet red carpet at Madame Rouge. Photo: Jared Vethaak

Why should I care?

Because there's finally a classic French restaurant in the Valley. (Les Bubbles doesn't count because it only serves steak frites.)

It's a handsome joint, too, with dark red drapes meeting dark red carpet, flickering candelabras, Toulouse-Lautrec prints and an "oh-champs Elysees!" soundtrack.  A marble-topped bar horseshoes half the room and it's the kind of spot where a quick drinks become a long dinners.

The best thing is that it takes five minutes to forget you're in the M&A; development, which feels more like ritzy train station than somewhere you want to eat.  

Goat's cheese souffle. Photo: Supplied

What's on the menu?

Highlights from Johnson's carte include gratinated goat's cheese souffle ($16), char-grilled octopus with kipflers, roast peppers and paprika ($20), slow-cooked duck leg on a bed of puy lentils and kale ($32), John Dory a la meuniere ($35) and steak frites ($36).

That's if you want a full feed, though. Pulling up a pew for a couple of oysters and a dirty martini is a perfectly excellent way to spend your time here.

French, Australian and New Zealand drops comprise a short wine list that hits all price points. Our pick is the Bill Downie 2015 Gippsland pinot noir ($145) and Randles says she hopes to add more big ticket French bottles in the future.  

Steak frites fun times at Madame Rouge. Photo: Supplied

Randle and Johnson are professional operators and provide a level of hospitality beyond "how's-your-day-been?". Madame Rouge is a top addition to the off-James Street precinct and your new spot for boulevardiers and beignets.

Tues-Thurs & Sat 5pm-midnight; Fri noon-midnight; Sun noon-5pm

11B/100 McLachlan Street Fortitude Valley, 07 3252 8881, madamerougebistro.com.au