Where are Victoria’s best beaches?
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THE beach is part of us — it’s not just because come summer sand coats our scalps and our eyebrows crackle with salt.
The beach has a special place in our collective identity. We flee to it from the heat of the cities, towns and sunburnt paddocks.
We celebrate freedoms: time off work, school or mundane day-to-day life. We go there to be alone, we make memories with families and friends there.
The beach means a lot of other things, too, for a whole lot of people. Perhaps that’s the point — it means something to all of us, no matter who we are or why we go there.
It’s a quintessential part of an Australian summer.
So where’s your favourite beach? Victoria’s 2512km of coastline means we’re spoiled for choice. Whether your thing is a surf at dawn, fishing at dusk, spotting wildlife, slapping up a sandcastle, people watching or getting away from civilisation.
There’s a beach you’ll love somewhere between Nelson, 4km from the South Australian border, to Croajingolong National Park near the NSW border.
We asked the experts — Parks Victoria employees across the state, Visit Victoria staff, Lifesaving Victoria’s Paul Shannon and Sunday Escape’s Susan Bugg — to nominate their favourite Victorian beaches. From their advice, we’ve compiled a guide to the best of the best.
Bells Beach
Bells Beach Rd, via Great Ocean Rd — 6km west of Torquay
Great for: surfing and spectating, walking, fishing
Why we love it: It’s a pity icon is a cliche, because Bells is undeniably an icon of Australian beach and surf culture.
Hardcore adventurers were riding the break at Bells in the 1930s. It was creating a buzz by 1960 when Olympic wrestler Joe Sweeney hired a bulldozer to clear a track to this near-perfect surf spot 6km southwest by road from Torquay. (He charged each surfer a pound to recover his costs.) By January 1961, the world’s best surfers were there for the first Bells Beach Classic. Now called the Rip Curl Pro Surf and Music Festival, it’s the world’s longest-running surfing competition. In 1963 Bruce Brown and his crew made it to Bells, filming their surf odyssey movie The Endless Summer. The secret was definitely out.
Thankfully for the current crop of surfers and beachgoers, many of the early Bells surfers had an eye on the future. From the 1970s onwards, local surfers have taken on the role as conservationists and have planted more than 100,000 trees.
The waves that first captured the imagination of the world’s surfers all those years ago are still pumping. If you’re not game, you can stand up on the viewing platforms and watch those who are, whatever the weather. In fact, the rougher the day, the more exciting the surfing is to watch.
Did you know: the Australian character in the 2007 animated movie Surf’s Up was from Bells.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 6/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: parking, drinking water, showers, toilets, surfing viewing for Bells and Winki Pop, Surf Coast Walk, wildflowers, dogs allowed on lead.
Fairhaven
Great Ocean Road, 18km east of Lorne
Great for: surfing, horseriding, fishing, beach cricket
Why we love it: At 6km, this is the Great Ocean Road’s longest beach. Everything you see at Fairhaven looks like a postcard, from the striking Pole House up above, horses and their riders coming past at dawn and dusk, to people trotting down — surfboards under their arms — onto the sand from holiday homes tucked discreetly away in the bush. When the surf’s up, the water is not for the faint-hearted but it’s a great place for a swim when surfing is not the best.
Did you know: Fairhaven landmark the Pole House was designed by architect Frank Dixon and built in the 1970s. But the Pole House you’ll see if you visit Fairhaven this summer isn’t that house. The original was demolished in 2013 and replaced with a new house the same shape and size.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 7/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, drinking water, showers, toilets.
Wye River
Great Ocean Road, 18km southwest of Lorne
Great for: surfing, fishing, walking, wildlife
Why we love it: This pretty, small beach and town on the hinterland slopes is popular in summer. Even if you’re not staying long, it’s worth a stop off on your Great Ocean Road touring for a surf, a fish or a swim between the flags. Wye River is an ideal base from which to explore the beautiful Great Otway National Park.
Did you know: at least 98 homes were burned in the Christmas Day bushfire last year and small businesses love visitors to help the town’s recovery.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 7/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, drinking water, toilets, showers, playground.
Cape Paterson
Surf Beach Rd, Cape Paterson, 8km from Wonthaggi
Great for: swimming, fishing, surfing, snorkelling, diving, boating
Why we love it: It’s a relatively safe surf beach, so a great choice to try out those Christmas- present surfboards. Good as it is, keep pushing farther east on your South Gippsland trip to explore Bunurong Marine Park, which extends from Cape Paterson east to Inverloch and 1km offshore.
Did you know: If you launch a boat at Cape Paterson, you can drop in on secluded beaches along the 17km length of Bunurong Marine Park for out-of-this-world snorkelling.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 5/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, showers, barbecues, playground, camping, boat ramp.
Gunnamatta
Paradise Dr, Fingal
Mornington Peninsula
Great for: surfing, fishing, horseriding
Why we love it: Home to the best beach breaks on the Mornington Peninsula. They’re consistently good, too, because of the high swells and reefs. The deep rip holes and gutters, which makes this stretch of sand dangerous for all but the strongest swimmers, are what gives it it’s fishing cred, both for casting a line off the beach and the rocks.
Did you know: If the surf’s too heavy for safe swimming, you can hike to Rye on gravel tracks and along the beach. The return trip is 9km.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 8/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, drinking water, toilets.
Smiths Beach
Phillip Island, Smiths Beach Rd, off Back Beach Rd
Great for: surfing, swimming, dog walking, sandcastles, beach cricket, rockpools, fishing
Why we love it: This is a great choice for beginner surfers, with shallow bars producing a wide beach break. It’s pretty good for swimming, playing and even snorkelling when the tide is low. There’s plenty for the rest of the group to do while the surfer is learning to surf.
Did you know: There’s a surf school, plus a general store for an after-surf feed
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 5/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, showers
Norman Beach
Tidal River, Wilsons Promontory
A short walk from the Tidal River National Park visitor centre and campgrounds
Great for: camping, swimming, surfing, fishing, beach cricket
Why we love it: There’s big competition for campsites at Tidal River from Christmas to Easter each year and with good reason. Tidal River is the main activity centre for Wilsons Promontory National Park. When you’re camped there and off walking for the day, there’s nothing better than coming “home” for a dip in the surf or the clean — though brackish — river mouth at Norman Beach.
Did you know: There’s a ballot each year for campsites at Tidal River for five weeks from Christmas. A day trip to Norman Beach is definitely still worth it if you can’t camp right there.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 6/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, barbecues, playground, drinking water.
Lorne
Great for: swimming, surfing, windsurfing, boating, stand-up paddle boarding, camping
Why we love it: This is a resort town, so if coffee, gelato, restaurants, shops and bustle make your summer beach outings special, choose Lorne. It’s a great beginners’ beach for surf, so consider trying out those brand new surfboards or boogie boards or test out your open-water swimming talents from the pier to the Lorne Surf Lifesaving Club.
Did you know: Lorne Pier to Pub is the biggest open-water swim in the world. It’s on Saturday, January 7, 2017.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 5/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, showers, barbecues, playground, camping, boat ramp.
Walkerville
Walkerville Rd or Walkerville South Rd, Walkerville, 38km south of Inverloch
Great for: swimming, kayaking, fishing, walking, wildlife, snorkelling, rockpools
Why we love it: There’s something for almost everyone at this family-friendly South Gippsland secret. On a rough day you’ll see a few surfers, but mostly this beach is calm enough for stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking and a long swim out to Bird Rock. On scorchers, you can find shade between swims elsewhere along the beach. At high tide, walk the cliff track that connects Walkerville North and South.
Did you know: North-facing beaches are almost an impossibility in Victoria, if you think about our geography. But tuck yourself up on the sloping sands at Walkerville South on a cool, sunny afternoon and you’ll appreciate the sun.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 3/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, camping, boat ramp.
Mothers Beach
Esplanade, Mornington
57km south of Melbourne via the M1
Great for: swimming, stand-up paddle boarding, fishing
Why we love it: Mothers Beach is the protected, westernmost end of Mornington’s shoreline, which becomes Scout and Shire Hall beaches farther along. The pier is only a toddle away and this and the colourful bathing boxes nearby provide interest for little ones once everyone is tired of sandcastles. Fishing is best from the pier.
Did you know: Though Mothers Beach is the safest for swimming in the area, always watch for boat traffic.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 3/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, barbecues, playground, boat ramp
Altona Beach
The Esplanade, Altona
500m south of Altona Railway Station
Great for: clean sand, safe water play and swimming, sandcastles, walking
Why we love it: The sand is cleaned, seaweed removed frequently and the calm, shallow water makes it a real gem for families with young children. This bay beach is close to the central city and in the heart of Melbourne’s inner west. The 500m long Altona Pier dissects the beach and is a great place to promenade.
Did you know: The Altona Life Saving Club was formed in 1927
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 1/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, drinking water, toilets, barbecues, playground.
Half Moon Bay
The Esplanade, Black Rock, 3.3km along Beach Rd from Sandringham Station
Great for: swimming, fishing, sailing
Why we love it: Don’t be put off by its pint-size 350m. As its name suggests, it’s a pretty half-moon shape with a boat ramp, a long jetty, a surf lifesaving club and a yacht club. An easy day out at the beach in the suburbs. Fish off the pier or the northern end of the beach.
Did you know: Half Moon Bay Surf Life Saving Club was founded in 1910 and is the oldest in Victoria.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 3/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, drinking water, showers
St Kilda
Pier Rd and The Esplanade, St Kilda, 6km from Melbourne CBD
Great for: swimming, dining, walking, people watching
Why we love it: St Kilda has atmosphere. Visit any time of the day or evening in any weather and you’ll see locals and visitors out enjoying the fresh air. On a scorcher there are swimmers out cooling off until late at night. Take a dip, walk the paths, pull up a patch of grass under the palm trees in Catani Gardens and grab an ice cream.
Did you know: During the land boom of the 1880s, St Kilda became the playground of the wealthy, escaping the inland heat for sea breezes. You can still see many of the mansions from the boom years along the esplanade.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 3/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, drinking water, restaurants.
Eastern Beach
95 Eastern Beach Rd, Geelong
5 minute walk from Geelong city centre
Great for: swimming, boating, people watching, dining
Why we love it: It has the charm of an old-fashioned seaside holiday precinct with up-to-date facilities. There’s the massive shark-proof sea baths, including floating islands and big diving platform, bordered by an art deco boardwalk, plus a paddling pool, quaint character bollards, lush sloping lawns, palm trees and plenty of people having fun.
Did you know: Artist Jan Mitchell’s 104 timber bollards along the Geelong foreshore represent explorers, footballers, surf lifesavers, an indigenous family and the surveyor of Geelong.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 1/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, showers, barbecues, playground, children’s paddling, swimming enclosure, drinking water, showers, boat ramp, restaurants.
Sealer’s Cove,
Wilson’s Promontory, 9.5km walk on Telegraph Saddle to Sealer’s Cover track
Great for: walking, wildlife, swimming, fishing, remote camping
Why we love it: Turquoise water in a picture-perfect lagoon-like bay is so inviting after hiking all day through the national park bushland at Wilson’s Prom. There’s a maximum two-night stay and anyone who’s there has walked in, which means there are no cars and, if there are other campers there while you are, you’ve all achieved hiking greatness to get there.
Did you know: you can make a swim at Sealers Cove the reward in the middle of a massive day trip. Park at Mt Oberon, hike in, swim, rest, eat your lunch and hike out again.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 5/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: campground, toilets.
Ninety Mile Beach
Port Albert to Lakes Entrance, Seaspray Surf club is 35km from Sale
Great for: swimming, surfing, fishing, walking, camping, windsurfing
Why we love it: What’s not to love about 125km of golden sand? There’s a lifetime of exploring throughout the Gippsland Lakes, particularly if you can find a way onto a boat. There are surf clubs at Seaspray and Woodside, which make these spots the safest for swimming.
Did you know: It’s the third longest uninterrupted beach in the world, behind beaches in Brazil and Bangladesh.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 6/10; patrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, barbecues, camping
Great Ocean Walk
Including Johanna beach, Apollo Bay to Twelve Apostles
Great for: walking, wildlife, surfing
Why we love it: Experience more than 100km of the world’s most spectacular coast — on foot. Dramatic views, bushland, wildlife, serenity and top-class surf beaches along the way. You can go hardcore, carry your own gear and camp, or book in to comfy accommodation along the way. Star surf spots along the way include Johanna, to which the Bells Beach surf competitions are sometimes moved.
Did you know: You may be in the middle of nowhere, but there are lots of resources to help make your walk a great experience, include the Great Ocean Walk audio app with stories to accompany your walk.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: (Johanna) 8/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: (Johanna) parking, toilets, drinking water, camping
Squeaky Beach,
Wilsons Promontory, Squeaky Beach Rd, off Wilsons Promontory Rd
Great for: surfing, sandcastles, fishing
Why we love it: Oh the fun of running on sand that squeaks like that. This white, clean sand is beautiful to look at, too, and you can easily imagine you’re on a tropical island. It’s not the safest prom beach for swimming, but it’s one of the best surf spots.
Did you know: Scientists aren’t absolutely sure why some sand squeaks and some doesn’t, but they understand that squeaky sand is mostly fine, smooth, rounded particles of quartz with very little shell.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 6/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets.
East Cape
Cape Conran, East Cape Rd via Marlo and Orbost
Great for: swimming, beginner surfing, walking
Why we love it: East Cape is one point from which to explore Cape Conran Coastal Park in East Gippsland. Explore heathlands and rockpools, spot wildlife and find wilder beaches than East Cape. There are several day walks that begin at East Cape, including a 600km boardwalk that’s an accessible way to begin your explorations.
Did you know: Cape Conran has a rich indigenous heritage and there is plenty of interpretative signage along the day walks.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: 4/10; unpatrolled
What’s there: parking, toilets, drinking water, boat ramp.
Croajingolong National Park
Between Cann River and NSW border: Access at several points including Mallacoota, 22km from the Princes Hwy
Great for: kayaking, walking, camping, wildlife, fishing, windsurfing, sailing
Why we love it: Ever had the feeling you’re the only humans on Earth? Probably not often. That’s unless you’re a regular at one of the beaches along the Croajingolong coast. A beach trip to hike, camp and perhaps even kayak along the coast and up some of these isolated river is really getting away from it all.
Did you know: the Wilderness Coast Walk stretches 100km along the Croajingolong coast from Sydenham Inlet to Wonboyn in NSW. Walkers must book with Parks Victoria.
Beachsafe general beach hazard rating: no ratings, unpatrolled
What’s there: check with Parks Victoria; some campsites have toilets.
SECRET BEACHES
Want to feel like a local with inside knowledge? Or perhaps you like your beaches without another soul in sight. Here’s are a few to track down. Just don’t tell the world.
Kitty Miller Bay
251 Watts Rd, Ventnor
The surf beaches at Phillip Island get all the attention, but venture farther afield and you’ll find gems such as this one, complete with shipwreck. Good for swimming and, at high tide, surfing.
Blanket Bay
At the end of the Blanket Bay track
It takes some doing, but persist along this track and you’ll come to a small settlement of shacks and a camp area. The bay is part of the Otway National Park.
Bridgewater Bay
End of St Johns Wood Rd, Cape Bridgewater
This beautiful spot in far western Victoria is no secret to the locals. But if you’re not a local, it’s unlikely it’s on your radar. So now you know. Go on, venture west.
Bear Gully
Bear Gully Rd, Tarwin Lower
On the western side of Cape Liptrap, this little beach and basic campground is a great fishing spot and takeoff point for exploring the spectacular Cape Liptrap coast.
Trinculo
Shoreline Dr, 6km from Golden Beach
When there’s 125km of unbroken sand ahead of you, you need a landmark to aim for. Explore the Trinculo shipwreck on Ninety Mile Beach.