There was probably a time when a sashimi salad would have thrown Japanese food purists into a conniption. Some are probably shaking their heads about it right now. But that doesn't change the fact that these salads are some of the most popular items at casual and modern izakayas around the country and all over the world. The tender fish and fresh vegetables are perfectly offset by crispy shreds of wonton.

Sashimi salad 

About 2 litres oil, for deep frying

6 wonton wrappers

300g mixed sashimi (kingfish, tuna and salmon)

1 small red onion, peeled and very finely sliced

4 cups mixed salad leaves

1 cup finely shredded daikon

1 cup snow pea shoots

½ cup onion and garlic vinaigrette (see instructions below)

1. Heat the oil to 200C. Very thinly slice the wonton wrappers and deep-fry in batches for about one minute until crispy and lightly browned. Drain well.

2. Toss the sashimi, onion, salad leaves, daikon, snow pea shoots and about half the dressing together. Place in a mound on a plate and top with the remaining dressing and the wonton crisps.

Serves 2

Onion and garlic vinaigrette

The onion adds body to this dressing, helping it stick to salad ingredients, the pungency of raw onion that makes you cry when you cut it gives the dressing a lovely gentle spiciness.

1 small onion (preferably white, but you can use a brown onion)

2 cloves garlic

2 tbsp castor sugar

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup rice vinegar

¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

½ cup grapeseed oil

1. Finely grate the onion and garlic on a Japanese grater. If you don't have a Japanese grater, mince them very finely with a knife. Combine with the sugar, soy sauce, rice vinegar and pepper, and whisk lightly to combine and dissolve the sugar. You don't want to emulsify this dressing as it may become too thick. Add the oil all at once and rest in the fridge for a few hours to mellow. Shake before use.

Even tofu sceptics will enjoy this snack. Photo: Supplied

Agedashi tofu

Agedashi tofu has converted countless tofu-haters into tofu-lovers. The slightly crisp, slightly sticky fried coating that becomes silky in the slightly sweet steeping liquid is partnered by some sharp and spicy toppings. It makes you hungry just thinking about it.

¼ cup finely grated daikon

300g silken tofu

about 2 litres oil, for deep-frying

¼ cup potato starch, or cornflour

1 tbsp fine bonito flakes

2 thin spring onions, finely sliced

½ tsp finely grated ginger

½ tsp shichimi togarashi, to serve

Steeping liquid 

⅓ cup bonito stock (see instructions below)

1½ tbsp mirin

1½ tbsp soy sauce

1. For the steeping liquid, bring the stock to a simmer in a small saucepan and add the mirin and soy sauce. Return to the simmer, then remove from the heat.

2. Place the finely grated daikon into a fine sieve to remove excess liquid.

3. To drain the tofu, turn it out of the packet onto a double layer of kitchen paper on a plate or board. Fold the paper to cover the top of the tofu and place a second plate on top. Allow to stand for 15 minutes as the weight of the top plate presses down the tofu. Trim the edges and cut into four blocks.

4. Heat the oil to 180C. Carefully roll each of the tofu blocks in potato starch and fry for three to four minutes until puffed and crisp. Drain on a wire rack.

5. Arrange the tofu cubes in a deep bowl and place piles of the daikon, bonito flakes, spring onion and ginger on top. Pour the steeping liquid into the bowl around the edges, and sprinkle over a little of the shichimi togarashi.

Serves 4

Bonito stock 

This stock is made by infusing water with the taste of dried bonito flakes.

750ml water

20g bonito flakes

1. Bring the water to a rolling boil in a small saucepan. Add the bonito flakes and boil for two seconds. Turn off the heat and allow the bonito flakes to sink to the bottom of the pot without stirring. Carefully skim any scum from the surface of the stock then strain the stock through a muslin-lined sieve. Cool to room temperature then keep in the fridge for up to a week.

Makes 750ml

Recipes and photos from The Zen Kitchen by Adam Liaw (Hachette, RRP $49.99)