This title will always be disputed. But I think Pieter Bruegel's 'Tower of Babel' must be one of the candidates for the crown. I had only ever seen reproductions until last week, when I finally managed to look at the original, which is rather surprisingly in Vienna (though I believe there is another version in Rotterdam). From the very first time I saw it, perhaps 45 years ago, I have been haunted by this picture without properly knowing why.
First of all it is an extremely beautiful composition, a vast and satisfying landscape, dominated by the tremendous, dream-like, never-to-be-finished tower and crammed with tiny detail which is actually quite hard to see when you get close to the original, for over-sensitive alarms shriek if you step too near to the canvas. The room in which it is displayed is almost never quiet, because so many visitors, overcome with the desire to look closely at it, unintentionally set off the electronic squawk. A tactful human guard would be a better idea, I think. Or free opera glasses on loan, so that you could study the detail from a safe distance.
Next it is full of imagination. Bruegel, in the 16th century, has conjured out of his own mind the size and shape and possible design of a tower about which the Bible says almost nothing. It is quite unlike what we should think of today, in the age of reinforced concrete and skyscrapers. It is also quite believable, rising out of a seaport city of Bruegel's time, (he began life with an 'h' in his name, but later dropped it, so I shall do the same) enormous but otherwise completely in tune with its architecture.
It is, finally, grimly satirical. Look in the foreground and you can see the richly-dressed King Nimrod, attended by his flatterers, courtiers and civil servants, while the stone-masons fall to the ground and grovel before him. Yet we know that at any minute the curse will fall, everyone will be gabbling gibberish at everyone else as great blocks of stone fall from the wildly-swinging cranes. The tower will fail and so begin at that instant to crumble, the lovely city at its foot will presumably become first chaotic, then bankrupt and finally a desolate ruin, where the wind shall blow over it, and the place of it shall know it no more.
Why does this story persist, and continue to enchant and perplex us? How can a few vague verses in the book of Genesis have given rise to this potent, thoughtful and instantly understandable masterpiece about human vanity?
Some of my correspondents will no doubt write in to tell me that the Genesis story is literal truth. That is their view and they are entitled to it. We were not there, and nor were they, and my experience is that people believe what it suits them to believe. My own view is that it is much more powerful as a parable of human arrogance, and that this is why it lasts, and why it makes such a powerful painting, drawing people to see it from all over the civilised world. It is, in short, that rare thing, a faithful rendering of an absolute and eternal truth.
The more we seek to be as gods, the more we end up failing and instead becoming the lowest savages. In some ways, the higher our aims, the lower we sink - language, of course, being the thing which most clearly separates us from the beasts. The Soviet experiment, with its limitless slaughter, was conceived by men who believed they could begin the world over again and make it better. No doubt Einstein and his friends had noble intentions when they urged Franklin Roosevelt to exploit nuclear fission for warlike purposes. Yet it ended with the mass-killing by heat, blast and radiation of thousands of civilians. And let us hope that really is the end of it.
The same goes for most of the great projects to remake the world in a Godlike fashion - empires, civilising missions, the Iraq war, and now the indefensible Afghan war as well.
What has all this to do with the Labour conference, or Gordon Brown? Very little, directly, I suppose, except that the whole time I was in Brighton I would have preferred to sit and talk about this overpowering picture, and the others that I saw, than to do what I actually did and discuss politics, an increasingly narrow and self-obsessed subject composed of nine parts gossip to one part philosophy, and that on good days.
This is partly because I am now close to completing the book about the Rage Against God which has been eating my every spare moment for months, and such thrilling affirmations of faith and understanding are encouraging as I rip up or eviscerate early drafts, or falter at the last chapter. Flemish painting, whether it is the stillness and serenity of Van Eyck or the direct, ferocious realism of Bruegel, speaks more directly to me than the lovely but often rather distant and stiff religious art of the Italians. Who but a Flemish artist could have painted the scourging of Christ as a 16th century scene, with one of the jailers actually aiming his foot at Jesus's groin, while his comrades mock and punch Our Lord and another, smirking, prepares the crown of thorns? Perhaps the violent and cruel history of this part of the world made suffering easier to understand.
Indirectly, the person who is interested in such things seems to me to be better qualified to have ideas about the future of the country than the person who is not interested in painting, or music, or architecture. Politicians of the recent past, such as Denis Healey, Roy Jenkins, Enoch Powell and no doubt several others in all parties whose interest existed though we never learned about it, read great books, knew history, cared about painting and architecture, travelled in their own country and in others. You may say that this didn't do us much good. I'd say that they'd have been much worse without the hinterland. Many had also experienced war, though as Nevil Shute argued in his recently-reissued, rather touching and (as always) enjoyable novel 'Requiem for a Wren', it may be that the wartime generation often enjoyed wartime too much, and in some cases even secretly hoped for another war in the hope of recapturing the exhilaration of comradeship and shared adversity which are extraordinarily pleasurable.
The war also comes to mind as you travel (as I did) by train down from Berlin to Vienna, passing through rebuilt Dresden, now sparkling with renewal, and stopping on the way in Prague. Just as was the case 150 years ago, you never really cease to be in German-dominated territory. But you must still use a different currency in Prague, though change left over from Berlin is once again useful in Vienna.
I am taken to task for allegedly falling back into default position over Neville Chamberlain's betrayal of the Czechs. Not really. There isn't any question that Chamberlain did betray Czechoslovakia. The revisionist view of the war doesn't dispute that. It questions whether Chamberlain, or Britain, should have been involved in this episode in the first place. Chamberlain's loss of reputation came from two things - his pretence of being Prague's friend and ally, when he had no power to help that country, and his childlike belief in Hitler's word. Sitting by and doing nothing (except quietly building up our defences) would have been both more honest and more effective, and wouldn't have made a ha'porth of difference to the fate of the Czechs.
In Berlin I also revisited the Soviet war memorial at Treptow, in a large and enjoyably melancholy park in the far East of the city. It is a powerful work of art in its own right, not least because it lies on top of a mass grave of Soviet soldiers who died in the taking of the city, and I suspect that people don't like being moved by it and so dismiss it as 'kitsch'. Well, I am always moved by sacrifice and loss in war, however awful the leaders were who caused it. Real men, advancing into real bullets, seem to me to deserve a moment of remembrance whoever they were, though I wouldn't myself lay a wreath (as Ronald Reagan did) at a Nazi war cemetery. There's a choking moment in Gore Vidal's fictional 'Lincoln' where the President, by then very tired and burdened by the deaths for which he is responsible, visits some Confederate prisoners of war and acknowledges their courage in their own, wrong but romantic cause. I am sure this is true. I have never had any doubt that the Gettysburg Address honours the valour of both sides in that battle, as anyone must who knows what happened (and Michael Shaara's historical novel 'The Killer Angels' is a fine description). The Treptow monument, unusually, shows atrocities against civilians in some of its relief sculptures, and also displays several long quotes from Stalin himself, which must have caused the Soviet and East German authorities problems in the years after he was denounced.
In Prague, by comparison, a huge empty plinth stands over the city where once there was a giant statue of Stalin. This was actually blown up by the Communist authorities (it took several goes, spread over several days, and photographs exist of the explosions gradually reducing the thing to dust) after Khrushchev's secret speech ended the Stalin cult.
Prague also boasts what is as far as I know the only Museum of Communism, a small but rather good and witty collection of mementoes of that ghastly era, including sagging shelves of unattractive consumer goods and a school classroom crammed with class-war propaganda. There is also film, some of it heartbreaking, of Czechs standing up to authority in the streets of Prague. Anyone who thinks the Czechs are somehow soft and pliable, or who has forgotten that Communism deployed brutal muscle to guard itself from the people, would benefit by seeing this. Anyone who goes to Prague and doesn't see the Museum (which cheekily advertises itself as being between the Casino and the McDonalds) will not even begin to understand why this city is worth visiting in the first place.
Next week I hope to send a rather more political despatch from within Fortress Cameron in Manchester, where I plan to harangue a meeting hosted by the Bruges Group on Monday afternoon. This is within the security cordon, so those without passes will not be able to attend.