On a broad bend on the River Danube, Budapest is one of Europe’s most handsome cities. It’s made up of two ancient settlements that weren’t connected by a bridge until 1849, so each side retains its distinctness.
On the west bank is hilly and Medieval Buda, while Pest to the east is a flat ground with grand boulevards, formal parks and imposing squares. The city has history in spades, cultural gravitas aplenty, a distinctive cuisine and seductive night-life.
Whether you have one, two or three days in Budapest, Richard Green shares some great suggestions on how to spend them.
DAY ONE
Visit Hungary’s glorious neo-Gothic Parliament Building on the Buda bank of the Danube. It’s extremely ornate outside, and a tour inside uncovers the Holy Crown of Hungary (a Byzantine treasure that crowned upwards of 50 kings), the Grand Staircase and theatrical House of Magnates.
From here, walk across the Chain Bridge — so called because of the giant chains that suspend the roadway — and ride the 1870-built funicular up to Castle Hill.
The 13th Century fortifications protect the gigantic Royal Palace — which now houses the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum — and Sandor Palace (official residence of the Hungarian President). Set cameras to panorama mode at the Fisherman’s Bastion, a Disneyesque lookout with fabulous views across to Pest.
CROATIA’S CAPITAL IN THREE DAYS
Pause at the Ruszwurm cafe, which has been serving superb strudels and pastries since 1827. The glass and mahogany display counter is a treat in itself, but a street away is Matthias Church with its astonishingly ornate altar, stained glass Rose Window and extravagant tomb of King Bela III.
Wander the cobbled lanes and find the intriguing Golden Eagle Pharmacy Museum, the Museum of Telephones, Museum of Music History, and the newly opened House of Houdini, which showcases props that once belonged to the Budapest born escapologist.
Pest is best for night-life, and buzzing right now is the Gozsdu Courtyard in the old Jewish Quarter. Seven buildings and their courtyards have been transformed into a cracking jumble of restaurants and bars. Spíler is a groovy gastropub with burgers, Hungarian classics and many craft beers.
DAY TWO
Stroll along pedestrianised Váci Street — the social artery of the city and a swanky thoroughfare brimming with shops, restaurants and bars.
Then hop on the Metro to the Franz Liszt Memorial Museum, housed in the first floor apartment where Hungary’s most famous composer spent the final years of his life. Free recitals take place in the next-door Art Nouveau academy.
At number 39 is the sumptuous Alexandra Café where you can have coffee and cakes in the glittering Art Nouveau hall that was once a casino.
At number 60, the House of Terror is a new museum that pulls no punches in revealing the horrors of Hungary’s Nazi occupation and Soviet suppression. Poignantly, the building was formerly the HQ of the Nazi Part and the Communist era secret police.
Continue along Andrássy Avenue to Heroes’ Square. The column and statues were part of the city’s 1896 Millennium legacy to celebrate a thousand years since the arrival of the Magyar tribes.
Behind in the City Park is the Vajdahunyad Castle. It’s delightful, but looks mishmash because it was built for the 1896 Millennium to blend four architectural periods into one building. The park has a boating lake in summer and an outdoor ice-skating rink in winter.
If you visit just one thermal bath while in the city — and you really should — make it the neo-Baroque Szechenyi Thermal Bath at the park’s centre. The yellow painted edifice opened its doors in 1913 and with 18 indoor and outdoor pools, is the largest medicinal baths in Europe.
A short stroll away is Robinson, an eye-catching restaurant on its own tiny island, with large terraces and slick service. Hungarian-Mediterranean influenced cuisine.
Round off the day in a Ruin Bar; these on trend drinking holes are set in disused old Communist era buildings and have an infectiously convivial vibe. Best of the bunch is Szimpla Kert — a multicoloured melange of kitsch with mismatched furniture, random artworks and Trabant car converted into seats.
DAY THREE
The most scenic tram ride in Budapest is route #2. Board at Jászai Mari Square and sit on the right for the best views across the Danube to the Castle District. Alight at the immensely grand Central Market Hall to sample Hungarian specialities — like lángos (deep fried flatbread), a paprika spiced sausage called debrecener, and gingerbread.
A gentle afternoon option is a Legenda cruise from nearby dock No 7. The return cruise that includes 90 minutes free time on Margaret Island — a 2.5 kilometre long car-free island comprised of gardens, fountains, and the modern Palatinus outdoor baths.
Hungary’s Communist era statues have been rounded up relegated to Momento Park, a 10-kilometre taxi ride from the city. It’s surreal to see Marx and Engels, Lenin and Stalin striking earnest poses in a marooned in field.
Round off in contemporary surroundings and dinner at Laci!Konyha! — where locally inspired dishes are conjured with a modern twist. For a finale rooftop cocktail it has to be the half acre of wood decked roof bar that is ‘360’ — expect crisp service and a cool vibe.
This story by Escape’s travel experts is published here in partnership with Qatar Airways.
