With so many small bars popping up on the drinking landscape of Perth, WAtoday journalist decided to go "behind bars" to soak up this burgeoning scene.
To make it an even playing field, we have our own (and slightly unorthodox) rating system.
![399 Bar on William Street.](/web/20160410212305im_/http://www.watoday.com.au/content/dam/images/g/k/v/l/p/2/image.related.articleLeadwide.620x349.gkvlds.png/1447215426994.jpg)
It's no surprise that half the city is cramming into small bars on rooftops, laneways, old warehouses and rundown buildings to swill craft beers, cocktails and wines.
And despite hipsters claiming the credit for the small bar revolution, the drinking culture of Perth was transformed after liquor licensing laws were relaxed a few years back.
The funky interior of 399 Bar.
When a bearded barman sauntered up to me at the 399 Bar in Northbridge, I braced myself for an avalanche of jive-talking, hipster lingo. I even decided that if he tried to fist-bump me and call me bro, I would grab him from behind the bar and hurl him onto the footpath. Not really, but you get my curmudgeonly view of hipsters.
The barman, however, was welcoming and charming in a Mr Darcy kind of way. He set the scene for my decidedly unthreatening foray into small bars.
The yummy cheese platter at 399 Bar.
Tosser Factor
There was a wonderful mix of hobos and office workers and the only beard on show was that of the barman. The stylistic trademarks of hipsters were nowhere to be seen. No skinny jeans or cotton spandex leggings, fixed-gear bikes, vintage flannel or fake eyeglasses. And nobody was playing backgammon or checkers by candlelight while reading Norman Mailer. Phew. Hipster level was low.
Food For Thought
There isn't a lot of food on offer, but there is a playful snack menu for those a tad bit hungry. We had the hard cheese platter, which included about a loaf of Turkish bread, grilled chorizo and a spicy chutney dip. For $19, I thought the platter was perfecto for two folk swilling on some brews. And if you feel like something a bit more stodgy, you can order food from the nearby cafes and restaurants and eat it at the bar.
Quirky Artefact
Thankfully the beer came served in an old-fashioned beer mug and best of all the barman asked if we wanted the glass chilled. The cocktail didn't come in a plastic beaker or a recycled jam jar. The almost-chic of the interior is charming and welcoming and the big carpeted booths gives the feeling you're drinking in a '70s bordello. The laid-back, pint-size boozer entices punters with its dark, seductive atmosphere. There is a gritty feel to the bar, without the fear of drenching your sneakers in beer-soaked carpet.
Signature Drink
The bar doesn't boast a signature drink, but it can lay claim to an excellent array of craft beers, wines and spirits. The spirits get rotated every week to keep punters on their toes. And the harried bartenders know the difference between an Australian Red Ale and a Jamaican Red Ale.
Bogan Beer Factor
I didn't spy any "bogan beers". Even the retro froth Emu Export (which tastes like camel urine) was a no show. To be honest, the craft beer craze has seen the face of beer changed irrevocably over the last few years, so why drink crappy brews?
Location, Location
Unlike a lot of the new small bars in Perth, you don't need a map or an app to find the 399 Bar. Just a waltz down William Street, heading away from the city and you'll find the bar nestled in amongst a few nosheries.
Price Gouge
I would give it 7/10. You expect to pay $11 for a craft beer and I thought Rogers for $7.50 was decent. The "Blood and Sand" cocktail was $18, which is a bit rich, but it had a kick like a mule so I can live with that.
Overall, 399 Bar is a sensational small bar.
17/20
- 0-4 – Scraping the bottom of the barrel
- 5-9 – Like a pony of midstrength
- 10-15 – Worth another shot
- 16-20 – Make this your new local. Now
399 Bar
399 William Street
Opening hours
- 4pm -12am Monday -Saturday
- 4pm –10pm Sunday
(Open public holidays except Good Friday and Christmas Day)
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