Harbourside Hacienda demands attention, though not always for the right reasons

• Hacienda
• Address: 61 Macquarie St, Sydney (inside the Pullman Quay Grand)
• id="U6136382475870yH" style="text-indent:0;">Phone: 9256 4000
• id="U6136382475870CH" style="text-indent:0;">Web: haciendasydney.com.au

But every now and then, there’s a place that demands to be attended during the daytime. Hacienda, the new bar at the Pullman Quay Grand, is one such establishment.

The revamped interior — think classic Miami in pastel shades with botanical flourishes — comes courtesy of Applejack Hospitality, the same crew responsible for Bondi Hardware, The Butler and SoCal. The bar is beautiful enough to warrant a visit as the sun shines, but it’s the view over the Harbour, perched above the madding crowd of Circular Quay, that demands attention.

The only thing that can pull focus? The cocktail list. Heavy on the rum, the drinks make the perfect excuse for settling into the rose quartz velvet couches for an hour or two.

While the balance of flavours falls on the sweet side with the Cubano Punch ($21) and Old Faithful ($17) we order, they’re still very drinkable, so don’t be surprised if you find you’ve “accidentally” ordered a second or third round.

There is also a concise wine list, which includes offerings from Spain, Argentina, and the US alongside local varietals. The beers are less surprising, and come from Australian, European, US and Mexican breweries.

And while the decor and cocktails declare themselves a fan of Cuban-American relations, the menu draws more broadly from Latin America.

But the dishes we try are a little confounding. The Empty Empanadas ($16) are indeed empty, save for a smattering of beef in each and served with an egg guacamole on the side.

And the fish tortilla ($18); there’s no other way to describe this: they’re a travesty. The poor fillings have been squashed inside a sandwich press, which makes a mockery of the battered flathead and slaw underneath the tortilla.

It’s hard to imagine, even in a Tex-Mex stoner haze of student household, the ingredients being treated with less respect — the result is an unappealing, soggy mess. More successful, however, are the jamon croquettes ($18) and the Cuban Reuben ($18). Although the latter comes served in a Cuban cigar box, a little more generosity and love with the fillings would elevate the sandwich beyond its fancy presentation.

So while the overall impression of the Hacienda is that style has won over substance, the elements are all in place. They just need to pay attention to the detail, so that the food and drinks can match the stunning view.