How To: Install Illuminated Door Sills (For Cheap) OEM Prices for the Door Sills are kind of ridiculous... $252 for the whole Kit! On the other hand, if you buy the parts separately, Front $40x2, Rear, $16x2, that's $112 ($140 difference). What exactly is that $140 you might ask? - Instruction Manual (which you can get off the internet) - Free - Two extension cables with in-line Fuses - $15 - Bridge Padding - $5 - Alcohol Pad - $1 So yeah, you're basically wasting $120 bucks for nothing. And so, this is the installation guide for installing Illuminated OEM Door Sills... without the kit. What You Need: - OEM Illuminated Door Sills + Rear Sills - 18-22 gauge Cable - Inline Fuse Holders - Wire Cutter / Wire Stripper - Electrical Connectors (Optional if you want to make it a clean job) - Small Knife / Razor Blade (If you want to splitters) - Masking Tape or Painters Tape - Electrical Tape - Water / Cleaner + 70% Rubbing Alcohol Pad or Cleaner - Microfiber Towel Time Needed: - 45mins -2 Hours depending on how OCD you are with your electrical work. Step 1: Testing Driver Side: - Remove Under Dash Cover - Disconnect Cables to LDW / Traction Control - Remove the Bluetooth Controller - Identify and Unplug the Door Sill harness (Plugged into a dummy holder, and is electrical taped to other cable bundles near the Driver MICU) - Plug in Illuminated Door Sills - To check LED works - Close the door - To check LED shuts of with Dome Light Passenger Side: - Remove door sill cover - Remove door weather stripping - Remove Kick Panel - Remove Under Glove Box Panel - Identify and Unplug the Door Sill harness (Plugged into a dummy holder, and is electrical taped to other cable bundles near the Driver MICU) * Located behind the cable bundles - See video for best way of access / removal. - Plug in Illuminated Door Sills - To check LED works - Close the door - To check LED shuts of with Dome Light Step 2: Wiring: - Mock fit the door sills onto the driver / passenger sill area, notice the cable length and slack (decide how you want to run your cables now, especially if you're like me and intend to tap into them for other circuits). - If no extension is necessary (driver side), you may still want to install a in-line fuse blade (I don't think it is necessary, but with electrical, it is better to be safe than sorry - I didn't do it for this install, but have in-line fuses being shipped right now). - Cut and strip the OEM cable, I suggest you mock run the cable first so you don't have the new connecting areas running near clip holes, or moving parts. - Cut and Strip 2 feet worth of 18-22 gauge cable. - Connect the cables using Electrical connectors and electrical tape. * The weather molding should protect the cable run, but you do want the connections to be as tight and weather proof as possible. Step 3: Cleaning: - Clean Door Sill area with water / cleaner, wipe clean - Clean again with Alcohol just prior to installation Step 4: Installation: - Mock Fit the sills (should align with clip holes), and using painters tape to mask the sill fitting on the sides. - Peel off the center 3M tape section - Peel 1/4 of the other 3M tape section, fold at 90 degrees into tabs so that they are visible when placed. - Gently position Sill against masking tape area, once the fit is good, hold down with light force, and pull at the 3M tape you have exposed, this will allow full contact of the adhesive. - Use electrical tape, to tape the weather molding area where the LED cable will run. - Tape wrap the led cable that goes over the molding area - Secure the section with additional electrical tape to protect it from further abrasion. - Run the cable to the OEM sill connectors under the dash - Clean up your cable slack and tape down accordingly. * If you plan to do additional electrical work, don't zip tie. Step 5: Re-install - Put everything back, and post pictures in the forums. - Feel good that you just saved over $100 on parts, and much more for labor to install these sills.

• published: 18 Sep 2014
• views: 4