HOW TO REPLACE DRUM BRAKE SHOES+CHANGE WHEEL CYLINDER IN DETAIL|DIY FULL REAR SERVICE FIX+ADJUST

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• published: 11 Dec 2016
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Today I’m showing how I replace the brake shoes and wheel brake cylinder of the drum brakes on my Dodge Ram 1500. This is an 11 inch drum brake on a 9 1/4 inch axle used on a Dodge / Chrysler / Jeep and others. The can be done with standard hand tools you already have and a brake line wrench. I noticed that there were oily residues on the inner side of the rear wheel, most of the time this indicates a leaky wheel cylinder. If you have this leaking brake fluid issue in the drum brake, then the brake shoes must also be replaced. The drum is a little rusted on, but a few light taps with the hammer help. Now I can simply pull the drum off. Inside the brake, everything is covered with brake dust and fluid. I insert the new cylinder and connect the brake line fitting. I put anti-seize copper paste on the threads before I insert the cylinder screws. Now tighten the brake line fitting. I take the cap off of the bleed screw and wait until the brake fluid comes out. Now the brake fluid has filled the wheel cylinder and the air has been pushed out. However, a later bleeding of the brake line may be necessary. I close the bleed screw by tightening it and put the cap back on. Now it’s about cleaning the support plate. A wire brush is helpful to remove the surface rust. I was able to get the adjuster screw out with the help of some WD40, because a few threads were rusty. I rinse the adjuster screw sleeve with oil. Then I brush the threads and rinse it off with oil. As a corrosion protection, I apply anti-seize copper paste to the thread. Now the screw is very easy to turn. Also, it’s very important that the toothed wheel is fully intact, otherwise automatic brake adjustment doesn’t work. If you have any doubts, the component should be replaced. With sandpaper, I smooth down the spots where the brake shoes slide on the support plate. Clean it off and then put copper paste on as corrosion protection and lubricant. These brake parts I would like to reuse again, but you can also replace them. I clean all the parts and put the links back into the cylinder. Some oil makes it easier. The notches should be vertical.Here we have the new brake shoes. In this case the surface of the front brake pad is a little smaller. I set the adjuster screw and the lower shoe spring on the new brake shoes. The adjuster lever has some moving parts which I treat with copper paste. When applying the new brake shoes, the parking brake lever must be attached to the front brake shoe. The links should fit exactly into the notches on the brake shoes. The front brake shoe I now attach with the corresponding hold-down components. To do this, I put the spring on and insert the pin from behind through the support plate. The adjuster plate fell off before so i am putting it back on. Then I put the shoe guide on and connect the adjuster lever with the adjuster spring. Now the hold-down components of the rear brake shoe can be put on. The adjuster lever must be equipped with the lever spring. It easily clips into place. Now the parking brake strut and spring can be put back. I put it in with the spring end first to the corresponding notch of the rear brake shoe. Then on the other side the brake strut has to hold the front brake shoe and the parking brake lever. I ensure that the cylinder link is guided exactly into the corresponding notch of the front brake shoe. Now the return springs can be reinstalled. First, I put in the red one, which belongs to the front brake shoe. The shorter white spring belongs to the rear and hooks onto the adjuster spring. To make sure the springs don’t slip off I bend the ends down with pliers. Now all the brake parts are reinstalled. I make sure that nothing is missing and that all parts are sitting correctly. I clean the brake pads with brake cleaner since dirt, oil and copper paste could have touched the surface during assembly. I also clean the inside of the brake drum with brake cleaner. The wire brush helps to remove surface rust. The use of sandpaper roughens the surface and provides better braking performance. Now the drum can be put back on and this type of drum is tightened down together with the wheel and lug nuts. Now I only need to remove the jack stand and I’m done. The drum brake shown here now adjusts itself with the adjuster screw when the brake is used. Be careful, you might have to hit the brake pedal a couple times until the brakes are fully adjusted properly. While adjusting you can hear the toothed wheel clicking in the drum. When it doesn’t click anymore your drum brakes should be fully adjusted. For some brakes you have to use your emergency brake to adjust the drum brakes. I hope this video helps you. Feel free to check out more detailed repair videos on my channel. Thank you for watching and until next time.