- published: 17 May 2011
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The cochineal (/kɒtʃᵻˈniːl/ koch-i-NEEL or /ˈkɒtʃᵻniːl/ KOCH-i-neel; Dactylopius coccus) is a scale insect in the suborder Sternorrhyncha, from which the natural dye carmine is derived. A primarily sessile parasite native to tropical and subtropical South America as well as Mexico and Arizona, this insect lives on cacti in the genus Opuntia, feeding on plant moisture and nutrients. These insects are found on the paddles of prickly pear cacti, then are brushed off and dried.
The insect produces carminic acid that deters predation by other insects. Carminic acid, typically 17-24% of dried insects' weight, can be extracted from the body and eggs, then mixed with aluminium or calcium salts to make carmine dye, also known as cochineal. Today, carmine is primarily used as a colorant in food and in lipstick.
The carmine dye was used in Central America in the 15th century for coloring fabrics and became an important export good during the colonial period. After synthetic pigments and dyes such as alizarin were invented in the late 19th century, natural-dye production gradually diminished. Health fears over artificial food additives, however, have renewed the popularity of cochineal dyes, and the increased demand has made cultivation of the insect profitable again, with Peru being the largest exporter. Some towns in the Mexican state of Oaxaca are still working in handmade textiles using this cochineal.
Award-winning Museum educator Bob Alderink reveals the secret ingredient that gives your strawberry yogurt (and many other foods) a pleasing rosy hue. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cochineal for more information about cochineal bugs.
Natural Fabric Dyes - A skilled Quechua woman demonstrating the use of cochineal beetles and other natural ingredients in dyeing wool. They are skilled weavers using traditional wooden hand looms and craft out beautifully weaved blankets, scarves, shawls, sweaters, beanies and babies' clothes.
The Zapotec have been using cochineal to dye their textiles for over 1000 years. In this video, Porfirio Gutiérrez and his family show the techniques that have been handed down to them by their ancestors.
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This video shows my process of making Carmine Lake pigment with Cochineal insects. This color is generally referred to as Carmine Lake, However the word originally used in Nahuatl for the insects and the color is Nocheztli.
Learn more about the World Science Festival: http://www.worldsciencefestival.com/ Explore color through science, art history, and the Met's collection. This event is held in conjunction with the World Science Festival taking place in New York City this weekend. Speakers are Elena Phipps, textile historian and Barbara Berrie, conservation scientist, National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C. Lecture by Elena Phipp, Textile Historian