For every perfect wave, there are a dozen stolen chances; the swell missed by a day, the one paddle too few – or the ride that went horribly wrong.

By June 2007 it had been ten years since the last serious scientific look at these storms. The damage suffered that month made it clear how much we still didn’t know about these weather systems, let alone about how they might behave in the future.

Matt Kleiner's latest clip is a directors cut from a trip earlier this year to a cold, isolated and draining pointbreak, edited to some great music.