Edition: U.S. / Global

Wednesday, September 21, 2016

Food

A Howard Johnson’s in Queens in 1940. The restaurant chain pioneered franchising as an expansion plan, strategically opening along highways and ushering in the era of big fast food.
Charles Fenno Jacobs/The LIFE Images Collection, via Getty Images

A Howard Johnson’s in Queens in 1940. The restaurant chain pioneered franchising as an expansion plan, strategically opening along highways and ushering in the era of big fast food.

From HoJo’s to the Four Seasons, a Yale professor picks the groundbreakers in America’s culinary past.

In Julia Child’s Provençal Kitchen

Our reporter goes to the South of France to cook in Julia Child’s kitchen — and to shop, eat and learn in her footsteps.

Restaurant Review

At Günter Seeger NY, a Star Chef Resurfaces, Confidence Intact

Nine years after closing his acclaimed restaurant in Atlanta, Mr. Seeger aims to conquer Manhattan.

Recipes from Julia & Julia

Read about Julia Child’s old house in Provence, then make salmon with pepper-studded barbecue sauce.

Dorothy Cann Hamilton, Founder of French Culinary Institute, Dies in Crash at 67

Ms. Hamilton, a big influence on New York chefs, was driving in Nova Scotia, where she had a home.

Classic Rosh Hashana Desserts Get a Professional Upgrade

The pastry chef Alex Levin remakes his grandmother’s traditional holiday desserts: honey cake and fruit tart.

‘Shake. Stir. Sip.’ Takes the Math Out of Mixing Cocktails

A new collection of recipes calls for equal measures of each ingredient.

Off the Menu

Megu and Its Japanese Menu Return to New York

Other restaurant openings include the John Lamb and Harold’s Meat & Three.

Hungry City

Filipino Food Arrives, in a Taco, at 2nd City and Swell Dive

Two New York restaurants attest to the new cachet of an underdog cuisine.

A Good Appetite

Roasted Figs and Chicken for a Sweet (and Savory) New Year

This easy yet elegant sheet-pan recipe is fitting for a Rosh Hashana celebration.

Wine School

With Albariño, or Any Wine, Don’t Forget the Context

Every wine has its own character, but almost as important is how it reacts to food, temperature and surroundings.

City Kitchen

Rice, My Mother’s Way

It was company fare, made with frozen spinach, Parmesan and cooked Uncle Ben’s. A from-scratch version still captures its charms.

Just Cook!

Recipes for the hardest day of the week.

After a Long Wait, Mah-Ze-Dahr Bakery Gets a Shop

In the West Village, lush tarts, cookies and cakes from a former investment banker.

Two Cookbooks Offer Fresh Approaches for Rosh Hashana

“The Gefilte Manifesto” and “Le Marais” go well beyond the usual brisket or roast chicken.

Front Burner

Soup Dumplings With an Expert’s Touch

A former math professor runs the kitchen at Drunken Dumpling in the East Village.

Bagels Get a Schmear, Salmon and a Stand for Serving

Eli’s Market offers a dozen mini-bagels in a way that makes holiday entertaining easier.

Discussing Kosher Barbecue and Other Jewish-Southern Foods

A panel on the topic, and some sample dishes, at the Museum of Jewish Heritage.

Guatemalan Cotton for the Kitchen, and the Benefit of Others

Napkins, tablecloths are other wares go on sale Tuesday to benefit communities and fight poverty.

‘Five-Second Rule’ for Food on Floor Is Untrue, Study Finds

Researchers concluded that no matter how fast you pick up food that falls on the floor, you will pick up bacteria with it.

Shaken and Stirred

Bill Murray, Brooklyn Bartender

As a favor to his son, the restaurant owner Homer Murray, the film star and folk hero serves up shots — and drinks them, too.

City Kitchen

The Lure of the Fish Cake

Made with fresh cod, bread crumbs and green herbs, these fish cakes are lighter than the typical.

How Tech Companies Disrupted Silicon Valley’s Restaurant Scene

Restaurants in Palo Alto are increasingly struggling as rents soar and workers are hired away by the corporate cafeterias of behemoths like Google.

The Spicy Spoils of China’s Boom, at Hao Noodle and Tea

In Greenwich Village, skillfully updating classic dishes.

Umbria, Italy’s Best-Kept Culinary Secret, Is Budding

Spared the earthquake’s worst damage, the province is trying to spread the word about its legendary cooking, produce and salumi.

New York Gets a New Ratings Service for Restaurants

Eleven Madison Park tops the first rankings from Renzell, which surveys over 2,000 members.

The Pour

The Best Pairing for Indian Food? It’s Not Beer

More good Indian restaurants are offering excellent wine lists. The trick is in knowing how to pair it with the food.

Clafoutis, Any Way You Want Them

Clafoutis filled with vegetables and cheese are taking the French pancake from sweet to savory.

City Kitchen

The Lure of the Fish Cake

Made with fresh cod, bread crumbs and green herbs, these fish cakes are lighter than the typical.

Thai Seafood Finds a Downtown Home at Fish Cheeks

Parm takes on Williamsburg, Printers Alley brings Nashville to Times Square, and more restaurant news.

Our Restaurant Critic Goes National. First Stop: California.

Cassia in Santa Monica, Calif., serves up large flavors with delicacy and a pointed lack of interest in being confrontational.

San Lorenzo di Lerchi Journal

Italian Grows Forgotten Fruit. What She Preserves Is a Culture.

Like her father before her, Isabella Dalla Ragione scours the countryside in search of varieties that no longer satisfy agricultural trends, market demands and modern tastes.

Cooking
The torte that started it all: Marian Burros’s plum torte.
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

The torte that started it all: Marian Burros’s plum torte.

The plum torte didn’t seem to have the makings of a hit when it was published in 1983. Thirty-three years later, it’s still beloved.

Eat

When a Food Craving Won’t Let Go

Cochinita Pibil — pork made aromatic with citrus, cumin and allspice — will be a dish you want to eat on repeat.

A Good Appetite

Eggplant, Tomatoes and Just a Bit of Pasta

Roasted eggplant and simmered heirloom tomatoes make for a vegetable-rich pasta dish.

City Kitchen

Lebanese Spices Give Dinner a Boost

Baharat, a fragrant spice mix, adds warmth and depth to lamb.

Eat

The Crispy Decadence of the Patty Melt

The cheesy classic Los Angeles sandwich gets the treatment it deserves with or without the meat.

The No-Muss, No-Fuss Beauty of a Fig Tart

This fig tart looks like the handiwork of a professional chef, but it isn’t hard to put together.

Restaurants and News

The 2016 Fall Restaurant Preview

A look at the new restaurants, bars and markets opening in New York this season.

The Same, Only Different: Designing a New Union Square Cafe

The designer David Rockwell and the restaurateur Danny Meyer have set out, carefully and at times exhaustively, to re-create a classic.

New York Gets a New Helping of Barbecue

The Southern invasion continues this fall, mostly in Brooklyn and Queens.

Chains Will Bring a Taste of the West Coast to New York

Arriving this fall, restaurants from Sugarfish, Wolfgang Puck and Eatsa.

Nostalgia Tops the Menu of Fall’s Big Restaurant Openings

Florence Fabricant looks forward to old-style luxury, new Nordic cooking and reinvented Asian dishes.

Manhattan’s Hottest New Dining Spot: The 20s

The Flatiron and NoMad areas will get a crop of new restaurants.

Opening Their Own Restaurants, for the First Time

Adam Leonti, Jared Sippel, Anne Burrell and Jeanne Mélanie Delcourt will get kitchens this fall.

New York’s Latest Craving, Poke, by the Pound at Sweetcatch

A small group of restaurants says it will serve the dish in a more authentic Hawaiian way.

A Wave of Japanese Restaurants With a Twist

New York’s latest crop will have a narrow focus: on solitude, speed and special noodles.

Coming From the Estela Chef: Flora, in the Met Breuer

Ignacio Mattos and his partner, Thomas Carter, plan to add ‘downtown spirit’ to the uptown museum.

Dan Kluger Steps Out on His Own

The chef makes a play for autonomy after years working for Jean-Georges Vongerichten at the ABC restaurants.

How to Pick the Fastest Line at the Supermarket

Experts offer tips for reducing your time in the grocery store checkout line.

New Food Halls and Markets in New York

New sources for meat, chocolate, pastries and more prepared foods and ingredients will arrive in New York this fall.

Hungry City

Snacks of Nepal Are a High Point at Woodside Cafe in Queens

A family started out with Italian food, then turned to the dishes of its Himalayan homeland.

Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor Dies at 79; Celebrated Gullah Food and Culture

A South Carolina native, who liked to call herself a “culinary griot,” she was heard on NPR for three decades. She also was an author, an actress and a singer.

The Veggie Burger’s Ascent

The newest meatless burgers aren’t obligatory additions to menus. They’re the stars.

Drinks
Frank Cornelissen in his vineyard on Sicily’s Mount Etna.
Alfonso M. Cevola for The New York Times

Frank Cornelissen in his vineyard on Sicily’s Mount Etna.

On Mount Etna, Frank Cornelissen has learned the difference between making wine and making good wine for the ages.

The Hard-Cider Craze Will Get a Hard-Core Pub

The drink will be pressed and aged at Brooklyn Cider House, opening this fall in Bushwick.

Science Fiction Meets Music (Fanatically) at Jupiter Disco

Future and past will mingle at a bar coming to Bushwick, Brooklyn.

Rouge Tomate: Smaller Restaurant, Bigger Wine List

After a two-year wait, a New York wine destination will reopen in Chelsea in a new guise.

Drink

Tiki’s Comeback

Drinks that fell out of fashion as the epitome of kitsch are being revived as joyfully composed craft cocktails.

When Tart, Pungent and Funky Mean It’s a Good Brew

American brewers have taken up the dark art of sour beers. Results are mixed, but the best indicate a promising future.

A Book Adds Rigor to the Laid-Back World of Tiki Cocktails

The owners of the San Francisco tiki bar Smuggler’s Cove set out to define an aesthetic built on leis and umbrellas.

Wine School
Wine School
Your Next Lesson: Oregon Pinot Noir

Many places outside of Burgundy aspire to make great pinot noir. The Willamette Valley succeeds.

Front Burner
To Nosh

Mini-bagels for the High Holy Days, and more news from Florence Fabricant.

Featured Recipes
Plum Almond Tart
Disco Ball
Berry Tiramisù
Paper Plane
Falafel
Deluxe Cheesecake
Fresh Fig Tart
Fig Jam
Chocolate Burfi
Prune Pudding
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INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

Culinary Travel
Harvesting Grapes in France, With Champagne as Reward

Taking part in the timeless tradition of the vendange is a way to tax the body and free the mind, cheaply.

Bites
A London Outpost of a Paris Trendsetter

Despite its name, Frenchie’s accent is as British as it is French.

52 Places to Go
Where Foodies Should Go in 2016

Truffles, beer, cherries and crustaceans are singled out for celebrations.

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