Just Open: Dukes Bistro, Randwick

The patterned carpet and tinned pineapple at The DOG (Duke of Gloucester) hotel have gone, with a new 170-seat bistro sliding into the Randwick local this Friday.

Dukes Bistro takes up residence in a section of the pub John Azar, from new owner The Good Beer Company, says previously felt like a tired old club. "We've given it an American theme with a French twist. There's a bit of a New Orleans, and an artist has created a great landscape mural in the stairwell," he says.

Executive chef Dwayne Baber's opening menu taps Sydney's usual suspects, with slow-cooked meats and share plates, as well as reinterpreting some classics.

Rillettes with pickled cauliflower and cherry mustard. Photo: Supplied

"There's escargot, and lobster medallions with asparagus risotto. Grilled prawns with cognac beurre blanc and a dessert of peanut butter and chocolate fondant," Azar says.

Sommelier Louella Mathews (ex-Rockpool) has created a wine list of local, French and American wines, and the new owner's craft brew experience is evident with 12 beers on tap.

If it's all sounding a little too gentrified for a pub once run by rugby league player Clive Churchill, Azar stresses The DOG retains its humbler roots: "The bistro has a big balcony, with views of the service station across the road."