When it comes to dining out in Sydney, we're all about looking forward, not backward. And our restaurants are a perfect example of that – often small, always perfectly formed, offering everything from basement smallgoods, interpretive Chinese food with a side-serve of Mariah Carey, candlelit French with a booze-fuelled twist and new wave Turkish thrills and grills. The most exciting opening in past 12 months, the finalists of this award set the eating agenda, start conversations and represents everything that's fresh, hot and interesting about eating.
And the finalists are…
Automata
This is serious snacking for fun lovers. See the grilled lettuce covered in shavings of roast venison liver swiftly followed by raw plums in dressed in fermented juice and mustard oil covered in nasturtium leaves. The wine offerings are pitched live and local, far-reaching and very specific, along with ultra personal service whether you're bar-or-tableside. 5 Kensington St, Chippendale. 02 8277 8555. automata.com.au
Mercado
Sydney is finally falling in love with its basements, and Mercado, from the savvy team behind China Doll, is beautifully ensconced in the lower ground floor of a quite magnificent 1895 building. Former Nomad chef Nathan Sasi, however, goes one further by having a basement in his basement. Here, he produces his own cheeses and charcuterie, including baby-soft mortadella, smoked wagyu tongue and pickled green tomatoes for the signature brioche toastie. 4 Ash St, Sydney. 02 9221 6444. mercadorestaurant.com.au
Stanbuli
The McConnells may own the lion's share of inner Melbourne but the Abrahanowicz-Valores are making a pretty good fist of taking Sydney's inner west. They're part owners of Mary's Burgers. The Continental Deli is keeping Australia Street well fed on tinned fish and sherry. And their latest addition, a middle eastern bar and restaurant on the infamous Marie-Louise salon site, is flavouring Enmore Road with thrills and grills. 135 Enmore Rd, Enmore. 02 8624 3132. stanbuli.com.au
The Paddington
When chef Ben Greeno decides he's going to leave Momofuku Seiobo and roast chooks instead, you sit up and listen. And Sydney definitely did. Cut to the chase and order the roast chicken. Add a perfectly dressed cos salad, a serve of shoestring fries, and that's game, set, match. Unless, of course, you follow with a fennel-fragrant marmalade cake with a scoop of yoghurt ice cream. In which case, play on. 380 Oxford St, Paddington. 02 9240 3000. merivale.com.au
Restaurant Hubert It starts with the stairs. Down they go, lined with nearly 4000 miniature liquor bottles, spiralling around and around until they tip you out into post-war Europe. The Swillhouse Group's wood-panelled basement dining room, small bars and cellars are an homage to all that we love about restaurants. Ceiling fans spin above, tall candles drip wax, and Johnny Mathis croons in the background, as chef Dan Pepperell skilfully subverts classic French recipes into a delicious hybrid of Escoffier and Lucky Peach. 15 Bligh St, Sydney. restauranthubert.com
So you've had your fill of these brand newbies but what of this list of restaurants you'll never get to visit?
The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide award night, presented by Citi and Vittoria, is on September 5. The Guide will be on sale in newsagents and bookstores from September 6, with all book purchases receiving free access to the new Good Food app.