Claire Ptak’s recipe for nectarine and cherry cobbler

Summer is the time for macerating. I love this term. By sprinkling sliced or chopped fruits with sugar, and allowing them to sit for a period of time, we tenderise them and allow them to steep, almost like a tea, in their own juices. The process draws a lot of liquid, flavour and nuance from the fruit and, mixed with the sugar, makes them delicious and syrupy. Then they are ready to use.

There’s something about a balmy summer evening makes me want a delicious light rosé or red wine. The French do it right by lightly macerating peaches, strawberries or – my favourite – nectarines in a little sugar, then covering them with wine as a dessert. Use the same wine you have been drinking for the meal: a gamay (the grape variety used in Beaujolais) is always good.

Just when you thought you’d had every iteration of cobbler, here comes another. This is a very portable one that I adore. I call it top-and-bottom cobbler, because of its base, which allows you to eat it as you would a slice of pizza. Brilliant.

Nectarine and cherry top-and-bottom cobbler

Serves 6
115g unsalted butter, softened
100g granulated sugar
1 tsp fine sea salt
2 eggs
280g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
120ml milk

For the filling
3-4 nectarines, cut into eighths
200g cherries, pitted and halved
100g brown sugar
1 tsp lemon juice

For the topping
210g plain flour
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
150g butter, cut into 1cm pieces
1 egg
60ml milk
45g demerara sugar

1 Butter and line a 20x30cm baking dish with parchment. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.

2 For the base, cream together the butter, sugar and salt until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, until incorporated.

3 Whisk together the flour and baking powder. On a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, add half of the flour to the butter and sugar. Once mixed, add half the milk, followed by the remaining flour, then the remaining milk.

4 Mix until smooth, but not overmixed. Spread the bottom mixture into your prepared tin, and smooth the top with a spatula.

5 For the fruit filling, toss together the nectarines, cherries, sugar and lemon juice. Leave to macerate while you prepare the topping.

6 For the topping, add the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt into the bowl of a food processor. Pulse to combine. Add the butter and process until the mixture has a sandy texture. Add the egg and milk at once, and pulse a few times to bring the dough together.

7 The fruit should now be well macerated. Toss it again in the sugar, then tip the fruit and any juice over the prepared base, spreading out the mixture evenly.

8 Drop spoonfuls of the topping mixture over the fruit, leaving some of it exposed to create a cobbler effect. Sprinkle with demerara and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until golden and cooked through.

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Nectarines in wine

Serves 6
4 ripe nectarines
Sugar, to taste (begin with 2 tbsp)
375ml Beaujolais wine

1 Slice the nectarines into bite-size pieces and put in a glass bowl or serving dish large enough also to hold about half a bottle of wine. Sprinkle over the sugar, toss with a spoon, then taste for sweetness. You are looking to bring out the flavours in the nectarines without making them too sweet. If you feel the nectarines could use a little extra sugar, add more by the teaspoonful until you are happy. Leave for at least 30 minutes and up to 3 hours to macerate. If it is a very warm day, put them in the fridge.

2 Just before serving, pour over the wine, then stir.

3 Spoon the fruit and wine into serving glasses – these could be wine glasses or simply tumblers.

• Claire Ptak is an author and food stylist and owns Violet Bakery in London. She is the author of the Violet Bakery Cookbook (Square Peg); @violetcakeslondon