The Fascinating Evolution Of The Princess Diana Gown Style

Lonesome in her 'Elvis' dress Catherine Walker, 1989 Dubbed ‘my Elvis dress’ by the Princess, this strapless white silk crepe sheath with its matching high-collared jacket — embroidered with thousands of sequins and pearls — is a work of art. Yet this regal outfit — which later sold for more than £100,000 at auction — masked incredible sadness and vulnerability as Diana came to terms with the fact that her marriage, by now loveless, was beyond rescue. The same year, Diana later revealed, she challenged her husband’s long-term love Camilla at a party over their relationship. She said: ‘I know what’s going on between you and Charles and I just want you to know that.’ Here, the Princess wears it with the Queen’sdiamond and pearl Cambridge Lover’s Knot tiara. The heirloom has since been worn by the daughter-in-law Diana would have loved, but never got the chance to meet — Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge. Rare mistake she cringed at Emanuel, 1985 Despite her model-like figure, Diana didn’t always get it right: this checked coat was dubbed ‘the horse blanket’ by the Press. Designed by David and Elizabeth Emanuel, who famously also made her wedding dress, the wool coat, with its matching broad-brim hat, was worn by Diana for an official visit to Venice in 1985. She and Charles stayed on the Royal Yacht Britannia. The coat was never seen in public again — little surprise given that Diana always pored over the reviews of what she wore. Fascinatingly, it seems that Diana gave the coat to a charity shop near the Queen’s private residence at Sandringham, where it was bought by an anonymous member of the public 20 years ago. The buyer eventually sold it at auction in 2016, when it was bought by Historic Royal Palaces who are now displaying it for the first time. The coat’s provenance has been confirmed by the original designers. Simple suit that meant business Catherine Walker, 1997 This blush pink day suit, worn to a children’s bravery awards at the Savoy Hotel in 1997, is a beautiful example of how Diana had pared down her style post-divorce. Its hip-skimming jacket, flattering three-quarter-length bracelet sleeves, and short pencil skirt show off her toned, trim figure, while the discreet pearl earrings, nude heels and bag (subsequently adopted by the Duchess of Cambridge) have been chosen so as not to distract from the simple beauty of the suit. For Diana this was a very deliberate choice: she wanted outfits that would focus attention on her work, not her wardrobe. Lavish lace made by a soulmate Bruce Oldfield, 1990 Diana always felt like an outsider after she married into the Royal Family and in designer Bruce Oldfield she found a kindred spirit: a Barnardo’s boy from a broken home who had broken into the rarefied world of society fashion. He made this romantic cream and satin Thirties- style dress for her, which she first wore here, at London’s Somerset House, and then again the following year for a banquet at Buckingham Palace. With its deep but demure neckline, as well as a lace over-jacket and satin belt, it required no adornment but the Princess’s golden tan, pearls and a simple matching clutch and heels. Designed for Diana at the height of the so-called War of the Waleses, the dress is a poignant reminder of the ruffles and frills she had so loved as a fresh- faced bride less than ten years previously. It is also one of the last occasions we see the Princess, who was fast approaching her 30th birthday, in such an overtly-girlish gown. Working it in royal red Catherine Walker, 1996 This impeccably cut pillar-box red suit is a fabulous example of Catherine Walker — Diana’s all-time favourite designer — at her finest. Worn to a public engagement launching the HIV/Aids charity London Lighthouse appeal in 1996, the slim-fitting blazer, with trademark shoulder pads and gold button details, flares at the hips, adding feminine curves. There was an instinctive bond between Diana and Walker. The couturier knew not just how to play to the Princess’s strengths but to use her clothes to send out a distinct message: I am a confident, working woman. Dazzling in her sexiest dress ever Catherine Walker, 1994 Effortlessly sexy, this may break fashion rules with its thigh high split and daring neckline to show off both legs and décolletage — but boy, does it work! Finally free to spread her wings after officially separating from Charles in 1992, this is the Princess at the peak of her power and beauty. And she cannot hide the delight she feels at having the world at her feet. ‘I have learned much over the last years,’ she said. ‘I no longer want to live someone else’s idea of what and who I should be. I am going to be me.’