Watchmakers love to dazzle with stunning displays and breathtaking complications - but it would be a misstep to overlook that which tethers all that mechanical wizardry to our wrists. Watch straps accompanying some of the best horological releases this year are being led in intriguing directions by the very best shoe design houses.
A highlight debut from Baselworld 2016 was Hublot's Classic Fusion Berluti, which employed Parisian shoemaker Berluti's glorious Venezia leather to supersede the traditional use of leather in watchmaking.
Hublot x Berluti
Hublot is no stranger to pushing the boundaries on materials, previously producing watches featuring denim and carbon fibre. An alliance between Hublot and Berluti is not such an odd pairing as luxury marques, linked as they are by an obsession with detail and their standing among the very best in their respective industries.
![Hublot’s Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto exemplifies Italian leather specialist Berluti’s expertise in finishing and ...](/web/20160624184210im_/http://www.executivestyle.com.au/content/dam/images/g/p/n/x/a/i/image.related.articleLeadwide.520x294.gpnwos.png/1466659775598.jpg)
A tobacco or jet black-toned fusion of Berluti's patina expertise and Hublot's know-how ensures a watch with character and warmth; but the technical application of leather in the dial of the two models is also a stand-out.
Dial file
One of the major difficulties of the collaboration was the challenge of using an organic material in a sealed environment that would be able to withstand long-term use. In the end, a chemical process helped preserve the dial leather.
Each limited edition watch is housed in a special box covered in the same Berluti leather as the strap, befitting the considerations of a classic gentleman with its leather care kit, complete with wax and brushes for your straps or Berluti shoes, plus a watch pouch.
![Hublot’s Classic Fusion Berluti comes in two options – tobacco or jet black.](/web/20160624184210im_/http://www.executivestyle.com.au/content/dam/images/g/p/n/x/a/h/image.related.articleLeadwide.520x294.gpnwos.png/1466659775598.jpg)
Heart and sole
Another parallel between design areas is the application of engineering – a shoe's hidden engineering is all about weight-bearing, while a watch's engineering ensures accurate timekeeping.
Functionality often steals the limelight over fashion statements, but style can't be ignored when cult shoe hero Christian Louboutin makes his mark on an icon like the Jaeger-Le Coultre Reverso.
Louboutin's series for the Swiss watchmaker, available in the small and medium sizes of the Reverso Classic Duetto, comprises the first watches from its new Atelier Reverso line, on the 85th anniversary of the famous swiveling watch.
Any mention of Louboutin elicits expectation of the French designer's signature seductively red leather swathe. But although two red options are available, a strap and dial with shimmering colours, traversing soft green to pink, from blue to plum, are playful surprises that create an effect like petrol on water that emulates an iridescence Louboutin has used on shoes.
Other Louboutin Reverso designs include a lattice-like strap with pastel geometric, plastic inserts.
Santorini style
IWC has had a fruitful, exclusive relationship for a number of years with Santoni, the luxury Italian shoe purveyor. Most of Santoni's production, like the exacting ornamental seam work and its famous anticatura or antique finishing, is still carried out by nimble fingered hands, and all work is done under the same roof. The family company is proud to use a manually operated carousel over a conveyor belt, and is revered for its Manofatto men's shoes. Many of IWC's new Big Pilot's models feature calfskin straps by Santoni, in homage to aviator watches produced by IWC 80 years ago.
Of course, luxury names such as Gucci, Ferragamo, Fendi, Louis Vuitton and Hermès are well-poised to apply their wealth of leather knowledge to watch straps. And some of the fashion-centred houses have really bolstered their watch designs with richly coloured leather this year.
The feel of fabric
High quality leather and colour play, followed by textured and cut-out or perforated leather, are leading the visual interest. Yet fabric is also bringing attention to straps, notably on the customisation front.
There are lots of fabric straps on view but Tudor excels in the fabric game with the numerous offerings for its Heritage collection (and some models of its Fastrider and Clair de Rose).
While easy to mistakenly compare to NATO nylon variants, the brand's fabric straps are actually made in France by a traditional passementerie firm that specialises in the art of hand-woven elaborate trimmings and is one of the few remaining in the country still practising Jacquard weaving.
Interchangeable options
The result is a sturdy, flexible strap with complex patterns and a dense weave for peerless comfort. An audience favourite at Baselworld was the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze, with its nautical-inspired bronze theme from case to fabric strap.
The desire for versatility is also well met by Boucheron with its latest interchangeable strap options for Reflets that are a nod to Mondrian's favourite yellow, red and black, and Vacheron Constantin Overseas models with three straps (a steel bracelet, and two blue choices - a waterproof textured band and a classic leather strap).
Strap yourself in
To bring the watchmaker-shoemaker alliance to its logical conclusion, you could opt to pair iconic Gucci Horsebit loafers with a latest Gucci G-Timeless watch on a brown or black alligator strap; but if that's too matchy-matchy preppie, a little bit of creativity will work. But keeping in the same tone of leather is a good guide and leather always impresses when suiting up.
If you are after a new leather strap for your regular watch remember pricing is based on the type of hide - from basic leather to exotics - as well as the way it's treated, the workmanship (including stitching), and comfort factors.
Omega is known for its exceptional leather straps, but there are hundreds of manufacturers in the straps market. A sound piece of advice is to prioritise seeing a strap in person if the budget permits a fair expenditure – it can be challenging to verify quality and authentic leather from a screengrab.
Check out the finest watch strap collaborations featured in the gallery at the top of the page.