Winning tip: City of Spies walking tour
During the second world war, neutral Lisbon was a hotbed of espionage. The City of Spies guided walking tour shines a spotlight on that shadowy past, bringing some colourful characters, including the “real” James Bond, to life. In the Teatro Politeama, on “Lisbon’s Broadway”, performer Josephine Baker regularly smuggled messages for the allies in her bra. From a nearby coffee shop, a chicken farmer turned double agent called Garbo filed fake reports to the Nazis; while in the Avenida Palace Hotel a concealed door led directly into Rossio railway station, so that furtive figures carrying vital intelligence, could avoid the waiting secret police at its main entrance. We were fascinated.
• €20pp, lisbonwalker.com
Moiraash
The ferry to Cacilhas
Photograph: Alamy
For just €2.75, take the ferry from Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré railway station across the Tagus river, to the town of Cacilhas. It’s a quick ride, but it takes you from the city to a small village, with terraces full of restaurants, old stone buildings with chipped blue and white azulejo tiles and stunning views of Lisbon’s seven hills. Once in Cacilhas, take the quick walk to the Cristo Rei statue, pose for a selfie by the famous 25 de Abril bridge, visit the neighbouring town of Almada, or grab a table at Restaurante Ponto Final, and enjoy some afternoon wine by the river.
Peter Gorman
Sunset drinks in a car park
Park Bar is a rooftop bar in a secret spot on top of a car park in the Bairro Alto. On entering the car park there is no signposting to the bar so we had to resort to sign language with the attendant to be sure we were in the right place. The dingy stairwell opens out to a decked garden terrace with a chilled-out vibe, comfy seating, a great wine list and a view to die for. The perfect spot for a sundowner or three.
• On Facebook
DanielleM
Chapito restaurant, Alfama
Restô do Chapitô is a bar, restaurant and a state-funded school for circus performers, but most importantly it has one of the best views in Lisbon, overlooking Alfama (the oldest district of Lisbon), the river and the bridge. The food is great, the vibe is relaxed and the staff are laid-back but efficient. I come here every time I visit Lisbon as it epitomises the city for me.
chapito.org
James Buchanan
Secret garden in the middle of Lisbon
We stumbled into the jungly paradise of Estufa Fria and Estufa Quente (hot and cool plant houses) in Parque Eduardo VII, the city’s central park, on a misty autumn morning. We walked wide-eyed through the towering ferns and banana trees, taking meandering pathways across streams, eventually encountering a mysterious door into a deserted quarry full of towering cacti. No city sounds could be heard. We expected to see a unicorn but none appeared. Maybe you’ll have more luck.
Verinia
A restaurant lunch to savour and share
Our first meal in Lisbon was at Restaurante O Gaiteiro, and it really got us off to a great start. After navigating our way through the narrow, cobbled streets we stumbled across it, just in time for lunch. It served mariscada, mixed seafood rice, with prawns, squid and cod. It must use an extremely rich seafood stock as the dish was packed with flavour. We shared a huge platter between two for €8 and washed it down with a carafe of red for €1.50. No frills, just a fantastic dish and friendly atmosphere.
• On Facebook
Laura Thomas
One of Europe’s oldest jazz clubs
In a side street off one of Lisbon’s main roads, the intimate Hot Clube de Portugal is one of the best places I have been to in Europe for live jazz. No food is available but it is a great venue for some after dinner, late-night music and drinks. Entrance was €10 on a Saturday night and it is usually packed so try not to get there too late.
• hcp.pt
Trisha Ray
Poignant, haunting new museum
For a unique insight into modern Portugal, visit the Museu Do Aljube (Museum of Resistance and Liberation), close to the imposing Sé Cathedral. This new, free museum in a former prison uses the space, including the cells, to trace the period of the Salazar dictatorship in Portugal and its colonies. It is sobering and moving, and by the end you will be pleased to reach the delightful cafe on the top floor, with excellent views of the city and harbour.
museudoaljube.pt
donaghadee
Loo’s a winner
I can’t verify the designers’ claim that this is “the sexiest WC on Earth” but the public loos on Terreiro do Paco Square are certainly like no other I’ve encountered. Once I’d paid my 50 cents to the resident “toilet fairy” I could choose the colour of loo paper I wanted from a rainbow selection in the “foyer” that looks like a modern art installation. The giant communal wash basin is bright yellow and toilet-roll shaped. There’s even an attached gift shop, selling … you’ve guessed. Opening hours are 10am to 8pm, so a call of nature outside those times could be an “inconvenience”.
• myrenova.com
rja123
Up and coming fado
You should experience fado when in Lisbon and you should experience it at Povo. Up-and-coming fado singers are given a short residency and perform every night producing a CD at the end. It’s an up-close, intimate venue where you can see the emotion in the singers’ faces and feel it in their beautiful voice. On top of that, the staff are friendly, the pesticos (snacks) are amazing and the wine wonderful. There is no entry fee and you can reserve a table in advance, but sitting up at the end of the bar gives a great view.
• povolisboa.com
ID7015747
The bar that’s packing them in like sardines …
With so many bars to choose from, where do you start? This one might be a good place, or should that be plaice? It is in a former fishing tackle shop, and this small bar has kept all the fishing paraphernalia and stocked up on tins of fish. The menu is limited – its fish, canned or tinned, or try the dried slices of tuna, a real revelation. To the west of the city centre and below the Bairro Alto, this isn’t the usual tourist trap, but well worth searching out.
• solepesca.com
Mark Camp
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