One sure bellwether of a rising neighborhood is the appearance of first-rate restaurants, especially ones that are run by owners, and skew to a demographic that is young, hip and hungry — the latter an adjective you can read on several levels.
And so it is with The Preservery, a new restaurant in the RiNo district that is owned by Whitney and Obe Ariss. Launched in April, just in time for baseball season, the room is a hip space in a venerable brick building. It reflects the owners’ eclectic background.
Whitney grew up in California’s Central Valley, and she has more than a dozen years of experience in the culinary industry under her belt. Obe, a Toronto native and musician, is the business director.
They had long talked about launching an entrepreneurial venture together, and became earnest about the matter after a trip to New Orleans 2½ years ago. Wowed by the food they encountered, it was decided: a restaurant. (Yes, there is a muffaletta on the lunch menu, complete with a savory olive spread sure to earn a favorable nod from the Crescent City’s Central Grocery, where the sandwich originated.)
The menu was created by chef Brendan Russell, formerly of Frasca Food and Wine and ChoLon, and ranges from savory sandwiches to ambitious plates such as pork tenderloin with smoked cherry agrodolce and braised rabbit in vinegar sauce.
It is served by a fresh-faced, friendly staff that is quick to explain the menu. When Whitney is there, she will walk you through it herself.
Obe has Lebanese roots on his father’s side, and some of the dishes reflect the heritage of the Levant. Tabbouleh was a mint-flecked pile of bulgur studded with golden raisins, while a hummus sandwich was spiked with preserved lemon and pickled radish.
The Preservery, which is open seven days a week, serves a multitude of functions. At lunch, it’s more of a deli, sandwich-driven and with goods such as jarred fruits and veggies. Dinner switches to more refined fare.
Grazers are rewarded with an array of small plates, and folks willing to let out a notch in their belts will find robust entrees.
Winning appetizers include a terrific octopus dish, served in white porcelain in a sauce of smoked tomato, capers, garlic and basil. The baby pulpo are tender, and no matter how generous you are dunking it in the sauce, you’ll have plenty of the tomatoey goodness for the grilled baguette slices accompanying it.
Potato croquettes also pleased. Fried to a golden brown, they arrived with pickled ramps and beer mustard.
Just a bit less satisfying were the fried cod cheeks. Cod cheeks are the jewels of that fish, but these were rather overcooked and had a bit too much chew. Still, kudos to the bruléed lemon and a bold tartar sauce that came with it. I could spend an evening dipping French fries into the latter.
Seafood fans should dive into the halibut in saffron broth. The snow-white fish swims with cipollini onions, potatoes and bok choy. You get color and crunch, plus a ton of flavor.
Being a native of North Carolina, I have long worshipped at the altar of the swine. The Preservery’s kitchen produces an outstanding pork tenderloin, starting with the cut itself, which is sourced from Niman Ranch. Their version comes with fennel and Hakurei turnips, a small Japanese variety with a delicate flavor. The dish’s deal-sealer? A smoked cherry sauce that proves yet again how well stone fruit pairs with pork.
The Preservery has a small but tasty beverage program, with wallet-friendly wines and creative cocktails.
With summer here, the restaurant, filled with light and boasting an airy feel, should be a magnet for food fans in central Denver and beyond.
And hey, unlike so many spots in its neighborhood, they actually have a parking lot.
Raise a glass to that.
William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@denverpost.com or @williamporterdp
THE PRESERVERY
Contemporary American
3040 Blake St. 303-298-6821 thepreservery.com
***
Great
Atmosphere: Hip room with a long bar
Service: Fast, friendly
Beverages: Beer, wine, cocktails
Plates: Sandwiches, $7-$10; small plates, $7-$14; mains, $11-$35
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday noon-10 p.m. Closed Sunday-Monday.
Details: Parking lot
Two visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
Stars reflect the dining reviewer’s overall reaction to the restaurant’s food, service and atmosphere.
