Buddha's First Sermon, Buddhism's Birth at Sarnath

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• published: 27 Nov 2011
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I'm in Sarnath, standing in front of the Panchaytan temple, the covered roof seen to my right. In the background the formidable Dhamekh Stupa, where Buddha preached his first sermon in 6th Cent. B.C., rises high in the haze of a searing Sun. Then I turn left and walk past knee-high ruins of shrines and stupas along the long courtyard forming the eastern approach of the Main Shrine, also known as the Mulagandha Kuti, and said to be where Buddha used to sit in meditation. According to Huen-Tsang the Main Shrine or the Mulgandha Kuti rose 61 metres, almost paralleling the Dhamekh stupa. Now only the ruins, reduced to a little over head-high, survive. The exposed bricks of the shrine initially built to a length of 18.29 metres along each side a mere indication of the glory that was once Sarnath's. I turn again and return to the Panchaytan temple. The massive Dhamekh stupa swings back into view in the distance only to drop out of the frame as I stop and do an about turn again to close out with the view of where the Mulagandha Kuti once rose high over Sarnath several centuries ago. I'm starting walking from the eastern entrance to the Mulagandhakuti, also known as the Main Shrine, before walking around it, along the concrete pavement, passing each of its four former entrances, facing east, north, west, and south. The eastern entrance to the Mulagandhakuti aligns with an approach that opens into a large open courtyard where many stupas and shrines are to be found, as seen briefly when I pan the camera to my right before returning to my walking path. Mulagandha Kuti was laid on a square plan, measuring 18.29 mts. each side, and was noted to be over 60 metres high by the Chinese traveler, Hiuen-Tsang, in the 7th century, now barely rising 4 metres high. I pause briefly in front of its north entrance before continuing walking around to where visitors are gathered to around stumps of pillars in the shade of a roof. The stumps of pillars adjoin Mulagandhakuti to the west, and sport inscriptions of Emperor Asoka ((304--232 BC) warning monks against creating schisms in the Order of monks. One of the pillars was once surmounted by the famous Lion-capital (state emblem of India) installed by Asoka. The Lion-capital came to be adopted by India as its state emblem, and is now exhibited in the main hall of the site-museum a short distance away. Then I walk around to the south entrance of the Mulagandhakuti inside which is placed a monolithic railing (fashioned out of a single block of stone) that once surmounted the Dharmarajika stupa a few metres to the south of my position. Dhamekh Stupa As we walked around the massive structure I looked up only to see it blot out the sky. In awe I wondered what it must have been like several centuries ago, imagining Buddhist monks go about their lives. A stone plaque near the Dhamekh Stupa provided more information. "According to an inscription dated 1026 A.D. recovered from the site, its old name was Dharma Chakra Stupa. It is perhaps commemorating the spot where Lord Buddha preached his first sermon. In search of the relic casket Alexander Cunnigham bored a vertical shaft through its center down to the foundation level and at a depth of 91.4 cms. He found a slab with the inscription "Ye Dharma Hetu Prabhava Hetu . . . . ." written in the Brahmi script of 6th -- 7th century A.D. Further below he traced out a stupa made of Mauryan bricks. However, the present diameter of this solid cylindrical tower is 28.5 metres at the base and 33.35 meters in height. Its total height is 42.60 meters including the foundation. The structure consists of a circular stone drum upto the height of 11.20 meters from the ground, above which rises the cylindrical mass of brick work about 6.0 meters above the base, eight niches are provided in eight directions which must have contained images of Buddha. Below them runs a broad course of beautifully carved stones having geometric designs, swastika, leaf and floral patterns combined with birds and human figures."