Rome trip walking tour - Campo De' Fiori
Rome walking tour -
Campo De' Fiori
ローマ観光 カンポ・ディ・フィオーリ広場
Campo de' Fiori is a rectangular square near
Piazza Navona in
Rome, Italy, on the border of rione
Parione and rione
Regola. Campo de' Fiori, translated literally from
Italian, means "field of flowers". The name was first given during the
Middle Ages when the area was actually a meadow.
The monument to philosopher
Giordano Bruno in the centre of the square.
History
In
Ancient Rome the area was unused space between
Pompey's Theatre and the flood-prone
Tiber. Though the
Orsini established themselves on the south flank of the space in the
13th century, until the
15th century the square remained undeveloped. The first church in the immediate vicinity was built during the pontificate of
Boniface IX (1389-1404),
Santa Brigida a Campo de' Fiori; with the building-up of the rione, the church has now come to face that part of the former square that is now Piazza
Farnese. In 1456 under
Pope Callixtus III, Ludovico
Cardinal Trevisani paved the area: this was part of a greater project of improvement of the rione Parione. This renewal was both the result and cause of several important buildings being built in the surroundings; in particular, the Orsini palace on Campo de' Fiori was rebuilt.
The Renaissance Palazzo della Cancelleria can be seen in Vasi's etching, rising majestically beyond the far right corner of the square.
A close-up of the statue of Giordano Bruno.
Campo de' Fiori has never been architecturally formalized. The square has always remained a focus for commercial and street culture: the surrounding streets are named for trades—Via dei Balestrari (crossbow-makers), Via dei Baullari (coffer-makers), Via dei Cappellari (hat-makers), Via dei
Chiavari (key-makers) and Via dei Giubbonari (tailors). With new access streets installed by
Sixtus IV— Via Florea and Via Pellegrino— the square became a necessary corridor for important people passing between the
Basilica of St. John Lateran and the Vatican, thus bringing wealth to the area: a flourishing horse market took place twice a week (Monday and Saturday) and a lot of inns, hotels and shops came to be situated in Campo de' Fiori.
Campo de' Fiori in the 1740s, etching by
Giuseppe Vasi.
Executions used to be held publicly in Campo de' Fiori. Here, on
17 February 1600, the philosopher Giordano Bruno was burnt alive for heresy, and all of his works were placed on the
Index of Forbidden Books by the
Holy Office. In 1887
Ettore Ferrari dedicated a monument to him on the exact spot of his death: he stands defiantly facing the Vatican, reinterpreted in the first days of a reunited
Italy as a
martyr to freedom of speech.
The body of theologian and scientist
Marco Antonio de Dominis was also burned in this square, in 1624.
The demolition of a block of housing in 1858 enlarged Campo de' Fiori,
and since 1869 there has been a vegetable and fish market there every morning. The ancient fountain known as la Terrina (the "soupbowl") that once watered cattle, resited in 1889, now keeps flowers fresh. Its inscription: FA
DEL BEN E LASSA DIRE ("Do the good and let them talk") suits the gossipy nature of the marketplace
. In the afternoons, local games of football give way to set-ups for outdoor cafés. At night, Campo de' Fiori is a meeting place for young people, both Italian and foreign.