Marocco, Jebel Toubkal 4165m, winter ascent - Jan 29, 2012

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• published: 11 Feb 2012
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6th day. Packing for trekking. Jack takes my soft-shell bicycle jacket and 110l transport bag as his rucksack. We start c.a. at 10 o'clock, about 5-10 cm snow fall on road. Getting warn and we take off our warm stuff, next the sunshine is full and rather hot. In the village Antonio buys a marrocan cap (we all are insisted to buy sth in shop, promise to visit after summit). Small girls are not willing to be taken photo ehh. We meet 3 girls, one of them is Polish and the other Englsh (they didn't climb the summit only cold night in the shelter). We are delighting of watching the beauty of mountains. Spotting 2 Russians of Sankt Petersburg and chatting about summit and refugees, Antonio speaks Russian. We climb higher, passing small shops on the way with orange juice, tea, sweets. We drink fantastic orange juice which we never ever tasted before. Once again we meet these 3 girls in this resting point, the sheppard with his herd. We reach small village -- couple of buildings: shops, restaurant and mosque of course, very irritating trader from the shop named "Robin Hood". Our boots are wet because of sunshine. Sunset is coming and we still on the way. In the shadow it's very cold, I decide to go faster I can to reach the shelter (my wet toes frizz). I've Tshirt and very thin blouse and temperature drops sharply. In the shelter I have real problem with toes it takes time to warm them up. Dinner from our Polish products (in room temp: 3C), we eating, chatting, having good time. By the fireplace we meet German climber he is very good, Spanish guys, Czech -- nice chatting about mountains, trips, Morocco and life. We dry our stuff by fireplace. At 9 o'clock we back to chamber to sleep, must to wake up about 6 in the morning. 7th little oversleeping. We ordered the breakfast 20DIR, eating very good, on full, tea to thermos. German guy starts at 7 o'clock, Spanish and we c.a 8 o'clock. Germany in 2 hrs on the top. Grzes in 2,5 hrs, me and Antonio 3 hrs. (average time of ascent is 3,5-5hrs). Temperature is about -15C, my and Grześ's toes had just frozen -- problems. Jack has summer shoes and he has doubled socks with NRC foil between and bike gaiters on shoes (unbelievable he has warm feet). First part of the route was cold and difficult, dropping crampons, frizzing toes. Some skitour guys climb with their ski (wow!). With the sun rise the conditions of climbing has improved. On the saddle we made longer rest (me and Antonio, Grześ was on the summit, Jack below us 0,5-1hr. With Spanish we ate some food, mainly dry fruits. 0,5 hrs to summit, we see German's coming down. A lot of snow, some problem with choosing right route but at 11 o'clock on the top. We altogether exchange congratulations, finally Spanish reach the top, they enthusiastically enjoy the summit. We made some photo session, waiting for Jack. Eventually we decided to go down, Jack is without water and food, we met him on the saddle and encourage him to climb the rest route. He did it sole we go down. It's getting very warm. In the refuggio we dry our wet stuff, Grześ prepared delicious soups for us, waiting for Jack. Warning for one guy, at 3 o'clock he goes for summit without sunglasses, sunblocker and cap. I told him he might go blind, he back to friends for necessary things -- it makes funny situation. After reaching refuggio by Jack, rest, eating, at 4 o'clock we go down via valley. It takes c.a 5 hrs, some part of the route we take in the dark. Our walk is very fast. Grzes and Antonio first reach the tavern, me next, Jack is the last. Next days we have heavy pain in legs. After wash, supper, we have Holly Mass, me and Grześ are the altar boys -- extra. After mass we sing a carol X-mas carol. It's cold and Jack brings a radiator to our chamber. Some drops of vodka to solace our souls. It was really fantastic day. For me it's too hard to fall asleep I was too tired.