Hong Kong is frequently described as a place where
East meets West, blending ancient traditions with the western cosmopolitan influences. On one street corner, there may be traditional
Chinese shops selling
Chinese herbal medicine, Buddhist paraphernalia or bowls of synthetic shark fin soup. But around the next, one may find theaters showing the latest
Hollywood blockbuster, an English-style pub, or a McDonald's,
Hong Kong, which means "
Fragrant harbor", was a crown colony of the
United Kingdom from 1842 until the transfer of its sovereignty to the
People's Republic of China in
1997. The former colony is divided into four main areas -
Kowloon, Hong Kong Island, the
New Territories, and the
Outlying Islands. The city itself is centered around
Victoria Harbour. The main business district is
Central, on
Hong Kong Island.
East of Central lies the
Admiralty commercial district;
Wan Chai, known for restaurants and clubs; then
Causeway Bay, a major shopping area. Towering above it all is the Peak, Hong Kong's premier scenic outlook and residential district. In
Kowloon,
Tsim Sha Tsui (on the southern tip),
Jordan and
Yau Ma Tei are busy hotel and shopping areas, while
Mong Kok is a bustling residential and another shopping area.
No visitor to Hong Kong should miss the longest escalator in the world, the Central-Mid-Levels
Escalator and Walkway
System.
The Statue square at Central derives its name from the various effigies of
British royalty on display here that were spirited away by the
Japanese during the occupation. Only one statue actually remains, a bronze effigy of
Sir Thomas Jackson, a particularly successful
Victorian chief manager of the
Hongkong &
Shanghai Bank. The colonnaded and domed neoclassical building on the east side of
Statue Square was once the old
Supreme Court, built in 1912 as the seat of the
Legislative Council (
Legco).
St. John's Cathedral, an
Anglican church consecrated in 1849, is one of the very few colonial structures still standing in Central. Criticized for blighting the colony's landscape when it was first erected,
St John's is now lost in the forest of skyscrapers that make up Central. A short walk from Central, along
Hollywood Rd, is a temple, one of the oldest and most famous in Hong Kong, the
Man Mo Temple. A short distance west of Cat St, next to
Hollywood Road Park, is
Possession St., a historic landmark without a marker, the spot where the
British first landed in 1841. A short walk from here to Morrison St is
Western Market, an Edwardian-style bldg built in
1906 as the
Harbour Office, another historic landmark, and now converted into an elegant shopping place for
Chinese arts and crafts.
A day's trip to the New Territories close to the Szenchen border of
China via the
Kowloon-Canton Railway led us to
Tai Po. The Tai Po district is one of the oldest settlements in HK, and gained fame as a market town and the home of the Tangs, one of the territory's original clans. A visit to
Lam Tsuen where we found the wishing tree, a huge but slowly dying banyan tree, led us to the
Tin Hau temple, dedicated to the
Goddess of
Heaven, and to the HK
Railway Museum. The museum is housed in the former
Tai Po Market train station, built in 1913 in traditional Chinese style. Exhibits, including a narrow-gauge steam locomotive dating back to
1911, detail the history of the development of rail transport in the territory.
The street-long outdoor wet market in Tai Po is a stone's throw from the
Museum, one of the busiest and most interesting markets in the New Territories. Towards the northern end of the same street is the double-hall Man Mo Temple, founded in the late
19th century and is dedicated to the gods of literature and of war.
From Taiwo station, the next train stop is
Fanling. "Fanling" literally means ridge of powder, and the place was named after a holy rock found here, which according to legend brings rains. Just outside the station is a cluster of beautiful structures, the Fung Yin
Seen Koon
Taoist temple built in 1929. From here, we took the next train stop to
Sheung Shui, close to the Chinese border at
Shenzhen, to visit the cultural gem of HK,
Tai Fu Tai Mansion, a fine example of traditional Chinese dwellings of the scholar-gentry class. This ancient mansion was probably built in 1865 in the reign of the
Qing Dynasty, as the residence of Man Chung-luen whose ancestors had settled in San Tin since the
15th century.
The best thing about being in Hong Kong is getting smothered by the confluences and contradictions of a
Chinese city with multi-Asian and
Western elements. A couple of blocks northeast of the
Jade Market is a temple dedicated to
Tin Hau, the goddess of seafarers. The Tin Hau temple complex along famous
Nathan Road houses an altar dedicated to
Shing Wong, the god of the city, and to To Tei, the earth god, and a row of fortune-tellers. Not very far is the famous night market at
Temple St., and Jade Market at Shanghai St.
- published: 09 Jan 2008
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