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Seven great Scotch whiskies you may not know
Aberfeldy
For something on the subtle and delicate side, try Aberfeldy. The distillery was established in 1898 by the Dewar brothers, and Aberfeldy is still a signature malt component for the popular blend that bears their family name. The soft, peaches and pears 12 year old is now easy to come by, while the 21 year old is obtainable with a bit more effort. Effort well spent, because it’s such an elegant, floral, honeyed experience. Photo: Supplied -
Balblair
Balblair is one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries, and the single malt it produces – uniquely bottled in vintages – has malty, fruity, spicy notes often accompanied by a hint of saltiness depending on the expression. A range of vintages are released, with the 2000 vintage the most commonly available in Australia, but look out for the 1989 which takes things to another level – at a reasonable price, too (around $165). Photo: Supplied -
GlenDronach
If you like fruitcake, raisins and toffee, GlenDronach is your dram. It’s one of the best examples of a classic sherry cask single malt whisky, and through the core range, from the 12, 18 and 21 year olds, you’ll find a rich, full-bodied nuttiness on display. The ‘Wood Finishes’ expressions, where the spirit has been finished in casks that previously held Sauternes, Tawny Port and Madeira, are also worth seeking out. But for full GlenDronach glory, you have to try some of the highly-regarded single cask bottlings. Photo: Supplied -
Edradour
The Edradour Distillery, long marketed as Scotland’s smallest (though several recently built distilleries now vie for the mantle) produces minuscule amounts of whisky compared to its Scottish counterparts – or about the same amount as one of Australia’s largest producers, Hellyers Road in Tasmania. You’ll find the flagship 10 year old – robust, nutty and slightly smoky – at good retailers, while the Ballechin, a heavily peated release, is harder to come by, but as with other limited Edradour bottlings, definitely worth pursuing. Photo: Supplied -
Springbank
You can include the Hazelburn and Longrow single malts under the Springbank Distillery banner, as all three are produced at this very traditional, utterly unique facility in Scotland’s south-western tip. Each single malt undergoes its own distilling regime, and the malt used for each whisky is also peated to varying degrees. Thus, the Hazelburn expressions are lighter and unpeated (no smoky character), the Springbank is mildly peated and a bit heavier, and the Longrow is heavily peated and very pungent. You almost get the whole gamut of Scottish malt whisky under one roof, and indeed, Springbank is the only distillery in Scotland to complete the entire whisky making process for its entire portfolio under that one roof. Photo: Supplied -
Bunnahabhain
Onwards to the Isle of Islay off the Scottish west coast; the island famed for the smokiest, most medicinal malt whiskies. And yet, the Bunnahabhain Distillery breaks the mould. Where once it only produced heavily peated whisky, now the majority of its production leans the other way, and the current core range, consisting of a 12, 18 and 25 year old, are all unpeated (and all still hugely flavourful). But back in 2003, Bunnahabhain began producing small amounts of peated whisky true to Islay form. And if you love a big, bold smoky malt, try the equally unpronounceable Toiteach, Ceobanach and Cruach-Mhona expressions. Photo: Supplied -
Kilchoman
Kilchoman, another Islay distillery, was the first to be constructed on the island in over 125 years when it was established in 2005. Its design pays tribute to the old farm operations that the majority of the distilleries on the island grew out of, and in this fashion, the Kilchoman 100 per cent Islay release is created entirely from barley which is grown near to the site the distillery occupies. The flagship Machir Bay expression is slightly different. It takes its malted barley from Islay’s primary malting facility, the Port Ellen Maltings, which are peated to the same specifications as Ardbeg’s. And if that seaweed, band-aid-like flavour is to your likening, then definitely seek out the Kilchoman Machir Bay. Photo: Supplied
The wait is over. Amid all the chatter of whisky shortages and no-age-statement scandals, the Scots have finally managed to win a major gong, with the Old Pulteney Distillery's 1989 Vintage taking out World's Best Single Malt Whisky at the World Whiskies Awards in London last week.
A number of competitions and opinion makers have overlooked the Scottish whisky category in recent years, long the world's dominant premium whisky producer. So with this win, has the whisky world finally returned to order? Or has the malt whisky category changed irrevocably?
Scottish quo
Producers from the US, Ireland, Asia and Australia have certainly disrupted the Scottish quo. Disrupted, but by no means overshadowed it. Of course, the Scots have been winning these things for years. They recognise, like most producers, that accolades like this are great for press and brand recognition, but are mainly aimed at making us think about what great whisky tastes like, and where great whisky might come from.
As for the notion that one single whisky can confidently strut around as 'the world's best'? That, I've always found odd. Fun, and great for benchmarking. But odd – surely the human palate is too fallible and too diverse to agree on such a notion.
Breadth, quality and value
Equally odd are the reports that the world is running out of whisky, particularly the Scottish variety. Yes, stocks of market-leading brands are being tested, some age statement whiskies are vanishing, and a few experienced whisky drinkers might successfully argue that Scottish whiskies aren't what they used to be – an expected consequence of the boom and bust cycle of aged spirits.
But one of the strengths of the Scottish whisky industry is still the sheer breadth, quality and value it offers, traits that competitions often fail to countenance. In working with over 600 single malts week-in-week-out, it's this aspect of the Scottish malt whisky world that I'm constantly humbled by (and obviously biased towards).
My humble advice – bypass the hype and accompanying 'investment' bollocks that awards help to enshrine. After all, whisky is made to be drunk, and there are so many fine Scottish malt whiskies out there to be discovered.
To prove my point, scroll through the gallery for a taster of some lesser-known, overlooked Scotch whisky gems well worth seeking out over the holidays.
Or watch this 'Whisky 101' video:
What's your favourite obscure gem? Let us know in the comments section.
A professional barman in one of Australia's most revered whisky establishments, Luke McCarthy has also travelled the world to learn more about the spirits he serves. The result is two parts drinks culture and one part global trends, served with a dash of critical assessment.
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