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Entry from:
Sao Tome,
Sao Tome and Principe
Entry
Title: "
Republica Democratica de Sao Tome e Principe-181th"
Entry:
"This is my second visit to the Tropicana hotel complex in
Gabon's capital
Libreville, and it was a little bit like homecoming.Same waiter to serve the grilled capitaine fish fillet, same driver who greets me in the morning, and even on the "Embaixada" von
Sao Tome&Principe;, they were most expecting me, I still had the visa application form with me.The visa fee now is 40,
000 CFA, and a few days later I'm in off to the former
Portuguese colony (now an independant state) of Sao Tome&Principe;,my 181th country!
The archipelago was discovered by portuguese seafarer in 1469, a group headed by
Joao de Santaren and
Pedro Escobar, and first named after them.
Portuguese settlers followed , they colonized the islands, with the help of slaves that they shipped here from
Angola in order to work on the cacao- and coffee plantations as cheap workforce.There was less social unrest and revolutionary movements than in Angola and
Mocambique,but still, the brutal dictatorship of the portuguese governors became apparent in putting down bloody rebellions like on the 3rd of february
1953 when many locals were killed.Photos of this important event are still on display in the old
Fort museum in SaoTome.In all corners of the country,there is still much evidence of the
500 year long portuguese presence,in form of colonial buildings, ancient plantation houses (some of them carefully renovated and used as pension houses for tourists) or the number of portuguese expats settling down on the islands to enjoy the warm hospitality and pleasant climat of the island group.There is direct air links between Sao Tome and
Lisboa with several companies.There is also regular flights to Libreville,
Lagos,
Malabo and
Luanda.The main attraction of Sao Tome are its crystal clear beaches, so I rent a
Suzuki Jeep (with Turiart Lda) to drive to the south, leaving the capital via the fishing village of
Pantufo.Its worth to stop here and look around for a while.After 80km, I reach the village of
Porto Alegre, it was a 3 hours drive, the road partially in catastrophic condition. Quite near is the most idylic beach of Sao Tome, the photogenic "
Praia Jale", a deserted stripe of golden sandy beach, in the southwest corner of the island.Fortunately, there are a few simple cottages here for 25 euros a day, no electricity, just like in Goa or in Boracay 30 years ago.More luxurious is the nearby "Pestana
Equador" hotel (the pool is absolutely beautiful) on the island of
Rolas where the equator line is crossing right thru the middle of the island.There is a monument and a lookout
point,a short
15 minutes walk on a hill above the hotel complex. Another mandatory stop is the "
Roca Sao Joao dos Angolares", a real bijou of an old plantation villa, a very friendly owner, famous for his traditional cooking style, as well as his artistic talent.His assistant is
Tita, a charming local beauty,who shows me around on the compound, including the tastefully decorated bedrooms, they go at 25 to 30 euros per night.I decide to eat lunch here,its the menu "sorpresa", everything comes as a surprise, refined "nouvelle cuisine" a la Angolares, small portions, 10 courses, mostly seafood and vegetables, no meat.
Plus the smile of Tita, unforgetable! Another excursion is from Sao Tome to the northwest coast via Guadelupe, at km18 is the attractive "Praia Concha" (shellbeach), deserted, just some fishing folk.In
Neves I head straight for the "Bar Santoli", asking the local police for direction.Its a very known place for fresh seafood, especially crabs.The policeman later on joins me for lunch.
Back in my hostel, just on time for the blackout.
It happens every day for several hour.
The country has problems with the delivery of crude oil from Angola.But for the grand opening of the "Beach
Club", a new disco complex in the Pestana Sao
..."
Read and see more at: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tom-of-boracay/5/1229257680/tpod.html
Photos from this trip:
1. "Angolares-cacao plantation"
2. "
Island of Rolas, equator monument"
3. "Pestana Equador hotel"
4. "Roca
Sao Joao dos Angolares-Tita"
5. "Sao Tome-my home for a week"
6. "Sao Tome-Praia Concha"
7. "Sao Tome-Praia Jale"
8. "Sao Tome-the old portuguese fort"
9. "Sao Tome-village scene in the south"
10. "Sao Tome:
Aids campaign the african way!"
11. "Sao Tome: catch of the day!"
12. "Sao Tome: flight back to Gabon"
13. "Sao Tome:colonial building"
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- published: 01 Dec 2010
- views: 2948