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March 2010 - Posts

Pope’s beans and purple mashed potatoes

These Peruvian beans, called fagioli del papa in Italian, have a robust flavor and a dramatic color. This was just a quick-and-dirty weeknight preparation, so I don’t even remember exactly how I seasoned it, but I know I used za’atar, onions, garlic, Read More...
Posted Wednesday, March 31, 2010 11:16 PM by jason | 1 Comments

Gobodoki in roasted gobo soup

Ganmodoki , a deep-fried tofu dumpling, are kind of a staple of Kyoto-style tofu cuisine, and find their way into nimono, among other things. I’ve made them before , but this time, I took a slightly different route. Inspired by a crazy cheap deal on burdock Read More...
Posted Tuesday, March 30, 2010 10:03 PM by jason | 0 Comments

It’s spring, so it must be time for warabi

The last couple of weekends we’ve been taking advantage of the fiddlehead fern fronds found at Sosio’s. Go get them before they disappear for the rest of the year! We’ve been preparing them using our usual nimono- style treatment… Blanch briefly in a Read More...
Posted Monday, March 29, 2010 9:00 AM by jason | 0 Comments
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Orange scones with blood orange jam

For years, I was impressed more by the idea of scones than the reality of scones. It’s mostly because I made the mistake of buying them at coffee shops, where they cost about $3 and generally taste stale and tough and excessively sweet. They typically Read More...
Posted Sunday, March 28, 2010 9:43 PM by jason | 2 Comments

Satsumaimo soufflé

So I’ve had this dangerous affinity for meringues in the last year or so. I like them on cakes and pies, I like them on savory dishes, and I sometimes like them all by themselves. This occasionally results in something approaching culinary genius, but Read More...
Posted Saturday, March 27, 2010 12:27 AM by jason | 0 Comments
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Famous for 15 minutes again

I’ve had a few brushes with fleeting, mostly inconsequential fame. My very first letter to the editor was published when I was about 14 years old in Knoxville, Tennessee. Something that was ostensibly my own writing, heavily edited, was first “published” Read More...
Posted Thursday, March 25, 2010 11:03 PM by jason | 0 Comments
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Pseudo-samosas with repurposed colcannon, and cranberry bean cakes with pear chutney

No matter how hard we try, the two of us cannot eat a large pot of what amounts to be little more than mashed potatoes, regardless how many greens are involved. So I decided to repurpose the leftovers a little bit. I melted some butter in a 6” skillet Read More...
Posted Tuesday, March 23, 2010 11:19 PM by jason | 0 Comments
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Morels with homemade fettuccini

We self-indulgently bought a pasta roller last summer. It’s a single-purpose device, and I don’t have many items like that, at least not when they take up as much room as that, but pasta is a staple food for us and I wanted to have a tool that made it Read More...
Posted Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:00 PM by jason | 1 Comments
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Okonomiyaki with gobo, okonomiyaki with pork

As a vegetarian, I don’t eat the most common variations of okonomiyaki, which involve pork or other animal bits. I’m quite fine with the “modern yaki”, as one Tokyo restaurant called their wackier, contemporary spins on the dish; okonomiyaki is really Read More...
Posted Monday, March 22, 2010 10:16 PM by jason | 0 Comments

Stuffed red chard

We have a somewhat implicit bias favoring simple, seasonal food that requires minimal forethought, but generally I’m willing to do a bit more work to step up the drama. But it’s nice when it’s really just a little extra work. Gefüllte Mangoldblätter, Read More...
Posted Monday, March 22, 2010 12:21 AM by jason | 0 Comments

Almost Irish

OK, I’m a little late getting around to posting St. Patrick’s Day food, but let’s just say we were busy eating. While my family tends to identify mostly with the small ostensibly Italian fragment of our ethnicity, mostly thanks to the way most of us look, Read More...
Posted Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:01 PM by jason | 2 Comments

Improvised pumpkin seed tuiles

We had a nice dinner tonight, but it wasn’t terribly heavy, and I was craving something sweet to finish the evening. I was thinking a thin cookie would do the trick, so I remembered the basic tuile ratio, which is roughly 2 fat : 2 flour : 1 sugar : 1 Read More...
Posted Tuesday, March 16, 2010 11:15 PM by jason | 1 Comments

Chickpeas and Spanish paprika

I recently mentioned my weakness for the seductive smokiness of Spanish paprika. It turns out that, in my kitchen, precious little of my supply ever makes it into anything remotely resembling proper Spanish cuisine. But there are occasional exceptions. Read More...
Posted Sunday, March 07, 2010 11:39 PM by jason | 0 Comments

Hedgehog mushrooms and shallots

Someone may eventually convince me otherwise, but I’m pretty sure that most wild Northwest mushrooms benefit the most from a minimalist treatment. I’ve found no better confirmation of this than the chanterelle, and the similar, but slightly homelier hedgehog Read More...
Posted Monday, March 01, 2010 11:27 PM by jason | 0 Comments
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