Watching the pea tendrils curling up to the sun, Sputnik arugula, &
radishes start to look like a pond of lily pads. A quiet moment in all
the social outings of late. Speaking of which, I tried some great wines
at my first Taste of Washington & incredible local ciders. I'll see
what I can do about getting my hands on some of
Gosh, what else have I been up to. I tasted many a fine French wine
at
yesterday, and even drove myself. I definitely came upon some great
deals for us all. Which leads me to two new 6 pack offerings: Ooh La La
& Mama Mia. You pick the price & I'll select from the best
bargains from France & Italy. Don't forget this is a wine
newsletter, so keep scrolling to see what I have up my sleeve this week.
Don't miss the new French wines I have on special & great Easter
pairings!
And don't forget you can taste with me & enjoy food pairing at
TWO upcoming wine dinners...more details below. Taste local glory at
Seth Caswell's
on April 20th.
so please become a
fan!!!! It's
where to stay ahead of the curve on events, new wines I'm recommending,
& general food gossip. I keep up with gourmand Twittering for you...
Oh yeah,
there too.
______________________________
_________________
UPCOMING
EVENTS
Emmer & Rye! Tuesday April 13th 6:30 reception,
7:00 dinnerSeasonally inspired, locally derived cuisine paired
with small producer wines
5 courses plus amouse, 6 wines $65 (plus tax & tip)
We
will have the entire upper floor of this gorgeous restored Victorian in
upper Queen Anne.
Chef & owner Seth Caswell is president of
Seattle
Chefs Collaborative and his passion has found its roots in this
welcoming space.
Wines will span the globe, with special emphasis on
small producers that share our passion for the sustainable & the
flavor of terroir.
Queso y Vino Wine Dinner
April 13, 2010
amuse bouche
creamy parsnip shooter,
nettle-mint puree, toasted hazelnuts
first
scallop crudo, chiogga
beets, mizuna
second
hazelnut-fed pork belly,
heirloom beans, foraged greens
third
columbia river salmon,
emmer&rye, asparagus
fourth
cider-braised pork
shoulder,
collard green, turnips
fifth
rhubarb semifreddo Photo credit goes to the Wrights: check out their delicious review of Emmer & Rye here.
Harvest
Vine wine & tapas April 20th
Finalizing details, but
seats are already filling up!
Taste some of my new favorite
finds from throughout Spain, along with individual small plates (which
means more pairing fun!) from chef Joey Serquinia. Last dinner here I
was in the hospital, so I can't wait to celebrate my return with all of
you at Madison Valley's exquisite Basque Restaurant. If you've never
been, now's your chance to enjoy Harvest Vine in a really special &
intimate way.
Pictures of the space we'll be in! Man, I'm sorry I
missed this event, although I see my friends the Wrights didn't!!! See
their
amazing
food blog for mouth-watering pictures and advance foodie new, plus
more pictures of Emmer & Rye!
Here's a wonderful article on the trials &
continued life of this beloved gastronomic gem.
__________________________________________________
TALGLIATELLE AI PORRI Tagliatelle with Leek Sauce
from La Cucina di Lidia by Lidia Bastianich & Jay Jacobs
I love Lidia's recipes, & this book specializing on
Northern Italian dishes emphasizes Istrian cuisine which takes its
influence from Yugoslavia & Hungary. With sweet spring leeks showing
up in the market, this dish seemed like a natural segway into the
farmer's market flavors with a touch of heartiness still sticking to the
ribs with the addition of sausage to fresh feather weight pasta. This
dish hails from Piacenza, from the Latin "to please".
Serves
4
2 sweet Italian sausages
2
Tbs coarse salt, or to taste
2 Large leeks
2 Tbs olive oil
1
tsp minced shallot
4 Tbs unsalted butter
1 cup chicken stock
Salt
& freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb fresh tagliatelle
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano, & more for
table
Grill the
sausages, slice them thin, & set aside.
Bring 6 quarts water to a
boil with 2 Tbs coarse salt, or to taste, & start the sauce as soon
as the water is on the stove.
Trim the leeks & discard the top 1/3 of tough green portion. Slice
the remainder in 1/2"-thick rounds, & rinse in several changes of
cold water to remove all soil & grit. Drain well.
Ina large
skillet, heat the olive oil, add the leeks, & saute over moderately
high heat, stirring until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the reserved
sausages & the shallot, & cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add half the
butter & the stock, & simmer genbtly 5 minutes. Season to
taste.
Add the tagliatelle to the boiling water, stirring with a wooden
spoon.The pasta will be done as soon as the water returns to the boil,
1/2 to 1 minute. Drain the pasta well, add the leek sauce, & toss
well to coat the pasta with sauce. Add the remaining butter &
sprinkle with cheese. Toss well & serve with additional cheese on
the side.
_____________
THIS
WEEK'S QUESO Y VINO WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
I
offer a 10% discount on whole or mixed cases, free delivery for orders
over $150, smaller orders will be conveniently & gladly delivered to
you for the nominal fee of $10. Start a buying club & I'll waive
the delivery fee! Ask me if you'd like to arrange a free
pick up at the Saturday University
Farmer's Market or Sunday at the Ballard
Farmer's Market or the West Seattle Farmer's Market. We're usually there
from a window of 10:30 until noon depending on our order requests, and
can be around to meet you before or after your market shopping.
Easter
Whites, Sparkling, Lamb wines & Rose's!
Ninet de Pena
Viognier 2007, Rousillon $7.99
(reg. $12.99)
This Viognier shows off its Catalan heritage with the Picasso-esque
label. From a coop of five growers, this winery is situated 10 miles
from Perpignan, a wind-swept region in the south of France. At this
price, you could be like the locals & drink it out of a porron!
Floral & fruity Vionier, with pineapple, mango & peach tropical
fruit. Pleasantly soft, yet with crisp mineral accents, only the
slightly nutty finish gives away its vintage. A spring deal to be sure.
La Fiera Pinot Grigio 2009, Veneto $8.99
"We're captive on the
carousel of time" --Joni Mitchell. Here's to
one captivating Pinot Grigio! This is not rocket science, but after
tasting
this fair Pinot (pardon the pun) and think of how many disappointing
PG's I've
had in Italian restaurants I wonder, why??? You don't have to pay a lot
to get
a great Pinot Grigio, you just need a good source. The Botter family
knows
their stuff. They are 3rd generation wine makers, with a rebirth in 2000
under
son Luca who has gone with environmentally friendly practices. What
really
makes the difference here is that the grapes are immediately pressed and
cooled
after picking.Very fragrant nose of ice box peaches, soft, smooth,
satiny
crenshaw melons. Along with one of the $10 Chardonnays I've mentioned of
late,
this is a sure bet wedding wine of the summer, and generally great
quaffer to
have around the house. Funny,
Zazou just came on the iPod, the gypsy swing band we
had at
our pastoral wedding in Poulsbo!
Las Valles
Macabeo/Chardonnay, Carinena
$9.99
Bodegas
Virgen del Aguila 'Virgin of the Eagle' is the name of the Cooperative
where Handpicked Selections sources this wine. The title fits the
vineyards, the highest in Carinena at almost 3000 feet, climbing up
from south of Zaragoza. This is Aragon, a large, poor, historically
important region of Spain known for its small population of hearty
people. 80% Macabeo, 20% Chardonnay. Macabeo, which is widely planted
in northern Spain, brings citrus character and a smooth texture, while
the Chardonnay provides tropical fruit and mouthwatering acidity.
Graham
Beck Chardonnay/Viognier 2007, Western
Cape $9.99I am so glad to have broadened my geographical
wine horizons, especially after tasting a wine as fine as this. For me,
this is an instant go-to recommendation for parties, weddings, and if
you haven't tried a white wine from South Africa, this is a great
opportunity to open up your wine horizons. Graham Beck is a third
generation family estate, and Graham Beck himself is dedicated to
bringing black South Africans into the wine industry, winning awards for
revolutionary initiatives to improve the lives of their workers and
families. This wine looks like it is all dressed up and ready to go to a
wedding,
but it's price will save you a bundle of money to spend on the
honeymoon!
Urban Uco
Torrontes 2009, Salta $9.99
Need
a little shot of summer in your glass right about now? Let the good
times roll with Urban Uco.
I'm sometimes surprised at how many requests
I get for Torrontes even in the dead of winter, but it's such a
wonderful food wine that the reason is beginning to dawn on me and am
on the lookout for great ones. This Torrontes is like a cross between a
Pinot Gris and a Gewurtztraminer which makes it an exotic choice. The
floral tropical bouquet is everything a Torrontes lover adores, peachy
chin-dribbling juice, and a minerally little zipper of a finish.
Modern, fun, and sure to put a spring in your step. Pair with the Gotan
Project.
Tabali Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Limari Valley $10.99 (reg. $12.99)
Be
on the forefront of a new wine, and a fresh region! You may not be
thinking about white wine much right now, but this is the best
inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc I've tried and I would love to be the one
to turn you on to it. We served this up at home with some stir-fried
Taiwanese Garlic Tofu and Minced Chicken and were in seventh-heaven.
Pink grapefruit and clementine abound, bright and snappy, with a
seductive scent of rose petals that lingers in the glass after the wine
is gone. It's always nice to have a
reasonable year-round white to recommend and this has my major stamp of
approval, and the points to back it up. They say the Valley is magical,
and I would have to agree.
“The 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva is a great value. It exhibits a
fragrant bouquet of mineral, passion fruit, and citrus. This leads to a
mouth-watering, vibrant, lengthy Sauvignon that way over-delivers for
its humble price. Tabali is producing high quality wines from the newly
developing cool-climate region of Limari." -
90 Points, Robert
Parker’s
Wine Advocate
Bielsa Garnacha Vinas Viejas 2008, Campo
de Borja $11.99
I saw this wine first in Portland at a
Pastaworks & was intrigued. Good stuff. From a coop of some of the
region's best growers, next to the stony Moncayo region. Interesting,
Alto Moncayo fans! This is definitely an example of the ripeness that
this appellation produces, with sweet & pure red raspberry &
black plum fruit, a concentrated frame, but earthy/licoricey black
pepper character. A great new find.
Fico Prosecco, Veneto
$12.99Bring on Spring! We popped this open to try with some
Korean tacos & it went hand in hand, even though that blend of
cultures is quite a mouthful. This is ready for a pile of cured meats
& cheeses. I've written about the Botter family's achievements in
the past & this Prosecco is grown on the hills of Venice, where I
hope to return to some day. Their Proseco vines benefit from over 25
years of age, but this bubbly has a lovely youthful vernal feel. Dry
white peaches, light on its feet, fine bubbles. Not to be confused with
sweeter styles. You could definitely have this with prosciutto-wrapped
figs.
Torres
Vina Esmeralda 2008, Catalunya $12.99
This wine always
represents spring in a bottle to me, & Gewurtz is such a lovely
pairing with holiday fare. A big company, but a special wine. An unusual
Spanish blend of Moscatel & Gewurtraminer, this is Catalunya's
answer to Riesling. Refreshingly clean, floral & potent, this
bounces open with a flourish of orange creamsicles, zesty minerals,
& everything a ham could love. Tie these roses & lilies with a
ribbon, & let the bouquet take a bow to your Easter feast.
90 points, Guia Campsa (and they're TOUGH)
Tenuta Cocevola Rosso
Coevola Vero di Troia 2006, Castel del Monte $13.99
Can I
be transported there right now, please? "The Tenuta is located within a
garden of sumptuous meadows & Mediterranean undergrowth." Puglia is
the heel of the boot, & the wines from here are getting better all
the time.The grape Nero di Troia (of which this wine is 100%) is known
for its good acidity, finesse, elegance & richness. I found a glass
brimming with boysenberry, raspberry, earthy plums & blackberry,
anchored by a trail of ash. Nice lively acid, balanced body, dried plum
authenticity: "good stuff" I penned.
Vevi 2008, Rueda $13.99
Vevi is like the fireworks of forsythia blooming on the crest of my
lawn: a golden harbinger of spring. A lovely new Verdejo with some Viura
to round it out, this is as clean as its package. Explodes with Pomelo,
Buddha's Hand citron, & a zesty punch. Super crisp style, I loved
it with saag paneer & a chickpea/eggplant side on our dinner table.
Absolutely refreshing, clean, & affordable. Oak lovers, there's
nothing for you here.
Les Vins de Vienne Remeage Rhone Blanc, Rhone
Valley $13.99
The back label on this reads, "Sensual", and I would have to agree
100%. I fell for this sultry white in a big way, including the small price
which
is a result of direct importing. If the wines of Seyssuel have
been forgotten, this surely puts them on my map. Pretty-as-a-picture
Marsanne & Viognier with nectar-like peach, a caressing palate of
rose petals, with minerals and verve at the finish. I have never like a
reasonably priced French white this much. A direct import that is a
direct steal.
Cuatro
Rayas 2008, Rueda $13.99
In a time when Verdejo is being increasingly blended to taste, this is a
wine
that brought me straight back to Rueda, where I was first introduced to
Tortilla Espanola the way it's meant to be. "What makes this so
good?" I asked the winemakers between forkfuls. "Well, the potatoes
are from down the road, the eggs were laid this morning, the local bar
made
this." My husband has become a master tortilla maker (ask him for his
secrets when you get your next wine order!) and this white paired up
beautifully with a midweek
pobre dinner. Heck, I felt rich!
Pomelo,
lemon oil, & tangerine make this stunningly vibrant, and we threw in
a
Caesar salad on the side with some chickpea/meatball soup... Seventh
heaven.
Graham Beck Brut NV,
Stellenbosch
$14.99
A.k.a.known
as "Yes, we can!" wine... What did new President-elect Barack Obama pop
open before he addressed the world at Grant Park? This fantabulous
Brut from South Africa!!! The Obama's discovered this sparkling wine
at the recommendation of a sommelier at their favorite restaurant in
Chicago, Blackbird, (hey, I've been there!) & then ordered six
bottles for November 4th. Not only was Graham Beck used to commemorate
this historic election in the US, but it was also the celebratory drink
at the inauguration of South Africa's first democratically elected
president, Nelson Mandela.
Winemaker Pieter Ferreira studied his bubble-making at Krug before
returning to South Africa & joining Graham Beck--impressive
pedigree! This Brut is made in the Cap Classique tradition with Pinot
Noir & Chardonnay, & sings with apple & pear, freshly
buttered brioche, & ginger biscuits. What a way to celebrate...
Cristalino
Brut Nature Vintage Cava 2005, $14.99 750 ml, $15.99 Magnums!!!
Okay,
so everybody & their brother knows about Cristalino,
but I hadn't
seen their single vintage bottling since a tasting at their winery in
Spain! This is special stuff, as they age for 30 months on the lees,
& add 30% Chardonnay, half of which has been aged in oak.
Intriguing notes of egg custard, toasty pears, & smokiness--this
cava is completely unique. These are serious bubbles with a
long-lasting austere grapefruit/lime finish with almost a
Manzanilla-ish quality. Wow, pretty cool stuff.
So here's the deal with the magnum price--magnums of the regular
Cristalino Brut were supposed to arrive, but didn't, so the
distributor
had to match the price. Normally the magnums of their Vintage Brut go
for $20 wholesale--you'd be silly to pass this deal up!!!
El
Perro Verde Verdejo 2007, Rueda $14.99
Verdejo
lovers, I've got
something else new for you!!! I guarantee that
once
the temperature rises you will see this label around town--it's an
eye-catcher.
Turquoise hounds chase a monarch across a pastel yellow field... Guava
fruit
perfume, zesty yet round, this is like catching the juice of a cantelope
that's
been split open into your glass. Get ready to taste spring!
"Light yellow. Subtle orchard fruits on the nose, with a suave tangerine
note emerging with aeration. Nervier lime and orange zest on the palate,
which
offers good fleshy texture and gentle mineral lift. Gains heft on the
finish,
which features musky yellow plum and succulent herbal qualities. An
impressive
blend of power and verve."
-90 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine CellarBenaza
Godello 2008, Monterrei $14.99
I've never seen a
wine here from Monterrei, even though it appears to have become a DO in
'96. This wine also contains a grape I've never seen listed called
"Dona Blanca". Cool! Monterrei borders on Portugal, in the valleys of
the Tamega River--it has a different climate than other Galician DO's as
it is warm & dry, which can be tasted in the wine. Benaza uses
30-50
year old vines, so this Godello has wonderful weight. Stonefruits,
apricot, & white nectarines flood from the glass, with zingy &
spicy citrus rind, plus zesty minerals. An absolutely delightful wine
I'm taken with...
La Cana Albarino 2008, Rias
Baixas
$15.99
Relax into the zen side of Albarino... This is a new project of the Gil
family of Jumilla along with Jorge Ordonez and I look forward to this
varietal even in the turning point of the seasons. Albarino has always
been my winter white of choice. Floral lychees and apricots spin a
Galician/Celtic tale laced with an ocean of minerals lapping the shore.
Smooth & petal soft but exuding the graceful fragrance of Albarino.
Can't wait to drink this with one of the dishes out of my new Taiwanese
cookbook,
Blue Eye Dragon.
Chateau Paradis Rouge
Tradition 2006, Coteaux d'Aix
$16.99
This wine is so good with grilled lamb I could scream! From the lovely
town of Aix en Provence, this 45 acres estate indeed looks like a
"little piece of paradise". I visited Aix on my poetry fellowship &
was astounded by the fairy tale quality of this walled village. I even
visited a restaurant where there was a swing perched in the middle of
the dining room. Pardise indeed. This is ripe & sexy with firm anise
notes, jammed with blueberry & blackberry. Cab, Syrah, &
Grenache. A solid earthy mouthful that loves rosemary & herbal
flavors.
Schroedel Brut Rose, Cremant d'Alsace $17.99
Schroedel is
a family estate and this is 100% Pinot Noir--yeah, baby. Tingly
minerals meet with guava and quince for a perfect spring glass pour at
Chez
Vous. Easter brunch, Easter brunch, Easter brunch!
Fitz-Ritter
Riesling Extra Trocken Sekt, Pfalz $19.99 (reg. $21.99)
Sekt
means "sparkling wine" in this region of the world, and this bubbly is
one of the most fascinating & delightful finds I've come upon
lately... A bottle that screams spring, Fitz-Ritter will satisfy wine
geeks along with all your Easter brunch guests.
This is
100%
old-vine Riesling from the sunny micro-climate of the Middle-Haardt
region. The family has been producing since 1785, & is one of the
earliest producers of Sekt, now on its 8th generation. One of the oldest
producers in the Pfalz, this scenic winery is graced with almond trees
planted between the vineyards.
Just another lovely fact
about it.
It was instant love for me. Salty, springy, & ever-so floral, this
has acidity in spades to make it an intellectual's quaff, or a truly
versatile food wine. I am so excited to sell this!
![Laroche](http://web.archive.org./web/20160430082540im_/http://madeleine.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341c584d53ef01347fad52f1970c-120wi)
Laroche
Chablis 1er
Cru
Les Fourchaumes VV 2006, Chablis $60 "...the
Laroche '06s are wines with compelling freshness
and plenty of
Chablis character. They have largely avoided the exotic, superripe side
of the vintage." -Stephen Tanzer "
You're going to write about a $60
French wine?" querulously asked my husband. "
YES!" I
fervently
answered. I just love even thinking about it, and remembering the taste
in my mouth. The
Laroche family has been
producing wine since 1850,
going from 6 hectacres to 100. And in an uber-ripe vintage, winemaker
Bourdonnaye blocked 40% of maloactic fermentation to retain freshness.
My notes read, crenshaw melons & honeycrisp apples, luxurious
mouthfeel of lanolin and minerals. Ooooooo
"Bright, pale yellow. Fresh, perfumed nose
of lemon, ripe stone fruits and spices. Broad, rich and spicy but more
austere than the Vaillons. There's sweetness of fruit here but no sugary
impression and no heaviness. The alcohol here is just below 12.5%,
notes Bourdonnaye, which is quite low for a 2006 from this normally warm
premier cru. The lingering finish shows brown spices and a slight dry
edge."
-Stephen Tanzer
Didn't
find your perfect wine this week? Go with a
Specially
Selected Six-Pack!
This has been such a successful way to serve
you that I say we shall continue this tradition, holidays or not. You
pick the theme and price level you want to pay & I'll mix and match
from my favorites in the cellar. Limited quantities, thoughtfully
selected.
Choose your juice theme & your 6-pack price level:
Ooh
La La $60;
$75;
$100Mama Mia $60; $75;
$100
The
Pride of Portugal $60; $75;
$100
Savor South America $60; $75
Celebrate
Spain $60; $75; $100
Great
Grenache $60; $75; $100
Throwing
a Party $50; $60; $75; $100
I have created a
tip jar (click on link to the upper left), and I hope if you get
something from my writing but don't want to order anything--maybe a
recipe idea for an upcoming dinner, or wine advice that you put to use
elsewhere--
I hope you'll slip a couple of bucks in the jar from
time to time. It's like sending your pledge money to public
radio, only I don't interrupt the airwaves for a fund drive.Thank you
& enjoy!!!!!!