This is a follow up video to better explain High Voltage Without Power Supply I. Please note this is not an Over Unity Video. There are no claims of more output than input. The video illustrates the different methods for using a stator motor for Motor/Generator/SSG experiments. These experiments are a followup to discussions on popular energy forums and are not suggestions for people to make battery chargers based on this technology. You must be familiar with the Bedini technology, SSG circuit or other pulse charging technology before you can criticize or even fully understand what this video is about. This is not about just charging a battery. Yes, there are many ways to do that and some will certainly fit your purposes better than the pulse charging technology. Further the experiments here may not ever produce a real world application, but are intended to enhance people's hobby experience with these components. The usefulness of these experiments is based on an individuals knowledge of adapting the parts to their current energy experiments. Some have asked for the part numbers on the motors I use: Larger 3" Diameter AX060188B DNG16D21R32A DC 24V 2.7A 37 28BB Smaller 2.7" diameter rotor: AX06 0208C DGQ18HS01R24 DC 24 V 2W W 28 30ZA No manufacturer name. Just an added item of interest. The video below was a test I ran for a friend. The video is not a display of over unity but it does show a significant savings of current draw by adding a load to the generator coil. Enjoy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JmkuQliVWo Dr. Steven Greer @DrStevenGreer Do you know of or have a self-running free energy device? We have announced a $100,000 award for one! Go to http://www.siriusdisclosure.com/?p=2192 I'm really sorry to say getting these printer motors apart are a real task. There are so many different styles that the method can vary quit a bit also. The motors that I have been using will come apart if I hit the shaft with a heavy nylon mallet while pulling on the rotor as best I can. Keep in mind these motors seem to be assembled in a way that they are not adapt to mechanical repair. I have had some of these motors where the gear on the shaft is bigger than the inside diameter of the bearing, this is a problem that can be resolved in two ways. I put the rotor in my lathe with a live center in the end of the shaft, I then turn the gear down on the shaft until it is smaller than the inside diameter of the bearing, this usually allows the shaft and rotor to be knocked back. Another way to get the shaft out is to make a wooden block with a hole in it the size of the gear, you can then lay the motor down on the block and drive the shaft out from the back of the rotor. I use the lathe like a press to do this but a block and a brass drift which is a little smaller than the shaft could work. The rotor will come off as soon as the shaft is past the press fit in the rotor. The bad part about this is realigning the parts when you try to put them back together. I use a lock tight type material to help restore the press fit. In all cases it is advisable to polish the shaft with some emery cloth or sand paper for metal. You need to get the shaft a little looser in the bearings so you can get the rotor on and off for winding and experiments with the magnets. Once you have the rotor off you can use a small torch to heat the outside of the rotor and use a screw driver to peal the magnet away from the inside of the rotor. I don't know if this is of any help but I hope so. I've been trying to find time for a video but I don't know if I'll get to it. John

• published: 24 Apr 2011
• views: 1906272