- published: 06 Jan 2013
- views: 216521
Anodizing (also spelled anodising, particularly in the UK, India and Australia) is an electrolytic passivation process used to increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of metal parts.
The process is called anodizing because the part to be treated forms the anode electrode of an electrical circuit. Anodizing increases resistance to corrosion and wear, and provides better adhesion for paint primers and glues than does bare metal. Anodic films can also be used for a number of cosmetic effects, either with thick porous coatings that can absorb dyes or with thin transparent coatings that add interference effects to reflected light.
Anodizing is also used to prevent galling of threaded components and to make dielectric films for electrolytic capacitors. Anodic films are most commonly applied to protect aluminium alloys, although processes also exist for titanium, zinc, magnesium, niobium, zirconium, hafnium, and tantalum. Iron or carbon steel metal exfoliates when oxidized under neutral or alkaline microelectrolytic conditions; i.e., the iron oxide (actually ferric hydroxide or hydrated iron oxide, also known as rust) forms by anoxic anodic pits and large cathodic surface, these pits concentrate anions such as sulfate and chloride accelerating the underlying metal to corrosion. Carbon flakes or nodules in iron or steel with high carbon content (high carbon steel, cast iron) may cause an electrolytic potential and interfere with coating or plating. Ferrous metals are commonly anodized electrolytically in nitric acid, or by treatment with red fuming nitric acid, to form hard black ferric oxide. This oxide remains conformal even when plated on wire and the wire is bent.
I had to anodize a UNF threaded adapter made of aluminum alloy 6061-T6. I decided to try it at home and it worked flawlessly. Maybe my video could help somebody else. Be careful with the chemicals used here. Always wear appropriate protective equipment (gloves, glasses) and work in a well ventilated space. Don't breathe the fumes. Additional information for anodizing aluminum can be found here: http://www.bryanpryor.com/anodizing.php
Last summer I built a home anodizing set-up that is a little out of the ordinary. It greatly reduces the amount of dedicated space required to do my own anodizing by housing all of the equipment in an enclosure that doubles as a bench when not in use. This video outlines it's design and operation and includes a live demonstration of how it works. Here's a link to the build thread: http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9113.0.html
Here at MooreSport, we our proud to say we only use aircraft grade materials such as T6-6061 aluminium and Ti-6Al-4V titanium. These alloys are far superior to off the shelf materials at your local hardware store, however almost always require additional post treatments to reduce corrosion and galling. Anodizing the parts reduces the rate of oxidation (corrosion) as well as increasing wear resistance. In this video, you will see the complete anodizing process that is typical of a regular production run of our Motorsport grade adjustable camber plates *crédit music : "AcousticRock" de audionautix.com
Bill describes how metals like aluminum and titanium are made resistant to corrosion by growing an oxide layer into the metals. These is the same process used on many Apple products. This video is based on a chapter in the book Eight Amazing Engineering Stories; learn more at http://www.engineerguy.com/elements.
How to anodize aluminum in your garage.
Anodizing Aluminum. A short video showing how I anodize aluminum using the Low Current Density (LCD) method. I did not show all the rinsing steps but the parts do have to be rinsed thoroughly between tanks. http://www.VillainRideCo.com http://www.Facebook.com/VillainRideCo
Part 15 of my second 80% build. In this part I show my attempt to anodize the frame. Once again I was not able to achieve a perfect result and suspect it was due to a higher temperature of the anodize bath, which as far as I know should be around 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit. Battery Charger used: http://www.amazon.com/Century-87102C-Manual-Battery-Charger/dp/B000IJRG0U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid;=1438681066&sr;=8-6&keywords;=century+battery+charger+manual GP Plates (Lead cathode): http://www.caswellplating.com/gp-plates-8-x-8.html Titanium Wire used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6GLVZC?psc=1&redirect;=true&ref;_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This is a short description on how to electrochemically grow an anodic oxide film on steel in a hot caustic solution. The counter electrode (-) is an identical sample of sheet steel immersed on the left side of the beaker. Since it is seen on edge, it is not very apparent.
Anodizing a modified Picatinny/1913. Materials are - Sulphuric Acid (Battery Acid) Plastic Cooler 12v Battery RIT Dye There are a lot of resources with EXACT information on Anodizing, this is just to show how you can get good results with a simple and inexpensive setup.
After two PMs asking how I do my anodizing, I decided to show everyone. And then I decided to do a little giveaway.
The wind is the whisper of our mother the earth
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The sweet taste of love on a slow summer’s day
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The thunder of mountains, the roar of the sea
The wind is the taker and giver of mornings
The wind is the symbol of all that is free
So welcome the wind and the wisdom she offers
Follow her summons when she calls again
In your heart and your spirit let the breezes
surround you