Ani - Turkey Travel Video
Ani -
Turkey Travel Video.- Ani first rose to prominence in the
5th century A.D., as a hilltop fortress belonging to the
Armenian Kamsarakan
Dynasty. By the ninth century, the Kamsarakan possessions in
Eastern Anatolia had merged with the
Bagratid Dynasty, and in 956,
King Ashot III moved the Armenian capital to Ani. Shortly thereafter, the
Armenian Catholicos moved here as well, establishing the city as the undisputed center of
Armenia. The city grew rapidly, and by the eleventh century, the city boasted more than
100,
000 citizens. At its height of power and wealth, it became known as the
City of Forty
Gates and the City of a Thousand Churches.
Ani's golden age ended with the death of King Gagik in 1020, when Armenian power was split between his two sons. In a series of political events that define the word
Byzantine, the son who controlled Ani named the
Byzantine Emperor his heir, in an attempt to prevent an invasion. Upon his death, the Byzantine Emperor stated his claim upon the city, but the new
King of Ani reneged on the deal and repulsed the
Emperor's armies. But a mere three years later, following a series of
Armenian military defeats and a pro-Byzantine uprising in Ani, the city surrendered itself to Byzantine control.
All these machinations, however, were rendered moot in 1064 upon the arrival of the
Seljuk Turks, who took the city in 25 days and massacred the populace. Though the city lived on for another six and a half centuries, it remained a provincial town at the edge of competing empires for the rest of its history.
The Seljuk Turks passed possession of Ani to the
Kurdish Shaddadids, who were attacked repeatedly by the neighboring
Georgian Empire at the behest of Ani's unruly
Christian population. In 1199 the
Georgia's
Queen Tamar conquered the Shaddadids, and established the
Zakarid Dynasty of Ani, under which the city again prospered and rebuilt. Only to be devastated in 1236 by the invading
Mongol Hordes.
The Zakarids continued to govern the city as the vassals of various Turkic and
Persian Empires, culminating with the
Ottomans. Ani gradually faded into uninhabited ruins.
The Russian Empire took control of
Kars and the surrounding areas in the late
19th century, and the
Saint Petersburg Academy of Sciences oversaw a large archaeological and restorative effort until the
Russian Revolution in
1917.
The Russian scientists set up a huge museum on site of the artifacts excavated, principally in the Minuchihr mosque.
Following the Russian Revolution, and the founding of the short-lived
Republic of Armenia, the
Ottoman military drove east into the former
Russian territories, seeking to seize the region and to cleanse it of its ethnic
Armenians. Archaeologists from the Russian-led team scrambled to salvage what they could and fled to what is modern-day Armenia. During the
Turkish War of Independence, the
Grand National Assembly of Turkey ordered the commander of its
Eastern Front that the "monuments of Ani be wiped off the face of the earth." Fortunately, he didn't fully comply with this order, and the monuments remain. But the Russian excavations and repairs were
undone, and the site has languished under what can be most favorably described as neglect.
Modern History
Ani, from the time the Ottomans seized
Kars Province, has sat right upon the edge of one of the world's most hostile borders (between Turkey and the
Soviet Union, and later Armenia), and has been situated within a
Turkish military zone that precluded tourism. Fortunately, things have been cooling down between Turkey and Armenia, and militant
Turkish opposition to acknowledging these Armenian ruins as a destination of major tourist interest has subsided in recent years. (Although, you'll notice the
sign outside the main city gate, which lists all of the fifteen or so empires that have controlled the region, doesn't ever even mention the Armenians who built the city and wrote its history.)
The border, visible from the ruins, remains tense, but anyone can visit easily without any sort of permit, and photography restrictions are a thing of the (recent) past. The
Turkish government now makes friendly noises about preservation, restoration, and excavation, but still receives low marks from international
NGOs on the job it's doing.
Enjoy Your Ani - Turkey Travel Video!