THE MAUSOLEUM OF NAWAB WAJID ALI SHAH, THE LAST NAWAB OF AWADH:

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• published: 29 May 2015
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If you are fond of Biryani of Kolkata, you owe it to the last ruler of ‘Awadh’, Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who spent the last thirty one long years of his life right here in Kolkata after his exile by the British in 1856. The place is Metiabruz, a name which might have arrived from the word ‘Matia Burj’ meaning ‘mud fort’. This is the place in Kolkata which the Nawab made his new home. The Nawab also imported a small piece of Lukhnow here in Kolkata, the culture, the style, the manners, the poetry, the dresses, the cuisine, probably everything. He continued with the life of luxury and aristocracy typical to a Nawab with the money given by the British. He was a great patron of Hindusthani classical music and dance and also spent great deal of time on lighter entertainments like, kite flying, pigeon flying and cock fighting. After some ten years of his arrival he built a fine sprawling Imambara and a Mosque at Metiaburz where he lived. This is also the place where he breathed his last in 1887AD and was buried here. Though I spent my life in Kolkata I have never been to this place until recently. It only happened that on a hot sweltering summer morning I was accompanying an Aussie couple and an Italian gentleman on their journey on motorcycle to discover Kolkata. As I rode my motorcycle through the narrow crowded streets at Metiaburz, with Vivian from Australia as my pillion, I came across this huge imposing white gate on my left. Iftikar Ahsan, the owner of Calcutta Walks was leading the tour. Iftekar is a good friend of mine and he is the human Wikipedia of Kolkata’s heritage interests. Iftekar signalled us to stop, we parked our bikes and went inside. As we entered past the imposing ornate gate, there was a huge courtyard and then the main building stood on a raised marbled platform. The sloping roof overhead formed a huge veranda in the front. Inside there is long hall. On my left, inside a guarded room, I could see the huge bronze insignia of the rulers of Awadh along with few other artifacts. The huge hall is decorated with stained glass windows, massive chandeliers and finely wrought railings. I could also see many decorated Tazias in the hall. I was told that Muharram is a big event here and elaborate rituals with the ornate Tazia’s are performed every year. Looking up to the high beamed ceiling, I could see rows of beautiful Chandeliers in multiple colours, all of them made from finest Belgian glass. Even in the midday heat the inside was pleasant. It was great to spend some time here and I could feel history coming alive and talking of the bygone days of glory. If you are in Kolkata and find some spare time do go and visit. After all this is an integral part of the cultural history of Kolkata. In the attached video you can see the glimpses of the inside.