:This article focuses on stand-up surfing. For other uses see Surfing (disambiguation) , Pichilemu, Chile.]] Surfing is a surface water sport in which a person (the surfer) rides a board (the surfboard) on the crest of a wave as it carries the surfer towards the shore.

Two major subdivisions within stand-up surfing are longboarding and shortboarding, reflecting differences in surfboard design including surfboard length, and riding style.

In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively, associated with big wave surfing), a motorized water vehicle, such as a personal watercraft tows the surfer into the wave front, helping the surfer match a large wave's higher speed, a speed that is generally, but not exclusively a speed that a self-propelled surfer can not match.

Surfing-related sports such as paddleboarding and sea kayaking do not require waves, and other derivative sports such as kitesurfing and windsurfing rely primarily on wind for power, yet all of these platforms may also be used to ride waves.

Recently with the use of V-drive boats, wake surfing, riding the boat wake has emerged.

Origin

For centuries surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture. Surfing might have been observed first at Tahiti in Spring 1767 by Samuel Wallis and the crew members of the Dolphin who quickly visited the island on 17 June 1767. Another candidate is the botanist Joseph Banks being part of the First voyage of James Cook on the HMS Endeavour, who arrived on 10 April 1769 on Tahiti. Lieutenant James King was the first one who wrote about the art of surfing on Hawaii when completing the journals of Captain James Cook upon Cook's death in 1779.

When Mark Twain visited Hawaii in 1866 he wrote, :"In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing."

References to surf riding on planks and single canoe hulls are also verified for pre-contact Samoa, where surfing was called fa'ase'e or se'egalu (see Kramer, Samoa Islands) and Tonga.

==Surf waves== |alt=Photo of surfer wearing wetsuit catching wave]] |alt=Photo of surfer wiping out with arms outstretched and body parallel to surface]] Swell is generated when wind blows consistently over a large area of open water, called the wind's fetch. The size of a swell is determined by the strength of the wind and the length of its fetch and duration. Because of this, surf tends to be larger and more prevalent on coastlines exposed to large expanses of ocean traversed by intense low pressure systems.

Local wind conditions affect wave quality, since the surface of a wave can become choppy in blustery conditions. Ideal conditions include a light to moderate "offshore" wind, because it blows into the front of the wave, making it a "barrel" or "tube" wave.

The most important influence on wave shape is the topography of the seabed directly behind and immediately beneath the breaking wave. The contours of the reef or bar front becomes stretched by diffraction. Each break is different, since the underwater topography of one place is unlike any other. At beach breaks, sandbanks change shape from week to week. Surf forecasting is aided by advances in information technology. Mathematical modeling graphically depicts the size and direction of swells around the globe.

Swell regularity varies across the globe and throughout the year. During winter, heavy swells are generated in the mid-latitudes, when the north and south polar fronts shift toward the Equator. The predominantly westerly winds generate swells that advance eastward, so waves tend to be largest on west coasts during winter months. However, an endless train of mid-latitude cyclones cause the isobars to become undulated, redirecting swells at regular intervals toward the tropics.

East coasts also receive heavy winter swells when low-pressure cells form in the sub-tropics, where slow moving highs inhibits their movement. These lows produce a shorter fetch than polar fronts, however they can still generate heavy swells, since their slower movement increases the duration of a particular wind direction. The variables of fetch and duration both influence how long wind acts over a wave as it travels, since a wave reaching the end of a fetch behaves as if the wind died.

During summer, heavy swells are generated when cyclones form in the tropics. Tropical cyclones form over warm seas, so their occurrence is influenced by El Niño & La Niña cycles. Their movements are unpredictable. They can move westward as in 1979, when Tropical Cyclone Kerry wandered for three weeks across the Coral Sea and into Queensland before dissipating.

Surf travel and some surf camps offer surfers access to remote, tropical locations, where tradewinds ensure offshore conditions. Since winter swells are generated by mid-latitude cyclones, their regularity coincides with the passage of these lows. Swells arrive in pulses, each lasting for a couple of days, with a few days between each swell.

Wave intensity

of tube shape can be represented as a ratio between length and width. A perfectly cylindrical vortex has a ratio of 1:1, while the classic almond-shaped tube is nearer 3:1. When width exceeds length, the tube is described as "square".|alt=Drawing showing cross-section of a wave with the top curling from left to right over an air-filled region known as its tube. The tube contains one double-headed arrow pointing to the lower left and upper right labeled width and a second point to upper left and lower right labeled length.]]

Classification parameters

Tube shape defined by length to width ratio

* Square: <1:1

* Round: 1-2:1

* Almond: >2:1

Tube speed defined by angle of peel line

* Fast: 30°

* Medium: 45°

* Slow: 60°

Artificial reefs

The value of good surf has even prompted the construction of artificial reefs and sand bars to attract surf tourism. Of course, there is always the risk that one's vacation coincides with a "flat spell." Artificial surfing reefs can be built with durable sandbags or concrete, and resemble a submerged breakwater. These artificial reefs not only provide a surfing location, but also disapate wave energy and shelter the coastline from erosion. Wave pools aim to solve that problem, by controlling all the elements that go into creating perfect surf, however there are only a handful of wave pools that can simulate good surfing waves, owing primarily to construction and operation costs and potential liability. Most wave pools generate waves that are too small and lack the proper power to actually surf. The Sea Gaia Ocean Dome, located in Miyazaki, Japan, is a prime example of a surfable wave pool. Able to generate powerful waves with up to 10 foot faces, the specialized pump holds water in 20 vertical tanks positioned along the back edge of the pool. This allows the waves to be directed as they approach the artificial sea floor. Lefts, Rights, and A-frames can be directed from this ingenious pump design providing for rippable surf, even barrel rides. Many professional surfers have demonstrated how hard the simuated waves can be "ripped." The Ocean Dome, although revolutionary and surfing-wise successful, cost about $2 billion to build and is incredibly expensive to maintain.

The availability of free model data from the NOAA has allowed the creation of several surf forecasting websites.

An artificial reef known as Chevron Reef, was constructed in El Segundo, California in hopes of creating a new surfing area. However, the project was a failure, and the reef failed to produce any quality waves . In Kovalam, Southwest India, a recently constructed artificial reed has successfully provided the local community with a quality lefthander, stabilized coastal soil erosion, and a habitat to which marine life has flocked. ASR Ltd., a New Zealand based company, constructed the Kovalam reef and is working on another in Boscombe, England.

Surfers and surf culture

.|thumb|alt=Photo of back of human wrist and hand. The thumb and pinkie are extended and the other fingers are folded against the palm.]] Surfers represent a diverse culture based on riding the waves. Some people practice surfing as a recreational activity while others make it the central focus of their lives. Within the United States, surfing culture is most dominant in like California, Florida and Hawaii. Some historical markers of the culture included the woodie, the station wagon used to carry surfers' boards, as well as boardshorts, the long swim shorts typically worn while surfing.

The sport of surfing now represents a multi-billion dollar industry especially in clothing and fashion markets. Some people make a radical career out of surfing by receiving corporate sponsorships.

When the waves were flat, surfers persevered with sidewalk surfing, which is now called skateboarding. Sidewalk surfing has a similar feel to surfing and requires only a paved road or sidewalk. To create the feel of the wave, surfers even sneak into empty backyard swimming pools to ride in, known as pool skating.

Maneuvers

|thumb|250px]] Surfing begins when the surfer paddles toward shore in an attempt to match the speed of the wave. Once the wave begins to carry the surfer forward, the surfer stands up and proceeds to ride the wave. The basic idea is to position the surfboard so it is just ahead of the breaking part (white water) of the wave. A common problem for beginners is being able to catch the wave at all.

A surfer is respected if he catches a wave in the middle and maneuvers his way to the shoulder (or edge) of the breaking wave. Conversely, a surfer who takes off on the shoulder often becomes an obstacle for more skilled surfers taking off in the 'impact zone' and is deemed a shoulder hopper. Surfers' skills are tested by their ability to control their board in challenging conditions, riding challenging waves, and executing maneuvers such as strong turns and cutbacks (turning board back to the breaking wave) and carving (a series of strong back-to-back maneuvers). More advanced skills include the floater (riding on top of the breaking curl of the wave), and off the lip (banking off the breaking wave). A newer addition to surfing is the progression of the air whereby a surfer propels off the wave entirely and re-enters the wave.

Tube ride

The tube ride is considered to be the ultimate maneuver in surfing. As a wave breaks, if the conditions are ideal, the wave will break in an orderly line from the middle to the shoulder, enabling the experienced surfer to position him / her self actually inside the wave as it's breaking. This is known as a tube ride. If you are watching from shore, the tube rider may disappear from view as the wave breaks over the rider's head. If the surfer succeeds in bulleting out of the tube, it was a great ride. The longer the surfer remains in the tube, the more awesome the ride. Some of the world's best known waves for tube riding include Pipeline on the North shore of Oahu, Teahupoo in Tahiti and G-Land in Java.

Hanging Ten and Hanging Five are moves usually specific to longboarding. Hanging Ten refers to having both feet on the front end of the board with all of the surfer's toes off the edge, also known as noseriding. Hanging Five is having just one foot near the front, with five toes off the edge.

Cutback: Generating speed down the line and then turning back to reverse direction.

Floater: Suspending the board atop the wave. Very popular on small waves.

Top-Turn: Turn off the top of the wave. Sometimes used to generate speed and sometimes to shoot spray.

Air / Aerial: Launching the board off the wave entirely, then re-entering the wave. Various airs include ollies, lien airs, method airs, and other skateboard-like maneuvers.

Surfing terms

: ''See List of surfing terminology

Learning to surf

Many popular surfing destinations, such as Hawaii, California, Mexico, Florida, Peru, Chile, Ireland, Australia and Costa Rica, have surf schools and surf camps that offer lessons. Surf camps for beginners and intermediates are multi-day lessons that focus on surfing fundamentals. They are designed to take new surfers and help them become proficient riders. All-inclusive surf camps offer overnight accommodations, meals, lessons and surfboards. Most surf lessons begin by instructors pushing students into waves on longboards. The longboard is considered the ideal surfboard for learning, due to the fact it has more paddling speed and stability than shorter boards. Funboards are also a popular shape for beginners as they combine the volume and stability of the longboard with the manageable size of a smaller surfboard.

Typical surfing instruction is best performed one-on-one, but can also be done in a group setting. Popular surf locations such as Hawaii, Mexico and Costa Rica offer perfect surfing conditions for beginners, as well as challenging breaks for advanced students. Surf spots more conducive to instruction typically offer conditions suitable for learning, most importantly, sand bars or sandy bottom breaks with consistent waves.

Surfing can be broken into several skills: drop in positioning to catch the wave, the pop-up, and positioning on the wave. Paddling out requires strength but also the mastery of techniques to break through oncoming waves (duck diving, eskimo roll). Drop in positioning requires experience at predicting the wave set and where they will break. The surfer must pop up quickly as soon as the wave starts pushing the board forward. Preferred positioning on the wave is determined by experience at reading wave features including where the wave is breaking.

Balance plays a crucial role in standing on a surfboard. Thus, balance training exercises are a good preparation. Practicing with a Balance board or swing boarding helps novices master the art.

Equipment

a surfboard|alt=Photo of man bent over surfboard rubbing bar of solid wax against the board with palm trees and ocean in background]] |alt=Photo of plastic cord attached to surfboard and velcroed around surfer's ankle]] |alt=Photo of dozens of surfboards on rack. Each board is perpendicular to the ground and parallel to the other boards. Ocean in background.|left]] Surfing can be done on various equipment, including surfboards, longboards, Stand Up Paddle boards (SUP's) , bodyboards, Boogieboards,wave skis, skimboards, kneeboards, surf mats and macca's trays.

Surfboards were originally made of solid wood and were large and heavy (often up to long and ). Lighter balsa wood surfboards (first made in the late 1940s and early 1950s) were a significant improvement, not only in portability, but also in increasing maneuverability.

Most modern surfboards are made of polyurethane foam (PU), with one or more wooden strips or "stringers", fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin. An emerging board material is epoxy (EPS) which is stronger and lighter than traditional fiberglass. Even newer designs incorporate materials such as carbon fiber and variable-flex composites.

Since epoxy surfboards are lighter, they will float better than a fiberglass board of similar size, shape and thickness. This makes them easier to paddle and faster in the water. However, a common complaint of EPS boards is that they do not provide as much feedback as a traditional fiberglass board. For this reason, many advanced surfers prefer that their surfboards be made from fiberglass.

Other equipment includes a leash (to stop the board from drifting away after a wipeout, and to prevent it from hitting other surfers), surf wax, traction pads (to keep a surfer's feet from slipping off the deck of the board), and fins (also known as skegs) which can either be permanently attached (glassed-on) or interchangeable.

Sportswear designed or particularly suitable for surfing may be sold as boardwear (the term is also used in snowboarding). In warmer climates, swimsuits, surf trunks or boardshorts are worn, and occasionally rash guards; in cold water surfers can opt to wear wetsuits, boots, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures. A newer introduction is a rash vest with a thin layer of titanium to provide maximum warmth without compromising mobility.

There are many different surfboard sizes, shapes, and designs in use today. Modern longboards, generally 9 to in length, are reminiscent of the earliest surfboards, but now benefit from modern innovations in surfboard shaping and fin design. Competitive longboard surfers need to be competent at traditional walking maneuvers, as well as the short-radius turns normally associated with shortboard surfing.

The modern shortboard began life in the late 1960s and has evolved into today's common thruster style, defined by its three fins, usually around in length. The thruster was invented by Australian shaper Simon Anderson.

Midsize boards, often called funboards, provide more maneuverability than a longboard, with more floation than a shortboard. While many surfers find that funboards live up to their name, providing the best of both surfing modes, others are critical.

:"It is the happy medium of mediocrity," writes Steven Kotler. "Funboard riders either have nothing left to prove or lack the skills to prove anything."

There are also various niche styles, such as the Egg, a longboard-style short board targeted for people who want to ride a shortboard but need more paddle power. The Fish, a board which is typically shorter, flatter, and wider than a normal shortboard, often with a split tail (known as a swallow tail). The Fish often has two or four fins and is specifically designed for surfing smaller waves. For big waves there is the Gun, a long, thick board with a pointed nose and tail (known as a pin tail) specifically designed for big waves.

Famous surfing locations

The Jeffreys Bay Surf Break, Eastern Cape South Africa

Surfing at Supertubes A very long, fast, tubing right hand point break breaks along the west side of the bay. The break is regarded as one of the best right hand point breaks in the entire world, in both consistency and quality, in season. [5][3][6] It has been divided up into several sections, including, from the top of the point, Kitchen Windows, Magna tubes, Boneyards, Supertubes, Impossibles, Tubes, the Point, and Albatross.[7] "Supertubes", which itself breaks for about 300m or more, is regarded as the best part of the wave. On rare occasions (large wave sizes, wide-breaking waves, and even swells), Boneyards can link up all the way to the Point for a ride over one kilometer long. The most consistent waves occur between about May to mid September, also often coinciding with offshore winds, although good waves can occasionally occur at other times of the year.[citation needed]

The initial discovery and promotion of the wave is curious. Another nearby right hand point wave at St. Francis Bay (Bruce's Beauty) was first idolised and promoted in the cult classic surf movie The Endless Summer in the 1960s (although both Jeffreys Bay and St. Francis Bay were probably surfed much earlier). Surfers who travelled to the area soon stumbled upon the nearby Jeffreys Bay surf break, which was found to be not only a faster, more powerful, and hollower wave, but also much more consistent.[8]

Severn Bore ( River Severn, United Kingdom )

The Severn Bore is a world-famous surfing location in Great Britain, on the River Severn. Due to narrowing of the river, the wave height increases, with a record high of 9.2 ft in Oct 1966. The wave can often last several miles, and causes a rise in water level for over an hour after. It is located in the River Severn, a river separating towns such as Newport Wales and Bristol England . The break is caused by an tidal water from the Bristol Channel moving up the Severn Estuary.

Punta Roca ( La Libertad, El Salvador )

Also known as "Way To California", it was founded by the British colonist Sir Francis Drake while on route to northern California, El Puerto has been home to many foreigners.El Puerto is home to one of the best right points in Central America, known for its fast hollow, pulsing, over 30-second ride waves. Punta Roca (also called "La Punta" by local surfers) has been the perfect spot for many known surfers who back in the 1970s discovered the point with only a few local surfers brave enough to venture into its rocky bottom plane. It is known that legend Gerry Lopez, travelled frequently to this surf spot back in the 70's encouraging a new wave of locals to get into the sport. By the 1980s, El Salvador went through a civil war, and getting to the point was rather dangerous slowing visitors, and with that, a scarcity of surf boards to the locals whose only means of getting a surf board was by travelers leaving them behind in exchange of guidance and accommodations. Local legend, "Yepi" was one the first of his generation to take on full self-support and help maintain the sport, a popular activity among locals. Locals have also been increasing the popularity of the sport through out the country by offering custom surf tours to tourists and visitors in the region.

The main wave extends from La Punta to the township, a distance of about 800m, although single rides do not normally connect along this whole distance. On a good 6 to 8 feet day (Hawaiian scale), the top part of the point produces the best waves, giving a ride of about 300m or more. The wave features a relatively easy takeoff with long, fast, powerful walls, with longer hollow barrels on the best days. This wave works from about 3 to 12 feet (Hawaiian scale), and can barrel anywhere along the point, but most often closest to the takeoff area. The main takeoff is close to a dangerous rock which often sticks out of the water, and has caused injuries. It works on all tides, although low tide probably has more barrels. The wave is unusual in that it often breaks at a slight angle to the shoreline, hitting it slightly squarely, creating powerful and fast walls. It can be difficult to get out the back in large swells, and the rocky shoreline is notorious for its rather difficult entry.

Further down the point are a few other breaks, including next to the cemetery and in the town itself. These are less crowded and can produce waist-high waves on occasions, but the world-class section of the point is way on the outside.

Other surf spots around the region include: Conchalio, La Paz, San Diego, EL Zunzal, La Bocana, El Zonte

Mavericks ( California )

of Mavericks|thumb|250px]] Maverick's or Mavericks is a world-famous surfing location in Northern California. It is located approximately one-half mile (0.8 km) from shore in Pillar Point Harbor, just north of Half Moon Bay at the village of Princeton-By-The-Sea. After a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, waves can routinely crest at over 25 feet (8m) and top out at over 50 feet (15m). The break is caused by an unusually-shaped underwater rock formation.

Pipeline ( Oahu, Hawaii )

Pipeline is a surf reef break located in Hawaii, off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea on O'ahu's North Shore. The spot is notorious and famous for its huge waves breaking in shallow water just above its sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow and thick curls of water that surfers can ride inside of. There are three reefs at Pipeline in progressively deeper water further out to sea that activate at various power levels applied by ocean swells.

Teahupoʻo ( Tahiti )

Teahupoʻo (pronounced cho-po) is a world-renowned surfing location off the south-west of the island of Tahiti, French Polynesia, southern Pacific Ocean. It is known for its heavy, glassy waves, often reaching 2 to 3 m (7 to 10 ft) and higher. It is the site of the annual Billabong Pro Tahiti surf competition, part of the World Championship Tour (WCT) of the ASP World Tour professional surfing circuit.

Zicatela Beach ( Mexican Pipeline )

Zicatela is a beach located in the town of Puerto Escondito, Oaxaca. Nicknamed the "Mexican Pipeline" due to the similar power and shape of the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, the wave that breaks on Zicatela Beach draws an international crowd of surfers, bodyboarders and their entourages. Mid to late summer is low season for tourists, but a prime time for waves and international tournaments. A number of international competitions such as the ESPN X Games, and the MexPipe Challenge have taken place.

Dangers

Drowning

Surfing, like all water sports, carries the inherent danger of drowning. (Anyone at any age can learn to surf, but must have at least intermediate swimming skills.) Although the board assists a surfer in staying buoyant, it cannot be relied on for floation if it becomes separated from the user. The leash, which is attached at the ankle, keeps the surfer connected to the board for convenience but does not prevent drowning. Surfers should be careful to remain in smaller surf until they've acquired the advanced skills necessary to handle bigger waves and challenging conditions.

Top surfers have drowned in extremely challenging conditions. Some drownings occurred as a result of leashes tangling with reefs, holding the surfer underwater. In very large waves such as Waimea or Mavericks, a leash may be undesirable, because the water can drag the board for long distances, holding the surfer underneath the wave.

Collisions

Under the wrong set of conditions, anything that a surfer's body can come in contact with is potentially a danger, including sand bars, rocks, reefs, surfboards, and other surfers. Collisions with these objects can sometimes cause injuries such as cuts and scrapes and in rare instances, death.

Surfers often jump off jetties, bridges, wharves and other structures to reach the surf. If the timing is wrong they can hurt themselves or their equipment.

A large number of injuries, up to 66%, are caused by collision with a surfboard (nose or fins). Fins can cause deep lacerations and cuts, as well as bruising. While these injuries can be minor, they can open the skin to infection from the sea; groups like Surfers Against Sewage campaign for cleaner waters to reduce the risk of infections. Local bugs and disease can be a dangerous factor when surfing around the globe.

Falling off a surfboard or colliding with others, is commonly referred to as a wipeout.

Marine life

Sea life can sometimes cause injuries and even fatalities. Animals such as sharks, stingrays, seals and jellyfish can sometimes present a danger.

Rip Currents

Riptides endanger both experienced and inexperienced surfers. Rip currents are water channels that flow away from shore. Since these currents lurk in seemingly calm waters, tired or inexperienced swimmers or surfers can be swept away. A riptide usually has a width of forty or fifty feet. By paddling parallel to the shore, a surfer can escape the rip current.

Seabed

The Seabed can pose dangers for the surfers. If a surfer is to fall while riding a wave, the wave will then toss him around, usually downwards. Whether it'd be a reef break or beach break, plenty of surfers have been seriously injured or even died because of the great collision with the bottom of the sea. Seabeds can get very shallow, especially, on beach breaks, during low tide. Cyclops, Western Australia, for example is one of the biggest and thickest reef breaks in the world, with waves measuring up to 10 metres high. Yet, the reef below is only about 2 metres deep.

See also

Artificial wave pool

ASP World Tour

Duke Kahanamoku

Hawaiian scale

History of surfing

Kitesurfing

Lake surfing

List of surfers

List of surfing areas

List of surfing topics

Ocean wave

River surfing

Skimboarding

Stand up paddle surfing

Surf break

Surf culture

Surfer's ear

Surf forecasting

Surf lifesaving, Surf Life Saving Club and nippers

Surf music

Surf zone

Surfing in Madeira

Swing boarding

The Endless Summer

Triple Crown of Surfing

World Championship Tour (WCT)

World surfing champion

References

External links

Name	Laird Hamilton
Birth date	March 02, 1964
Birth place	San Francisco, California, USA
Residence	Maui, Malibu
Height
Weight
Years active	1970–present
Sponsors	Oxbow, Amway
Major achievements	Co-invented Tow-in surfing. August 17, 2000 at Teahupo'o heaviest wave ever ridden successfully.
Stance	Regular Foot
Quiver	Long boards
Favorite waves	Teahupo'o, Pipeline
Website	lairdhamilton.com

Laird Hamilton (born 1964) is an American big-wave surfer, co-inventor of tow-in surfing, and an occasional fashion and action-sports model. He is married to Gabrielle Reece, a professional volleyball player, television personality, and model. Hamilton and his family split their time between residences in Maui, Hawaii, and Malibu, California.

Early life

Laird was born Laird John Zerfas in San Francisco on March 2, 1964, in an experimental salt-water sphere at UCSF medical Center designed to ease the mother's labor. His Greek birth father, L. G. Zerfas, left the family before his first birthday. While he was an infant, Laird and his mother, Joann Zyirek Zerfas, moved to Hawaii. While still a young boy living on Oahu, Laird met with 1960s surfer Bill Hamilton, a bachelor at the time, on Pūpūkea beach on the North Shore. Bill Hamilton was a surfboard shaper and glasser on Oahu in the 1960s and 1970s and owned a small business handmaking custom, high-performance surfboards for the Oahu North Shore big wave riders of the era. The two became immediate companions. The young Laird invited Bill Hamilton home to meet his mother. Bill Hamilton married Laird's then-single mother, becoming Laird's adoptive father.

Hamilton had a reputation for an aggressive demeanor around others of his age. This hostile attitude was in part due to Laird and his brother Lyon being bigger than their classmates, fair-skinned, and blonde: unusual in their predominantly Hawaiian-populated neighborhood. The role of the outsider profoundly affected Laird through to his teen years and early adult life. He became used to this role and was uncomfortable being in the center of anything. He was also known for his physical and mental toughness. Laird was shown in footage jumping off a 60-foot cliff into deep water at 7 years old.

Modeling

When 16, Hamilton left eleventh grade at Kapaa High School to pursue a modeling career and work in construction. At 17, Hamilton was discovered on a beach in Kauai by a photographer from the Italian Men's Vogue magazine L'Uomo Vogue which landed him a modeling contract and later a 1983 photo shoot with the actress Brooke Shields. Hamilton continued to do occasional men's action sportswear print modeling.

In 2008 Hamilton announced his own "Wonderwall" line of affordable clothing, sold through Steve & Barry's until that retailer shut down at the end of January 2009. He has had long-time sponsorship from the French beachwear company Oxbow surfwear.

Surfing career

1980s

on the north shore of Oahu where Hamilton grew up]] By the age of 17, Hamilton had become an accomplished surfer and could have left modeling to pursue a career on surfing's World Championship Tour. However, competitive surfing and contests never appealed to Hamilton, who had watched his father Bill endure the competitive surfing contest politics and the random luck of the waves in organized championship surfing events. Bill Hamilton regarded surfing more as a work of art, rather than based chiefly on wave-by-wave ride performance scored by judges.

In the 1987 movie North Shore, Hamilton played the violent, antagonistic role of "Lance Burkhart". Despite further success in modeling during the 1980s, Hamilton, with his professional surfing upbringing, always intended a life of surfing, but continued to reject the professional contest circuit.

1990s

An early attempt at media recognition was his quest to be the first surfer to complete a 360 degree loop while strapped to his board. The attempt was chronicled in Greg Stump's 1990 ski film, Groove - Requiem in the key of Ski. In the early 1990s, Hamilton, along with a small group of friends collectively dubbed the "Strapped Crew" because their feet were strapped to their boards, pushed the boundaries of surfing at Jaws surf break off the north central coast of Maui. The Strapped Crew tackled bigger waves featuring stunts. Stunts included: launching jumps on sailboards, then mating the boards to paragliders to experiment with some of the earliest kiteboards.

In late 1992, Hamilton with two of his close friends, big wave riders Darrick Doerner and Buzzy Kerbox (also an occasional men's fashion model; Hamilton and Kerbox later lost their friendship over a property disagreement. He has become a proponent of Stand up paddle surfing, an ancient Hawaiian technique that requires a longboard and a long-handled paddle, as well as considerable skill, strength and agility. Purist surfers have blasted him for this, but Hamilton calls it a return to the traditional Hawaiian way of surfing, as practiced by King Kamehameha I and his queen Kaahumanu almost three hundred years ago.

Ride at Teahupoo Reef

, Hawaii and another in Malibu, California ]] Hamilton's drop into Tahiti's Teahupoo break on the morning of August 17, 2000 firmly established him in the recorded history of surfing. Teahupoo is a particularly hazardous shallow-water reef break southeast of the Pacific Island of Tahiti.

On that day, with a larger than normal ocean swell, Darrick Doerner piloted the watercraft, towing Hamilton. Pulling in and releasing the tow rope, Hamilton drove down into the well of the wave's enormous tunnel vortex, in full view of boat-based photographers' and videographers' cameras. With his signature artistic flair, Hamilton continued deeply carving water, emerging back over the wave's shoulder. A still photograph of him riding the wave made the cover of Surfer magazine, with the caption: "oh my god..." The wave became known as "the heaviest ever ridden".

Hamilton is regarded by surfing historians as the "all time best of the best" at big wave surfing, regularly surfing swells of 35 feet (11 m) tall, and moving at speeds in excess of an hour and successfully riding other waves of up to high, at up to 50 mph (80 km/h). Hamilton prefers tow-in surfing the giant waves of Peahi reef (known as the Jaws surf break) on the north central shore of the Island of Maui.

2000s

In 2007, when Brett Lickle was towing Hamilton into a wave on the Maui north shore, a wave knocked him from the watercraft. The fin on the surfboard sliced Lickle, causing him to bleed into the sea, which he feared would attract sharks. Hamilton swam to recover the watercraft, and fashioned his swimsuit as a tourniquet. Hamilton then piloted the craft back to a landing, naked, where Lickle was taken to a hospital to recover.

In February 2008 Hamilton joined the board of directors of H2O Audio, a watersports music company in San Diego California. He had used H2O Audio products on many of his long distance paddling endeavors before joining the company. Later in 2008 he published a book which he describes as not an autobiography, but discussing his philosophy of life.

Despite being one of the best known surfers since the time of Duke Kahanamoku, the matured Hamilton avoids self-promotion. He serves as an ambassador of surfing and watersports and occasional lifeguard to other tow-in surfers.

Hamilton is also an environmental activist. He joined a protest in Malibu against a proposed plant that was to be built in the area, which would affect the quality of the water. Other celebrities attended the event including Pierce Brosnan, Halle Berry and Ted Danson.

Personal life

Hamilton was previously married to Maria Souza. They have a daughter, Izabella, born in 1995.

Hamilton and second wife Gabby Reece have two children together, daughters Reece Viola Hamilton (born in October 2003), and Brody Jo Hamilton (born January 1, 2008 in Hawaii). According to Reece, the Hamilton family splits time living in residences in Hawaii and California.

The popular press describes Hamilton and wife Gabrielle as part of the Malibu Mob, a celebrity group in the same vein as the Brat Pack. Other Malibu Mob members include Chris Chelios, John Cusack, Kelsey Grammer, John C. McGinley, Tony Danza, Justin Long, Ed O'Neill, Max Wright and tennis star John McEnroe.

Other media appearances

Hamilton was featured in American Express credit card television commercials; an early 2000s commercial in the series "Hi, you probably wouldn't recognize my name . . . " and more recently in the American Express "My life, my card" commercial series.

Hamilton was a central figure in the 2004 documentary Riding Giants about giant wave surfing; and the opening sequence of the 2002 James Bond movie Die Another Day, as Pierce Brosnan's big-wave surfing double (shared with Dave Kalama). He appeared in Waterworld, as Kevin Costner's stunt double in numerous water scenes.

In October 2006, Hamilton and Dave Kalama biked and paddled the entire Hawaiian Island chain—more than 450 miles—in a week. The feat was featured on Don King's film, A Beautiful Son, in support of those afflicted with autism. He appeared on the cover of the Men's Journal April 2006 issue. In 2007, Hamilton, along with his wife Gabrielle Reece, appeared in the ABC reality television series , featuring a dozen celebrities in a stock car racing competition. In the first round of competition, Hamilton matched up against tennis star Serena Williams and former NFL quarterback John Elway. Hamilton was eliminated in episode 5.

He appeared in the Sundance Channel television show Iconoclasts with Eddie Vedder from the popular American rock band Pearl Jam.

Footage of Hamilton is used on the video for Dayvan Cowboy from Boards of Canada. In 2003, he was featured in Dana Brown's surf documentary Step Into Liquid. On January 13, 2010, Hamilton and wife Reece appeared as themselves on the episode "Gary Feels Tom Slipping Away" of the CBS television series Gary Unmarried.

He was a special guest star as himself in the animated television show Phineas and Ferb.

Works

References

Further reading

.

External links

Laird Hamilton's Myspace page

Another set of photographs of Laird Hamilton riding The Wave at Teahupoo, August 17, 2000, by Tim McKenna

YouTube: Riding Giants = Laird Hamilton

Laird Hamilton profiled on clubofthewaves.com

Category:American surfers Category:American windsurfers Category:1964 births Category:Living people Category:American people of Greek descent Category:American kitesurfers Category:American male models Category:People from San Francisco, California Category:People from Maui Category:Sportspeople from Hawaii Category:Tow-in surfers

Name	Kelly Slater
Birth date	February 11, 1972
Birth place	Cocoa Beach, Florida, U.S.
Residence	Florida, California and Hawaii
Height
Weight
Years active	1990–present
Best year	Ranked 1st on the ASP World Tour, 1992, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 2005, 2006, 2008 and 2010
Career earnings	$2,384,255 (as of 2010)
Sponsors	Quiksilver wetsuits and clothing, FCS fins and Komunity Project accessories
Major achievements	10 time ASP World Champion Victories: 55World championship tour (WCT) surfing wins: 45
Stance	Regular (natural) foot (left foot forward)
Shapers	Al Merrick
Quiver	5'6", 5'8", 5'10", 6'1", 6'3" and 6'6" boards when on the road
Favorite waves	Kirra and Pipe
Favorite maneuvers	Airs and barrels
Website	kellyslater.com

Robert Kelly Slater (born February 11, 1972, Cocoa Beach, FL, USA), known as Kelly Slater, is an American professional surfer known for his competitive prowess and style. He has been crowned ASP World Champion a record 10 times, including 5 consecutive titles from 1994–98. He is the youngest (at age 20) and the oldest (at age 38) to win the title. Upon winning his 5th world title in 1997, Slater passed Australian surfing legend Mark Richards to become the most successful champion in the history of the sport. In 2007 he also became the all-time leader in career event wins by winning the Boost Mobile Pro event at Lower Trestles near San Clemente, California. The previous record was held by Slater's childhood hero, 3-time world champion Tom Curren. In addition to the ASP tour, Slater has also competed in the X-Games (in 2003 and 2004). On October 3, 2008, Slater won his ninth ASP world title at the Billabong Pro Mundaka by defeating local surfer Eneko Acero in the 3rd round. In May 2005, in the final heat of the Billabong Tahiti Pro contest at Teahupo'o, Slater became the first surfer ever to be awarded two perfect scores for a total 20 out of 20 points under the ASP two-wave scoring system. (The corresponding honor under the previous three-wave system belongs to fellow American Shane Beschen who achieved the feat in 1996.)

Since 1990, Slater has been sponsored primarily by surfwear industry giant Quiksilver. He exclusively rides Channel Islands surfboards equipped with his own signature series of FCS fins.

Biography

Early life and family

and Christiaan Bailey]] Slater was born on February 11, 1972 in Cocoa Beach, Florida, where he continues to reside. He has a teenage daughter named Taylor. He is of Irish and Syrian ancestry. He has an older brother, Sean, and two younger brothers, Stephen, and David.

In his spare time, Slater enjoys playing the guitar. His favorite wave spots are Sandspit in California, Pipeline in Hawaii, Miramar in Buenos Aires, Argentina, Kirra in Australia, Jeffreys Bay in South Africa, Minis in Ireland, Taghazout in Morocco, Soup Bowls in Barbados and Sebastian Inlet near his home in Florida. He is also an avid golfer, with a +2 handicap. Slater is interested in the sport of Brazilian Jiu Jitsu. His inspirations are Tom Curren, Tom Carroll, Mark Occhilupo, Martin Potter, Andy Irons and Shane Dorian.

Other Projects

Slater played the recurring character Jimmy Slade on several episodes of the popular tv show Baywatch in the early 1990s. He appeared in an episode of the reality show The Girls Next Door, and has also starred in many surf films throughout his career.

In the late 90s Slater, along with friends and fellow pro surfers Rob Machado and Peter King, formed a band called the Surfers. The trio released an album in 1998 titled Songs From the Pipe, a reference to the famous surf spot Pipeline on Oahu, Hawaii.

Slater performed a song with Ben Harper during Harper's concert in Santa Barbara. on August 1, 2006. He also performed "Rockin' in The Free World" with grunge band Pearl Jam on the July 7, 2006 in San Diego. In 1999, he appeared alongside Garbage singer Shirley Manson in the promotional video for the band's single "You Look So Fine". He played a man washed up on a seashore, then rescued by Manson.

A video game named Kelly Slater's Pro Surfer, by Treyarch and published by Activision, was released in 2002. Slater also appeared as a playable character in Tony Hawk's Pro Skater 3 prior to this, complete with a surfboard.

In 2003 Slater released his autobiography, Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey. In 2008 he released a second book with Phil Jarratt, entitled Kelly Slater: For the Love.

Slater is passionate about preserving oceans globally and protecting temperate reefs in California through his relationship with Reefs Neck.

On May 8, 2010 the United States House of Representatives honored Slater in H. Res. 792 for his "outstanding and unprecedented achievements in the world of surfing and for being an ambassador of the sport and excellent role model." This resolution, sponsored by Florida representative Bill Posey and sponsored by 10 representatives passed without objection by a voice vote.

Stats

Pro at Trestles ]] , San Clemente State Beach, California]]

WCT victories: 45

World titles: 10

On 9/15/07, Kelly Slater passed Tom Curren's long standing WCT tour victory record of 33 with his win at the Boost Mobile Pro at Lowers Trestles.

2010 Stats and Results

World Ranking: 2010 Champion Points: 69000

Event Results in 2010 Quiksilver Pro, Gold Coast (Snapper Rocks, Australia): 9th Rip Curl Pro, Bells Beach (Australia): 1st Hang Loose Pro (Santa Catarina, Brasil): 2nd Billabong Pro (Jeffreys Bay, South Africa): 17th Billabong Pro Teahupoo (Teahupoo, Tahiti): 3rd Hurley Pro (Lower Trestles, San Clemente, CA): 1st Quiksilver Pro France (Hossegor, France): 2nd Rip Curl Pro Portugal (Peniche, Portugal): 1st Rip Curl Pro Search 2010 (Middles Beach, Isabela, Puerto Rico): 1st Billabong Pipeline Masters (Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii): 3rd

2009 Stats and Results

World Ranking: 6th. Points: 6136

Event Results in 2009 Quiksilver Pro, Gold Coast (Snapper Rocks, Australia): 17th Rip Curl Pro, Bells Beach (Australia): 17th Billabong Pro, Tahiti (Teahupoo, Tahiti): 17th Hang Loose Pro (Santa Catarina, Brasil): 1st Billabong Pro (Jeffreys Bay, South Africa): 9th Hurley Pro (Lower Trestles, San Clemente, CA): 3rd Quiksilver Pro France (Hossegor, France): 5th Billabong Pro, Mundaka (Mundaka, Spain): 3rd Rip Curl Search (Peniche, Portugal): 17th Billabong Pipeline Masters (Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii): 2nd

2008 Stats and Results

World Ranking: 2008 Champion Points: 8832

Event Results Quiksilver Pro, Gold Coast (Snapper Rocks, Australia): 1st Rip Curl Pro, Bells Beach (Australia): 1st Billabong Pro, Tahiti (Teahupoo, Tahiti): 17th Globe Pro, Fiji (Tavarua, Fiji): 1st Billabong Pro, J-Bay (Jeffreys Bay, South Africa): 1st Rip Curl Search (Bali, Indonesia): 17th Boost Mobile Pro (Lower Trestles, San Clemente, CA): 1st Quiksilver Pro France (Hossegor, France): 2nd Billabong Pro, Mundaka (Mundaka, Spain): 9th Hang Loose Pro (Santa Catarina, Brasil): DNS Billabong Pipeline Masters (Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii): 1st

History of Wins

2010

Rip Curl Pro (Bells Beach, Australia)

Hurley Pro (Lower Trestles, California, USA)

Rip Curl Pro (Peniche, Portugal)

Rip Curl Search (Middles, Isabela, Puerto Rico)

2009

Hang Loose Pro (Santa Catarina, Brasil)

2008

Quiksilver Pro ("Snapper Rocks" - Gold Coast, Australia)

Rip Curl Pro (Bells Beach, Australia)

Glove Pro Fiji (Cloudbreak, Restaurants - Tavarua, Fiji)

Billabong Pro J-Bay (Jeffrey's Bay, South Africa)

Boost Mobile Pro (Lower Trestles, San Clemente, California)

Billabong Pipeline Masters (Pipeline, North Shore Oahu, Hawaii)

2007

Boost Mobile Pro (Lower Trestles, San Clemente, California)

2006

Quiksilver Pro (Gold Coast, Australia)

Rip Curl Pro (Bells Beach, Australia)

2005

Billabong Pro (Teahupoo, Tahiti)

The Globe WCT (Fiji)

Billabong Pro (South Africa)

Boost Mobile Pro (Lower Trestles, San Clemente, California)

2004

Snickers Australian Open (QS)

Energy Australia Open (QS)

2003

Billabong Pro (Teahupoo, Tahiti)

Billabong Pro (South Africa)

Billabong Pro (Mundaka, Spain)

Nova Schin Festival (Brazil)

2002

The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau (Specialty-Hawaii)

2000

Gotcha Tahiti Pro presented by Globe (Tahiti)

1999

Mountain Dew Pipe Masters (Hawaii)

1997

Coke Surf Classic (Australia)

Billabong Pro (Australia)

Tokushima Pro (Japan)

Marui Pro (Japan)

Kaiser Summer Surf WCT (Brazil)

Grand Slam (Specialty-Australia)

Typhoon Lagoon Surf Challenge (Specialty-USA)

1996

Coke Surf Classic (Australia)

Rip Curl Pro Saint Leu (Reunion Island)

CSI pres. Billabong Pro (South Africa)

U.S. Open (California)

Rip Curl Pro Hossegor (France)

Quiksilver Surfmasters (France)

Chiemsee Pipe Masters (Hawaii)

Sud Ouest Trophee (Specialty-France)

Da Hui Backdoor Shootout (Specialty-Hawaii)

1995

Quiksilver Pro (Indonesia)

Chiemsee Pipe Masters (Hawaii)

Triple Crown of Surfing (Specialty-Hawaii)

1994

Rip Curl Pro (Australia)

Gotcha Lacanau Pro (France)

Chiemsee Pipe Masters (Hawaii)

The Bud Surf Tour (WQS-USA)

The Bud Surf Tour (WQS-USA)

Sud Ouest Trophee (Specialty-France)

1993

Marui Pro (Japan)

1992

Rip Curl Pro Landes (France)

Marui Pipe Masters (Hawaii)

1990

Body Glove Surfbout Trestles (California)

Filmography

Films

''"Ultimate Wave Tahiti" (2010) ''"Bustin Down the Door" (2008) ''"One Track Mind" (2008) ''"Kelly Slater Letting Go" (2008) ''"Waveriders" 2008) ''"Surf's Up" (2007) ''"Down the Barrel" (2007) ''"Surfers - The Movie" (1990) ''"Bra Boys" (2007) ''"The Ocean" (2008) ''"One Night at McCool's" (2001) ''"Letting Go" (2006) ''"Young Guns 1, 2 & 3" (2004–2008) ''"Doped Youth" 'Groovy Avalon' (2004) ''"Kelly Slater in Black and White" (1991) ''"Endless Summer II" (1994) ''"Wave Warriors 3" ''"A Fly in the Champagne" (2009) (featuring Kelly Slater and Andy Irons) ''"Cloud 9" (2009) ''"Riding Giants" (2004) ''"Step into Liquid" (2003) ''"Thicker than Water" (2000)

Television

Baywatch, 10 episodes

The Girls Next Door, "Surf's Up" 1 episode

Bibliography

Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey (2003) ISBN 0060096292

Kelly Slater: For the Love (2008) ISBN 0811862224

References

External links

Kelly Slater the Official Website

Kelly Slater Photo Gallery at Outside Online

Kelly Slater at the Internet Movie Database

Kelly Slater Pictures & Wallpapers

Kelly Slater Interview

Interview with Kelly Slater and Eddie Vedder Regarding Surfing and Their Friendship

Kelly Slater In SPIN's November Issue

The most recent contest win is available as streaming videos at the official competition site

http://www.aspworldtour.com/quikpro/

Category:1972 births Category:American surfers Category:American people of Syrian descent Category:American sportspeople of Irish descent Category:Laureus World Sports Awards winners Category:Living people Category:People from Cocoa Beach, Florida

Name	Philip Andrew "Andy" Irons
Birth date	July 24, 1978
Birth place	Oahu, Hawaii
Death date	November 02, 2010
Death place	Grapevine, Texas, U.S.
Residence	Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii
Height
Weight
Stance	Regular (natural foot)
Years active	10 years
Best year	Ranked 1st on the ASP World Tour, 2002, 2003 and 2004
Career earnings	$1,495,533
Sponsors	Billabong, Von Zipper, Nixon Watches, Kustom Footwear, Dakine
Major achievements	ASP World Champion in 2002, 2003 and 2004Quiksilver Pro France champion (2003, 2004, 2005)Rip Curl Pro Search title (2006 & 2007).
Website

Philip Andrew Irons (July 24, 1978 – November 2, 2010) was a professional surfer. Irons learned to surf on the dangerous and shallow reefs of the North Shore in Oahu, Hawaii. Over the course of his professional career, he won three world titles (2002, 2003, 2004), three Quiksilver Pro France titles (2003, 2004, 2005), two Rip Curl Pro Search titles (2006 and 2007) and 20 elite tour victories including the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing four times from 2002-2006. On September 3, 2010 he won the Billabong Pro in Tahiti. He and his family hosted the Annual Irons Brothers Pinetrees Classic, a contest for youngsters. The Governor of Hawaii declared February 13 forever "Andy Irons Day". He is the only surfer to have won a title at every venue on the ASP calendar.

Career

His younger brother, Bruce Irons, is a former competitor on the World Championship Tour of Surfing (WCT). During his childhood Andy regularly lost to Bruce in contests, but that changed once he entered the World Championship Tour.

In 2009, Irons withdrew from doing the full ASP World Tour season for personal reasons, though he did participate in a few events. He requested a wildcard entry for the 2010 ASP World Tour season, which was granted by ASP President Wayne Bartholomew. As a result, Irons did not have to re-qualify in 2010 via the World Qualifying Series (WQS). Irons won the Billabong Pro Tahiti 2010.

He was inducted into the Surfing Walk of Fame in Huntington Beach, California in 2008.

Billabong produced an "Andy Irons" line of board shorts.

Death

Irons died on November 2, 2010; according to The Association of Surfing Professionals, "he had reportedly been battling with dengue fever, a viral disease." Irons had withdrawn from the event citing ill health and was flying back to his home in Hawaii before dying during a stopover in Dallas, Texas. He was reported to have been vomiting on the Hawaii bound plane before being removed prior to take-off. In the days immediately following his death it was reported that, in Dallas, an extremely ill Irons had attempted to board his connecting flight to Honolulu at 11:30 a.m. but was turned away at an American Airlines gate—a claim the company denies. Irons was diagnosed at one point with sleep apnea. A toxicologist said combining methadone with that condition could be risky.

A memorial service was held November 14 in Hanalei Bay, Kauai. His wife Lyndie and brother Bruce, scattered his ashes outside Hanalei Bay where thousands of family, friends and admirers said their last goodbyes.

Rival surfer and friend Kelly Slater dedicated his November 6, 2010 victory to Irons. "I just want to send my condolences to Andy's family," Slater said. "I'm a little overwhelmed right now but I want to dedicate this to Andy... It's like exact opposites. This doesn't really offset that, I'd give this title away in a second if Andy could come back."

Personal life

Irons married Lyndie Dupuis on November 25, 2007 in Princeville, Kauai. She was seven months pregnant with their first child at the time of his death. Lyndie gave birth to their son, a healthy boy, Andrew Axle Irons, in Kauai on the opening day of the Pipeline Masters in Memory of Andy Irons, December 8, 2010.

Films

The 2004 movie Blue Horizon (directed by surfing filmmaker Jack McCoy), paralleled his life on the WCT tour with that of free surfer, David Rastovich. The film also touched on his long-time rivalry with ten-time world champion Kelly Slater. Although the film was created in a documentary-like style, there has been some debate over whether or not the film offered an accurate and fair portrayal of Irons' surfing lifestyle. In addition to "Blue Horizon", Irons was also a subject of many other surf films, including his screen appearance in Trilogy, which starred himself, Joel Parkinson, and Taj Burrow.

Rivalry with Kelly Slater

Irons had a much-publicized, and, according to him, over-hyped, rivalry with fellow professional surfer Kelly Slater. In an interview, Irons said:

For me, just being affiliated with Kelly--to be next to him--I mean, that's awesome. He's the ultimate surfer. He's the best surfer in the world. Ever. Best competitive, best free surfer, you name it, and to have my name put next to his everywhere really is flattering. He's the Michael Jordan of our sport. Kelly knows how I feel about him. Despite all the media hype that comes out of a rivalry there's a lot of respect given both ways. People don't realize there are times when we hang out. We'll go check the waves together. We talk about boards. He invited me personally to his contest on Tavarua. There's a ton of respect there.

References

External links

Official site

Category:1978 births Category:2010 deaths Category:American surfers Category:Sportspeople from Hawaii Category:People from Kauai County, Hawaii