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My second African sojourn began on
December 12,
2002 in
Nairobi, Kenya. My objective was to learn as much as possible about the
Namibian culture, and especially to meet as many of the
Namibian indigenous people as possible.
We flew from
Nairobi to
Windhoek the capital of
Namibia, located in the heart of the country.Namibia is a Sub-
Saharan arid country on the west coast of
Africa between
South Africa and
Angola. It is so dry that when clouds come into the sky people stop and take notice.
From Windhoek we set out to the northeast to the border of
Botswana, to the towns of
Tsumkwe and Gam. There we met up with the San
Bushmen or
Kung people and Herrero people.
The San are a hunter and gatherer society, one of the oldest continuous cultures indigenous to Africa. Their language is unique for its phonetic clicking sounds. Now they make their home on the edges of the
Kalahari and Namibian deserts. Like many westerners, I was first introduced to the
San people through the cult-classic movie, "
The Gods Must Be Crazy" and while visiting the San, I had the good fortune to meet and paint Gag'o #Oma, the San bushman star of that movie. He is indeed a special person, and meeting him was one of the major highlights of my trip. His portrait is entitled, of course, The Gods Must Be Crazy.
The Hererro people are a group whose women can be identified by the large wrapped fabric hammerhead shark looking headpieces or turbans that are inspired by the habits of the catholic nuns that taught them as missionaries. I did a portrait of a particularly feisty Hererro woman who jokingly mocked me while I photographed her. Her painting is called "Hererro Wisecracker".
We then traveled westward through
Etosha National Park, famous for its diversity of wildlife. We were charged by enormous desert elephants, and had a close call with a white rhino. We stumbled across the white rhino along the road as he ran in front of us
Turning northwest we passed through
Opuwo on our way to
Epupa Falls, which is right on the border with Angola. Here we met the
Himba people. They are a nomadic pastoral group that has the most unique and fantastic way of dressing and decorating themselves. They are animists, which means that they worship their cattle and the women mimic the horns of cows by wearing cowhide horns on theor heads. Their bodies are smeared with a mixture of red oxide ochre pigment and pungent cow fat. Being around them smells like a constant barbeque. The Himba people still maintain their traditional ways and dress despite the constant march of modernization around them. The paintings, "Himba Super-Model", "Himba
Braids", and "
Ochre And Fat" are portraits of Himba women.
Heading south through
Damaraland we found the
Damara people.
Coca Cola Kid is a portrait of a
Damara child we met with her family. They can be identified by their use of colorful beads and plastic ornaments woven into their braided hair
and worn all over their bodies. Coca Cola Kid caught my eye because of all the coca cola tabs she had woven into her hair. Then it was through the
Namib Desert and on to the
Skeleton Coast.
From
Walvis Bay and Swakupund on the Skeleton Coast, we headed due east back to Windhoek, inland through the great sand dunes. From Windhoek, we flew south to
Keetmanshoop and then drove further south to
Fish River Canyon, the Namibian equivalent to the
Grand Canyon.
Finally we had to depart Namibia. We returned to
Arusha, Tanzania where we spent the next five months living under the shadow of
Mount Meru. During this period, I painted portraits of the Namibian people from the studies I had made while traveling and visiting among them.
Once I had completed a series of portraits, we then resumed our travel and headed for the
Maldives via the
United Arab Emirates (
UAE). I spent a few days in the UAE photographing the people of
Dubai. Then we flew on to the Maldives and visited the islands of
Male and Gam where I made my photographic studies of the people of the Maldives. Then back to Arusha, Tanzania and the final segment of my trip, which was to culminate in a local exhibition of the portraits I had painted. The exhibition of my
Tanzanian and Namibian portraits was held at the
Cultural Heritage Center in
Arusha. It opened in June of 2002 and ran for three months until September. After the exhibit, I returned to
New York to plan my trip to
Australia.
- published: 26 Oct 2012
- views: 2413