Dissassembly, bearing replacment, shimming and reassembly of a Getrag 360. This is the 5 speed transmission often found behind the 1st generation Cummins 5.9l in Dodge trucks. It is out of my stock 93 D250 with 216,000mi and was only making a slight bit of noise here and there and probably could have been ignored for a while longer. I do not disassemble the mainshaft or even remove the countershaft as my transmission only needed bearing replacment and shimming. The service manual for the 360 is available in PDF for FREE on the internet. Download it and read it, it is well written compared to many other manuals. Take whatever safety measure you feel necessary. This is NOT a video about safety, thats entirely up to you. The 'rogue snap ring' could put an unprotected eye out. I am NOT saying this was done correctly, only that this is how I did it and it works. Your Craftsman and Husky tools will work fine for this job, no need for Snapon. I do recommend a Brass drift or punch instead of the funny looking antique hammer I used. The Verneer caliper did not work well for measuring the bearing protrusion(height above case). If it is not held perfectly vertical, the reading is useless. I ended up using a straight edge and feeler gauges but the best would be a depth gauge as mentioned in the manual. Tools: - Hammers and punches/drift - 13mm and 30mm sockets. Perhaps an impact for that 30mm nut - Internal snap-ring pliers LARGE i.e. Snapon 9000A - External snap-ring pliers MEDIUM i.e Snapon 7000A - Diagonal cutters (dikes) - Prybars - Pipes of various diameter to install bearings - Cut-off wheel and chisel OR - Split bearing removal tools - Depth guage, straight edge and feeler gauge set or Veneer caliper - Torque wrench (maybe not really critical for this one) Supplies: - Anerobic gasket maker - Black RTV silicone - Loctite 242 (blue) - 5w-30 oil - Petroleum jelly(Vasoline) The cutoff wheel is used to cut a very deep groove across the inner race. Go as deep as possible without going through to the shaft. Dont hit the gear teeth either. When the groove is deep enough, the chisel is used to crack/split the remainder of the race. Even the slightest crack will loosen up the race enough to remove it. If you have one of those fancy split bearing tools and puller, go ahead and use that instead. DO NOT DISCARD the old bearings and races till you have completed a test drive, they are so very useful during reassembly. When removing/installing the mainshaft from the case, the loose synchro ring has a flat spot which I think needs to face down to aid removal. Either way remember to install this synchro ring when installing the mainshaft. When prying and pounding, be sure everything is properly supported and cushioned, careful what you are prying on. A single slip with the hammer could ruin a bearing cage or synchro tooth. Shimming: SHIMMING is 100% necessary if the bearings are replaced!! Measure how far the bearing races stick up above the transmission case. This is Measurement A Measure how deep into the tail shaft housing the bearing holes are. This is Measurement B Measurement B - Measurement A is the Bearing Clearance. Your shim pack should = Bearing Clearance + .006" This removes all clearance and actually applies force(preload) to the bearings. At 216kMi this tranny looks really good. Yes the bearings were slightly pitted and the races very worn but no signs of negelect or overheating. The teeth are just broken in, no extreme polish or visible wear. The synchro rings that I could see had plenty of meat left(shifted fine anyway) and even the shift forks will last another 200k.

• published: 14 May 2015
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