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Busting into the beauty industry

Date

Female run start-ups are building million dollar businesses in the beauty industry.

Evette Hess, co-founder of Poni Cosmetics.

Evette Hess, co-founder of Poni Cosmetics. Photo: Bradley Kanaris

Female run start-ups have seized the opportunities in Australia's "highly fragmented" online cosmetics industry.

You've got to take risks and you've got to do big things and bold things. 

Zoë Foster Blake

They're creating the products that they want to use and drumming up business on social media rather than trying to get a foothold in the traditional sales channels of department stores and pharmacies.  

Joanna French, founder of lipstick brand Shanghai Suzy.

Joanna French, founder of lipstick brand Shanghai Suzy. Photo: Ed Purnmo

​IBISWorld values the online perfume and cosmetic industry at $259 million and says the sector is experiencing "robust growth".

No individual company generates more than 5 per cent of total revenue, so the industry is ripe for plucky start-ups.   ​

Stressful starts

Celebrity, author and blogger Zoe Foster Blake has also founded a natural skincare line, Go-To.

Celebrity, author and blogger Zoe Foster Blake has also founded a natural skincare line, Go-To. Photo: Supplied

Evette Hess, co-founder of Poni Cosmetics, identified a gap in the market for a brow kit when she was working as a beautician.

"My customers always used to say 'I wish I could do that at home' and 'Can I pack you in my bag?'", Hess says. 

"When my baby was six months old I just woke up one morning and said 'You know that brow kit I've been talking about for years? I'm going to do that now'."

Hess and her husband used the $100,000 they had saved to buy a home to start the business. 

"It was stressful, but I'm the eternal optimist," she says. 

Hess started off stocking Poni's products at the clinic she worked at and then gradually picked up other beauty clinics to supply to, while also selling online.

Poni now turns over between $1 million to $2 million a year, marketing itself with cruelty free products that promise "no Ponis were harmed in making".  

Canny use of social media has been "the biggest contributor" to Poni's growth. 

"I find it quite shocking that a lot of businesses don't know the power of social media yet," Hess says. "It's free and you can connect with people all over the world."  

​Full control online

When ​author, journalist, blogger and celebrity Zoë Foster Blake decided to launch an all-natural skincare brand, Go-To, last year, she decided to sell only online. 

Foster Blake was the guest speaker at a recent Business Chicks lunch in Melbourne and says "the idea of a shop didn't even enter my mind, to me it is so easy to sell online".

"I've been accruing a following [online] for a while, the girls that follow me in the digital world are very happy to be there and very comfortable," she says.

"I can write to them and engage them on the site and have fun with them and then we get to send them the products and package it so it is a beautiful customer experience and then engage with them on social media afterwards," she says. "I love that we have full control of our experience  and we don't have a girl in a shop who has had a bad day be the caretaker of our brand". 

Foster Blake says it was a risk to start a business online in an industry where customers want to "feel it, touch it, smell it" but now with 15 staff and "rapid growth" she is happy with her strategy.  

"You've got to take risks and you've got to do big things and bold things," she says. 

Foster Blake says the digital revolution allows you to work from everywhere and set up a business without a shop.

"Its a renaissance for entrepreneurs, everyone is an entrepreneur at the moment and everyone has an idea," Foster Blake says. 

"But to have longevity I still think the idea and the product has to be really, really solid. Be specific. Just be the best at buttercream icing in Melbourne."  

Foster Blake says her background as a beauty journalist and blogger gave her the knowledge to work out the products she wanted to make, along with a "brilliant chemist" who a friend introduced her to. 

"Any truly good idea, there has to be a gap you are filling. If there's a product that already exists and you are duplicating it, I don't think you should bother." 

A lot more accessible 

​Joanna French, founder of Shanghai Suzy, just wanted an affordable lipstick, packaged nicely and in the latest colour. 

French worked in cosmetics marketing as a brand manager but says as a consumer "I wished there was something like that".

"It's about finding your little niche," she says. 

When French first launched her vegan lipstick business, Shanghai Suzy, her end goal was to get the brand stocked in pharmacies.

"As soon as I launched online I had all these salons come to me and I hadn't even thought about salons," she says.  "I looked into it and there are 30,000 salons in Australia.  Going into independent salons and selling online you can just grow the business organically."

Shanghai Suzy turns over $600,000 a year and sells in more than 600 salons around the country and online. 

"I just placed an order for 98,000 lipsticks, it's crazy," French says.

French uses social media and seasonal products to create interest in Shanghai Suzy's lipsticks, with a new drop of limited edition colours every six months.

"Changing our colours keeps our consumers excited," she says. 

"Consumers want something that feels a bit different and special they can post on their social media that nobody has heard of," she says.  "Social media and the internet means it costs basically nothing to market your product."

French says "anyone" can open a Shopify website and sell online.

"Now a lot of those barriers have been removed, it makes it a lot more accessible."   

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13 comments so far

  • And are all their products actually manufactured in Asia, not here in Australia ? And small lightweight items that can be posted out cheaply to the online customers ? And has the $1 to $2 million turnover per year ever shown a profit ?
    So much information not shared that would be of great interest to any one who is seriously considering going the same way, as well as those who have and are looking for benchmarks.
    A Small Business article that glosses and skates over the nitty gritty reality.

    Commenter
    Lyn
    Location
    NSW
    Date and time
    December 07, 2015, 8:05AM
    • Lyn, you make a good point but at $600k - $2million there should be some profit, if these people are actually harnessing the web's free global networking powers. Yes, what they leave out is probably more important than what they put in. How many have been threatened with legal action? That's something you don't forget quickly! Stock made in Asia that is of such poor quality it has to be sent to the tip? Unexpected port costs/delays? Labelling that needs to be re-done. Cheap copies flooding the market?

      Commenter
      Should I Start?
      Date and time
      December 07, 2015, 8:30AM
    • There is a large industry in convincing people that social media is the way. With over a billion people on it, these success stories could be the lottery winners, a tiny sliver of those for whom the message, context and product worked.
      After having countless blog reviews, 8 years on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter, press articles and magazine ads the most successful conversion for us was radio sponsorship on 3pbs.
      I agree Lyn, and it is important to remember likes and followers are not sales.

      Commenter
      Rob
      Location
      Williamstown
      Date and time
      December 07, 2015, 8:48AM
    • This article is fantastic about bringing in the news about start ups. I am also a start up myself and I noticed compared to overseas we do not really recognise many start ups here. One thing that Australians can be is negative towards others trying to create something. Being an Australian myself I noticed the trend compared to overseas. Innovation, startups and creativity is 100% embraced overseas and usually have regular fits with newspapers online promoting the awesome progress towards new things and sharing success. We are evolving and I think the more Australians learn how their fellow aussie created something the more positive we will be as a country. I agree with everything that being a startup you must use bold tactics and creative ideas.

      Commenter
      The Other Guy1
      Date and time
      December 07, 2015, 9:47AM
    • Need to know where they are made as well. I tried google, no joy.

      Commenter
      Di Keller
      Date and time
      December 07, 2015, 10:00AM
    • For every one of these articles 1000 businesses fail. Business has a formula. Look at Sony, Fletcher Jones, GMH.. There is no get rich quick scheme.

      Commenter
      Reality
      Location
      Melbourne
      Date and time
      December 07, 2015, 11:25AM
  • A truly really great success story and thank you for writing this article.

    Please the media can assist aussie owned businesses by regularly running stories on small business struggles and successes - knowledge is a powerful tool needed by others to encourage and learn 'how to do it' and in this case 'what can be achieved'

    We need a cultural change in this regard.

    Commenter
    wandererfromoz
    Location
    perth
    Date and time
    December 07, 2015, 8:43AM
    • They can also run stories on the 7 out of 10 businesses that fail within 5 years.

      Commenter
      Comparison
      Location
      Melbourne
      Date and time
      December 07, 2015, 11:27AM
  • Good news story and yet the innovation initiative of granting tax free capital gains status after three years means these businesses will not grow as the ability to sell them off to large overseas firms will be too great. We need long term encouragement and not just to inspire new businesses only for that knowledge, innovation and jobs to end up overseas anyway.

    Commenter
    Lance
    Date and time
    December 07, 2015, 9:25AM
    • Excellent point

      Commenter
      The Other Guy1
      Date and time
      December 07, 2015, 11:14AM

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