In 1955 the RAF Mountaineering Association underwent an ambitious expedition to climb several unnamed peaks north of Manali in India. The efforts of the Royal Air Force Mountaineering Association nine-member team, led by A.J.M. Smyth, to climb in the Kullu- Spiti-Lahaul divide of Himachal Pradesh is documented in this 30 minute film of a dramatic trip in a world now long lost. In the same era of Hillary and Tenzing, this film will be of interest to anyone looking into this final period of exploration while the British Empire and all its colonial values was rapidly shrinking homeward. Expedition Details : ============= The RAF team arrived on 20 May at Manali where they were joined by four Sherpas and being too early in the year, Rohtang pass (13,050 ft) lay blocked by heavy winter snows, impassable for mules. Therefore an alternative path via the the higher Hamta pass (c. 14,000 ft) led to s severe snowstorm on top of the pass where the plans were changed in the difficult wintry conditions and, instead of attempting peaks flanking the Bara Shigri glacier, the team decided to attempt a galaxy of unnamed peaks between 18,000 and 21,000 ft in the Lahaul triangle, north of the Rohtang pass, of which no record of climbs were known to exist. Base camp was established on 1 June at 11,500 ft in the Kulti basin. A Two member team surmounting a 300-foot near vertical icefall set up Camp 1 up at 14,000 ft on the Kulti glacier on 3 June. The view ahead was enthralling of a vast snowy white amphitheater surrounded by cirque of impressive peaks. From an intermediate camp the party climbed a dominant 19,567 ft high peak before descending to report on the recce to the rest of the team at the base camp. A second party of four, including the leader, after scaling three c.19,000 ft peaks on 10 June, climbed a 21,000 ft peak set four miles northwestwards after a grueling climb on 11 June. The next few days, not to leave any untouched, two more peaks, an attractive 18,199-footer and a second at 19,700 ft were climbed, so that all members of the team had the joy and satisfaction, in perfect weather, of climbing at least two peaks each. However, three members, Stewart, Bennet and Lees, with five peaks already to their credit, decided to add a sixth when, alpine style, they climbed the 20,350 ft Shikar Beh, south of the Chandra valley in the Pir Panjal range on 16 June. This crowned a tally for the expedition of ten peaks, perhaps all or some first ascents, ranging from 18,000-21,000 ft, representing, from a perspective, mountaineering at its supremely enjoyable best.

• published: 10 Dec 2013
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