Travel to Kyrgyzstan www.kosmostrip.net 6 DAY Wednesday Ashgabat - Mary Breakfast in the hotel Morning flight to Mary. Excursion to Merw (UNESCO) . Visiting Ancient Merv we can explore the process of urbanization in Central Asia. The smallest and earliest city at Merv is Erk Kala (approximately VI c. BC), which comprises only 20 hectares. It was enclosed by massive walls and a moat. The only entrance-way had a ramp leading straight to the city. Georgina Hermann, who has contributed so much to Turkmenistan archeology, described it as One of the imposing sites in Merv. The city's wall was continually reinforced until the early Islamic period when both Erk and Gyaur Kala were gradually abandoned. The Seleucids, Alexander’s successors, founded the second city of Merv (IV c. BC), known today as Gyaur Kala, which many experts identify with Antiochia Margiana. The city was built on a Hellenistic grid pattern. It is approximately square and occupies some 360 ha. Roughly in the middle of the site are the ruins of the 7th century mosque and partly ruined sordoba - water cistern. In the south east corner of Gyaur Kala one could see a distinguished mound- the remains of a Buddhist stupa and monastery. This complex was excavated by Masson M. in 1950s and the important finds included the famous ’Merv vase’ and the clay head of a massive statue of Buddha. Two outstanding monuments dating back to the Sasanid period are still visible on the territory of Ancient Merv - the Big Kyz Kala and small Kyz Kala (VI-VII cc). However, the Turkic name (in all Turkic languages Kyz means ‘girl’) doesn’t reflect the origin of the constructions. These rectangular clay castles - Koshks are of interesting architectural design, decorated from outside with corrugations. Different forms of vaults were used in these constructions. The Seljuk capital, consisting of a shahristan (medieval citadel) and a rabat (outskirts of the medieval city), considerably exceeded Damascus and Jerusalem in size. Today the Seljuk citadel is called Sultan Kala. It has an oval shape and occupies about 630 hectares. Its layout is still visible in aerial pictures. Among all city sites of Merw, perhaps the most significant is the medieval Seljuk city. During Seljuk Sultan Sanjar’s reign the Shahriar Ark was constructed - a citadel within the citadel, protected by its own walls and moat. Visiting Shahriar Ark you can see the Kepter Khana - an interesting corrugated structure, which is the best-preserved in the citadel. It’s walls still survive to a height of some 4,5 m, however the original height of the walls is hard to determine. The highlight of Ancient Merv is a visit to Sultan Sanjar’s mausoleum, which still dominates the landscape. This central-cupola building without portal is typical of the Khorasan architectural style. The mausoleum was created by Mohamed, the son of Atsyz of Serakhs. His name was not found in the historical chronicles, but we can find it on one of the medallions below the cupola of the mausoleum. Another monument at Merw from the time of the Seljuk rule is the mausoleum of Mohamed ibn Zaid, dated by inscription to 1112-13. It is located outside the medieval Seljuk citadel. It is unclear as to whom the mausoleum is actually devoted to. The local legend speaks about Mohamed Said ibn Zeid ibn Ali Zeinal Abedon ibn al- Husein ibn Ali-Talib, who was a prominent Shia teacher and direct descendant of the Prophet Ali in fifth generation. He died four centuries before the mausoleum was built and has been buried in Kufa in present-day Iraq. However, his name and the date of construction are mentioned in the inscription inside the mausoleum. It is an important place of pilgrimage in Turkmenistan. Next to the mausoleum we can find a sordoba (water cistern), also constructed in the Seljuk period. It is a domed construction to store rain water. Access to the cistern was by a stairway. A few kilometers to the south of the ruins of the medieval Sultan Kala we find the post-medieval city, known today as Abdullakhan Kala, constructed in the time of Timurid rule in the region, and was enclosed by massive walls and a moat with massive ramparts. Although one of the strongest and best fortified cities in the area, Abdullakhan Kala never reached the importance of the previous city sites. The remains of the city walls are still impressive, however, the walls, the Timurid palace and other constructions in this citadel, as well as four gates were much better preserved in the 19th century. The mausoleum-complex of Hodja Yusuf Hamadani (Hamdani) includes a modern mosque and minaret, the grave and mausoleum of Hodja Yusuf Hamadani (died in 1140), a Timurid iwan (portal) and a prayer hall. It is located not far from the Seljuk citadel. This complex has been

• published: 15 May 2015
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