1. Sarah Wiener im Hamburger Bahnhof: Berlin's smartest museum cafe is the domain of culinary star Sarah Wiener, famous as much for her classic veal schnitzel as for her tasty Sachertorte (Sacher cake) and other Austrian cakes. The huge, high-ceilinged room gets texture from a long bar, patterned stone floor, dimmed lights and various conversation corners where artsy types discuss the latest museum exhibit. (Address: Invalidenstrasse 50-51). 2. Sasaya: Whatever you order at this minimalist space has perfect pitch -- sushi to salads, tempura to fish. Tables fill quickly with Japanese expats and plugged-in locals, so it's best to make reservations several days ahead. (Address: Lychener Strasse 50). 3. Schleusenkrug: Sitting pretty on the edge of the Tiergarten, next to a Landwehrkanal lock, Schleusenkrug truly comes into its own in summer when the beer garden kicks into full swing. People from all walks of life hunker over mugs of foamy beer and satisfying comfort food, from grilled sausages to Flammkuche (Alsatian pizza) and weekly changing specials. Breakfast is served until 3pm. (Address: Müller-Breslau-Strasse). 4. Schneeweiss: The chilly-chic all-white decor with the eye-catching 'ice' chandelier is only the first thing to tip you off that Snow White is no student nosh spot. The menu here is inspired by the Alps, from classics like schnitzel or Spätzle to more innovative territory like braised ox cheeks or duck breast with bramble berries. The weekend brunch is a perennial bestseller. (Address: Simplonstrasse 16). 5. Schrader's: The décor is as globally eclectic as the menu in this thriving café-lounge-restaurant where Buddha meets Arabic brass tables meets grandma's plush sofa. The kitchen churns out pizzas, pasta, salads and tapas in ways a lot more exciting than it sounds. On Sundays clued-in locals worship at the brunch altar until 3pm. (Address: Malpla­quetstrasse 16b). 6. Schusterjunge: At this rustic corner pub, authentic Berlin charm is doled out with as much abandon as the delish home cooking. Big platters of goulash, roast pork and Sauerbraten feed both tummy and soul as do the regionally brewed Bürgerbräu and Bernauer Schwarzbier. (Address: Danziger Strasse 9). 7. Schwarzer Hahn: The select menu at this delightful slow-food bistro shines the spotlight on regionally sourced German soul food, elegantly updated for the 21st century. Service is impeccable and so are the wines. The two-course lunches are superb value at just €6.50. At dinnertime, it's best to reserve ahead for seats at the long communal wooden table or the handful of private ones. (Address: Seumestrasse 23). 8. Schwarzes Café: Not many cafes have shown as much staying power as this rambling multi-floor icon which has plied an all-ages cast of natives and tourists with bites, beer and breakfast around the clock since 1978. The toilets are a hoot, the little garden idyllic. (Address: Kantstrasse 148). 9. Schwarzwaldstuben: In the mood for a Hansel and Gretel moment? Then join the other 'lost kids' in this send-up of the Black Forest complete with plastic pines and baseball-capped Bambi heads. We can't get enough of the 'geschmelzte Maultaschen' (sautéed ravioli-like pasta) and the giant schnitzel. Everything goes down well with a glass of Rothaus Tannenzäpfle beer, straight from the Black Forest. (Address: Tucholskystrasse 48). 10. Seerose: This been-here-forever cafe tempts taste buds with fresh, creative and completely animal-free pastas, casseroles, soups, salads and other healthy nosh. Order at the buffet-style counter, then start salivating at a pavement table or inside amid antique furniture and plenty of plants. (Address: Mehringdamm 47). 11. Shiro I Shiro: This groovy 'white castle' with its playful fairytale décor is a bit too chichi for most Berliners, but despite the heavy tourist quotient the nouveau Japanese food is surprisingly good. Keep it simple with à la carte sushi or test the chefs' talent by ordering tuna tataki (with foie gras and herbed risotto) or kohitsuji (lamb and feta in miso-peanut sauce). Desserts are art on a platter. Don't skip. (Address: Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 11). 12. Si An: Sian Truong used to manage Monsieur Vuong in Mitte, the place that started the Vietnamese food craze in Berlin. His own stylish nosh spot is considerably less hectic and welcomes a steady stream of tousled hipsters, yoga mamas and even the occasional celeb. Everything's prepared freshly, seasonally, healthily and using traditional recipes from the ancient monasteries of Vietnam. Afterwards wind down in the adjacent teahouse. (Address: Rykestrasse 36).

• published: 17 Nov 2013
• views: 984