Part 1 leon (Nicaragua)

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• published: 16 Mar 2013
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León is one of the oldest cities in Nicaragua. León is named after León, Spain. After independence, the elites of León and Granada struggled over which city would be the capital. León was dominated by the liberals and Granada by the conservatives. The fighting ended when Managua became the capital. After Granada, which is better preserved, León has the best colonial architecture in Nicaragua. It is a university town that stubbornly remains somewhat pro-Sandinista. During the 1979 revolution, the Sandinistas took over León in violent street by street fighting. Somoza then had the city bombed, an unforgivable move considering he was bombing his own people. The National Guard took León back over, again in street by street fighting, but this time less intense since the Sandinistas melted away. Finally, the Sandinistas took León back over and held it until the Somoza government fell. You can still see bullet marks on some buildings. Also, there is a shell of a church on the road out of town that was destroyed during the bombing. Across the street from this church is the Museo de las Mytos y Leyendas Tradiciones (Museum of Myths and Legends), which prominently displays a statute of a Sandinista guerrilla holding a handmade bomb. Some sarcastically call it the Museo de las Traiciones (Museum of the Treasons) as a reference to how the Sandinista rank and file has been cheated by Daniel Ortega and the rest of the Sandinista elite. León used to be the hub of cotton growing but that has declined. The economy is relatively depressed. Tourists are typically not a large, visible presence in León, though it is popular among backpackers and as of late, tour groups. (In comparison to Granada, there are fewer tourists) León still is a university town, filled with students. Backpackers, volunteers and other extranjeros usually meld with local students.León has more colonial churches and cathedrals per capita than any other place in Nicaragua. If you are still on the church tour, there are thirteen to check out in town. León Cathedral - this is the biggest cathedral in Central America. The story goes that the construction plans sent back to Spain for approval showed smaller dimensions, because they were afraid the Church wouldn't approve such a large cathedral, although this story has been debunked. The cathedral is also the final resting place of Ruben Dario, as well as many other notable Nicaraguans. You can pay a small fee to climb the stairs up to the roof, where you can get a nice view of all of León's churches and the surrounding volcanoes, and you can go into the cellars beneath the cathedral. On the roof you can see close up the giant sculptures holding up the cathedral bells, just don't ring them. Iglesia de San Juan Bautista de Subtiava - one of the oldest colonial churches in Leon, the church has served a traditionally indigenous community. The rustic wood interior is a pleasant deviance from the often ornate styles that are more typical of the period. Fundacion Ortiz - is an artistic treasure trove. It has a collection of European masters and a stunning collection of Latin American art. Centro de Arte Fundación Ortiz Gurdián, This privately supported centre is perhaps the finest art museum in Nicaragua. Showcases both international and Central American artists of various periods and media.