10/27/14: The day started on a very interesting note as we came across a group of people that were spreading corn on the side of the road to dry. Sudha explained that the people of the area have the right to use the road and vehicles just go around the “claimed” section. It was a little weird at the beginning because we were all thinking that the delicious bread you had been eating all this time came from corn that at some point was also spread out on some road, but we were told that this corn was meant for cattle feed (and I choose to believe it ). There was a truck with the back section full of corn and men and women were loading bags, which were then emptied on the road sequentially. The bag weight was listed at a little over 50 kilos, which is over 110 pounds! It was mostly the men that were transporting the bags on their heads or shoulders, but some women did so as well. Then with bare feet the corn was spread out to a consistent layer to dry in the sun. We did not stay till they finished, but when they do, they leave and trust that no one will touch their corn until they come back to collect it. Then we visited the Kanadukathan village, designated a Heritage village by the Indian government and photographed a palatial looking building with beautiful stained glass windows and gorgeous grills that belongs to a Maharaja. Kanadukathan is one of over 90 villages in the Chettinad region, which has many mansions of exquisite architecture, with marvelous woodwork, beautifully carved pillars, meticulously planned interiors and colorful exteriors. There is one house at Karaikudi which boasts of 1,000 windows. This area has been a retreat of very rich people for well over a century, and while some of the buildings seem to be rustic and neglected, others are beautifully maintained and are used by their owners, usually not on a full time basis, but for when they want to get away and relax. The term Chettiar or Chetty is a title used by various mercantile castes in South India, especially in the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala and derives from a word meaning "wealth". Chettinad is considered the home of Nattukkottai Chettiars, a community considered to be the pioneers of mortgages and modern banking. They were a community that had considerable power and conducted business with royalty and the elites of society. They lead a very luxurious lifestyle and their palatial mansions were stuffed with imported period furniture, chandeliers, curios, and paintings from around the world. After a period of decline the area is changing again. There are crumbling buildings and poverty, but there are also many beautifully renovated mansions that obviously house very rich owners/clients. Many of the old mansions have been sold, refurbished and converted into gorgeous hotels. For lunch we stopped at one of these converted mansions, called “La Bangala” at Karaikudi village, that is run by a local Chettiar family as a hotel / restaurant. We were served a delicious traditional Indian meal with chutneys, amazing goat meat and liver prepared with a unique blend of spices and served on banana leaves. It was quite an experience that satisfied both our souls and our stomachs! Later on we took tuk-tuks to go to the Bazar of Madurai. Madurai at night is absolutely amazing. The Tuk-Tuk ride was an adventure by itself! My driver was constantly honking his horn that sounded like a barking dog and was weaving in and out of lanes cutting everyone off, regardless whether they were on foot, bikes, or cars. I think he was only considerate of cows! But I felt totally safe throughout the entire ride because he was obviously an expert and in total control. There had been recent rain and the streets were flooded. It is impressive how we humans adapt to our environment. Women dressed in beautiful sarees were walking nonchalant through the foot deep water. I hope the video conveys a little of the wonder that is Madurai by night. The visit to the bazaar was another unforgettable experience. Everything was eye-catching. The building where the market is housed is unbelievable. It has such beautiful columns and carvings that it could have been a tourist destination as a historical attraction. They have so many temples they turned one into a market! Our last, but definitely not least stop was at a stand of a family selling Masala Milk. We were told that they are famous for the special way of mixing the beverage, but I had never heard of it. Again, it has to be seen to be believed! The person serving us was mixing the liquid by pouring it from one container to another. The amazing part is that the distance between the vessels was sometimes three feet or more – and this without spilling a single drop! The liquid looked as if it was made out of plastic, but believe me, it was not – they served us at the end and it was delicious! What a great day!

• published: 21 Apr 2015
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