Just in case you thought I was slacking off, I rewrote my “Don’t bow” post and got it published in today’s Jamaica Observer. If you want to see it, you’ll have to register for the E-paper version (free) because the normal online version does not publish the full paper. My bit is in the “Bookends” section.
Thanks to Charlene and Sharon.
In the week before Christmas, many of the poorer areas of Kingston get a quick makeover, as hundreds of local residents hack at overgrown pavements and daub the kerbs with whitewash. They are motivated not by a spontaneous burst of civic pride, but rather by the promise of a day’s work, usually paid for by the local politician. For some, it will be one of a few rare days of paid employment each year. It is noticeable, but not surprising, that most of the workers are women.
Although J$1,000 per day is surely welcome at this time of year, it does little to break the culture of clientelism and certainly falls short of providing long-term benefit to the individuals or the community.
As the Jamaican-Chinese proverb says:
Give a gyal a brush an’ she paint for a day. Give ‘er a heducation, a microcredit loan, a clean and safe environment
…Ah man! Jus’ give ‘er de damn brush, y’hear?!
Following the previous post about poor service, I felt I should balance it with a post about how difficult it is to run a small business in Jamaica, particularly when it comes to getting a loan. Shortly after we arrived in Jamaica last year, we considered taking out a loan to buy a car. Our bank was heavily advertising a loan promotion for buying a new car from certain local dealers. The way it was presented you’d imagine the interest rate was the lowest figure ever quoted in the history of financing. It was 18.75%.
We asked about loans for other purchases (we wanted, still want, some bookcases). In that case, the interest would be 33%! We were fortunate enough to be able to get a loan in Europe … at 6%, but few Jamaicans have that possibility.
I remember visiting a small town in Alsace many years ago. One section of the town had been the Jewish quarter. In the Middle Ages, only Jews were allowed to loan money (usury was considered sinful for Christians), and, what with the rising costs of financing military adventures overseas (plus ça change …), the local princes were all soon heavily in debt to the lenders. No problem. The princes simply banded together, whipped up some anti-semitic feeling, and slaughtered all the Jews. Debts cancelled.
And I bet they charged less than 33%.
Here is another example of high interest rates presented as if you should be amazed and grateful.
At this rate you can’t wait? In any case, after your “grace” period at 29%, you may freak out when you learn the normal rate is 49.5%. Ooops! Forgot to mention that, did they?
Look at that woman. She looks positively demented, or at least seriously unbalanced, judging by the way she seems to be staggering.
And what about her face?
Is she really happy
or is she actually
running away
screaming?
(This is the kind of chain-mail I get in Jamaica)
This is to warn persons who intend to go shopping in the plazas this Christmas. Please be very careful, and ladies don’t walk alone. My cousin was held up yesterday (Friday, 8th December, 2006) in the Springs Plaza at 4:30 in the afternoon.
Three teenage boys came up to her, one hugged her (I guess to make it seem like they all know each other) the other two walked up to her then before she could say anything, one with a knife and the other with a bottle of acid. They took her phone and $6,000.00 that she had.
The police are saying this is the new trend of stealing in the Half Way Tree plazas this Christmas season.
Stay sharp!
I had already planned to avoid the area because of the almost permanent gridlock in the car parks at this time of year. Having suffered miserably last year while trying to do Christmas shopping, this year we did everything online. Result: no traffic jams or parking stress, no threats of violence, better quality products and much more choice. The only loser is the Jamaican economy because, apart from local shipping costs, every cent has gone overseas.
Some time ago, I decided to print out a couple of photos at a print shop in uptown Kingston. What occurred there was a prime example of the anti-service culture that is sadly so common in Jamaica.
When I entered the print shop, it was unclear who were customers and who were staff. I asked a gangly youth who was slumped so far back in his chair that he was almost horizontal, one finger clicking PhotoShop long-cuts. He didn’t look up.
Lang yute: What size print you want?
Me: Erm … 4 by 6?
Lang yute: We don’t do dat.
Me: 8 by 6?
Lang yute: We don’t do that.
Me: Well, why don’t you tell what sizes you do or shall I keep guessing till I get the right answer?
Lang yute: *eyeroll* . . . We do 10 by 15.
Me: Centimetres?
Lang yute: Yes.
He was wrong, as I found out twenty minutes later when I was handed a super-sized 10×15 inch print. The irony is that the guy in the back room who actually did the printing had cut the photo paper to order from a large roll — any size was possible.
“Ctrl+A, Del, Ctrl+S, Alt+F4”, I snarled on my way out past the yute.
…
It’s not that the service is bad in the sense that it is performing poorly on a perceived scale of quality; I lived in France and Italy for ten years and am familiar with the important distinction that many civil servants and sales assistants make when they explain, “Non, Madame. I work at this store, not for it.”
That we can term “a-service”, as in an absence of service.
The difference in Jamaica is that sales people often seem to be actively working against closing the deal; in this sense, we can call it an “anti-service” culture.
To give some more examples: It is pointless calling only one company when you need a job done — you should call at least five because the odds are that only one will have the killer combo of interest-competence-drive to actually complete the job. The anti-service providers will initiate auto-destruct by not answering the phone, transferring your call to an unstaffed office, or simply cutting you off just after you’ve explained in great detail what you’re after. If you’re persistent enough to call back, then be prepared to dictate a minutely detailed message with your personal details and instructions as to what she should do with the information. Anticipate repeating message and instructions in full when receptionist mutters not having pen at hand. Do not accept invitation to call back later because the person you need to speak to will not be available at any time you call.
If you actually manage to set up a meeting with the service provider, try to schedule at least three providers to visit. One will not turn up and you will never be able to make contact with him again. The second will come, measure up the job and leave with a promise to drop off an estimate later in the day; he will never return and his office will have no trace of his visit or of any employee with his name. The third, well, you might strike lucky if you are persistent enough with calling, rescheduling, describing the job, explaining how long it will take and how much money they will earn.
Needless to say, once you find someone willing and able to do the job, cherish them, for they are a rare and precious thing in Jamaica.
I’ve added a test gallery of some of my photos, with a discreet link in the sidebar.
In case it’s too discreet, here’s the link.
What do you think?