CAMPECHE: WORDS AND PICTURES BY ROBIN NOWACKI..........An olive green blanket of rain forest stretches away 40 miles to the horizon, above it wisps of smoke rise from distant village fires, flocks of squawking jungle birds - perhaps disturbed by a jaguar on the ground - float high in the humid air, remote white pyramids are caught brightly by the tropical sun - under a deep blue sky broken only by tiny white clouds. This is the view that filled my eyes after the steep climb to the top of Calakmul’s greatest pyramid, a view which has remained the same since it was first seen by the Mayan Indians when they built this city over 2,000 years ago. Incredibly some 6,000 other structures dating from the times of this ancient civilisation lie hidden and unexcavated in the surrounding forest. Situated in what is now the Campeche region of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsular, this vast archaeological site lies deep within it’s own biosphere reserve, an hour from the nearest road down a trail crossed by howler monkeys, tapirs, and those jaguars busily scaring the parquets. Outside the reserve there are no fast food establishments to be found within a hundred miles - apart from a few road side stalls selling fresh home produced chicken or cheese fajitas. What is more the local hotels are distinctly different in style to the international chain norm - with comfortable secluded rooms situated in cabins or small casitas strung out along paths on the edge of the forest separated by the jungle plants. Such accommodation is on offer at the Chicanna Ecovillage - close to the Becan Mayan site, and at the more exclusive Hacienda Uayamon near the spectacular Edzna site. This is typical of Campeche where nature, history, and tourism quietly blend together. Add this mixture to wonderful local dishes using fresh produce including seafood from the Gulf of Mexico, and this State bordering Guatemala is perfect for the traveller seeking an alternative type of Mexican vacation - far removed from the mass tourism to be found in eastern Yucatan at Cancun and now even at some Mayan sites like Chichen Itza and Tulum. A few days before visiting Calakmul in the Port of Campeche - founded nearly five hundred years ago by Spanish Conquistadors who displaced the native Mayans, I had walked the City walls - fanned by warm inshore breezes from the Gulf of Mexico. These massive ramparts had been built by the Spanish in the 18th century who found themselves coming under attack from English and Dutch pirates seeking to plunder the riches found in this part of the New World, before they could be shipped across the Atlantic to the King of Spain. From this high vantage point overlooking the roof tops of the beautiful unspoilt 16th century centre of Campeche, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999, it was easy like at Calakmul to drift back through the centuries and imagine being a Spanish guard on watch, nervously looking in the direction of the sea for any signs of marauding buccaneers. Earlier I had walked the old stone cobbled streets of Campeche - no famous high street branding here, just family run shops selling everything from panamas hats to perfumes, and craft shops selling leather goods, jewellery, pottery, and the hand woven hammock I had purchased for my garden in England 5,000 miles away. At La Pigua restaurant (open only 12 noon to 6 PM) I had dined on king prawns from the Gulf coated in coconut then fried in oil devilled with chillies, this was followed by squids cooked in their own ink and then by real home made vanilla and coconut ice cream - all fresh local produce. In the evening the citizens of Campeche gravitate towards the main square, the Zocalo, where in front of the cathedral there is live music and dancing alternating between the traditional and the modern Mexican sounds of the Tropical and Salsa rhythms. In keeping with this very traditional region many of the teenage girl dancers are still accompanied by chaperones. In the surrounding restaurants, as the tropical heat diminishes, the few tourists who find their way to Campeche can sample other local culinary delights such as Orchata - a non-alcoholic drink made of rice, cold milk, and a variety of fresh fruits, and Rellena - sea food tortillas. At Los Portales restaurant in the San Francisco district the Pancuchos - turkey, onion and red bean tacos, and Tamales - black beans in sauce will add new dimensions to diners Mexican gourmet experience.

• published: 07 Apr 2014
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