Brew Britannia is the story of the regeneration of brewing beer in Britain. Whether it is craft or real ale it’s not so much about definitions or technicalities, but quality and taste. Despite the cynical commercial appeal to patriotism in the title of the book it’s also about how beer and brewing went cosmopolitan : American and New Zealand hops,Belgian style beers,black IPA’s, wild yeast, and more . where did the cultural rebirth of choice and flavour begin?
For Boak and Bailey it begins not with the foundation of CAMRA , but with the beer from the wood men. These are a society of boozy eccentrics who stood apart from the widespread availability of poor quality keg beer in the 1960’s, and the awful steel cans which contained the tasteless fizzy stuff. The book also ends with Society for the Appreciation of Beer from the Wood who are still flying the Utopian flag for the wooden barrel. CAMRA are not seen as a flat earth society in the sense of the beer from the wood men. But our duo’s view of CAMRA’s achievements by the early 1980’s is put in market terms: “cask conditioned beer was never again to be the everyday drink of the people, but CAMRA could claim to have saved it as a niche product.” (1)Some niche CAMRA might say.
Jessica and Ray think CAMRA should be proud of demonstrating that a market for beers with taste existed. But over the years most drinkers have been practically excluded from quality and choice by the domination of the market by huge companies. During the 1970’s when CAMRA emerged it was the big six brewers who monopolized the market : Ind Coope,Taylor Walker,Watney mann,Courage and Barclay,Bass Ratcliffe Gratton,and Whitbread and Scottish brewers. It was all about profit to the exclusion of taste and quality. For big business brewing it’s about what people are persuaded to accept via expensive advertising or leaving the working class drinker with Hobson’s choice. Is CAMRA’s role simply to provide a business opportunity? When the good beer guide emerged it provided the opportunity for beer drinkers to enjoy the best beer then available.
The narrative presents the origins of CAMRA warts and all. Michael Hardman,Bill Walker,Graham Lees and Jim Makin conceived the idea of a campaign for some kind of good ale after experiencing some awful beer on a pub crawl in Chester on 20th of March 1971. But the founding idea remained vague. Lees had taken the initiative of issuing membership cards,but it was not until Lees and Hardman met up again for drinks in Chester in 1972 that the idea began to become reality. In the same year a drunken organisational meeting took place in Nuneaton, at the Rose and Crown, and a committee was elected. The publicly organised campaign for real ale was on its way. Then at the 1973 AGM things got really serious. Hardman and Lees were joined by a new leader,Christopher Hutt. Then there was the victorious publicity battle with Grotneys, and the ultimate tasteless fizz, red barrel. Watney’s red revolution was more a counter-revolution in brewing.Its reputation deserved to be trashed as CAMRA members spread the word.
Our authors describe the small Independent Brewers Society( SIBA ) in the late 1980’s as oddballs for making proposals to the government to break the monopoly of the huge brewing companies over pubs. SIBA’s suggestions were part of the framing of legislation which became known as the Beer Orders.This limited the number of pubs that could be tied to the big brewers to 2,000 with a guest beer allowed. Jessica and Rays understanding of what took place is a condescending top down view. Their conclusion is that “SIBA’s position was either hopelessly optimistic-based on a belief that the big brewers were bluffing in their threat to walk away from brewing or born of a downright anarchistic desire to destroy the system and then rebuild it in their own image.” (2) It’s a curious conclusion in the light of their narrative and does not do justice to SIBA or anarchists.
The beer orders legislation was botched : an unprincipled and sloppy compromise that pleased no one. Blame the government and the legislators. Yet Boak and Bailey’s view is that severing the tie’s between the big brewers and their pubs over the course of the next decade was a catastrophic rendering asunder of the symbiotic relationship between the pub and brewing industries. They resent SIBA success in lobbying government. Jessica and Ray regret that all the historical brewing tradition was put down the toilet. Think of Whitbread established in 1742 and Bass established-1777 : all that tradition gone. Jessica and Ray assert that the real beneficiaries were not ordinary pub goers, but beer geeks who wanted flavour and novelty. It’s a patronising view of the ordinary drinker who when given significant choice of beers, as in Sheffield, abandon the mediocre stuff.
Their attempt to draw a line between hard-nosed pub companies which emerged, and the old-established Beer industry is simply not credible from a rank and file drinkers point of view. It misses the point of why CAMRA was born. It is also inconsistent with earlier points made in the book. The Brewing tradition was already been trampled over by the big brewers. The historic labels were so much hollow brands. It was all about the size of the profit. It was the logic of market competition: big brewer swallowing small brewers and their pubs. Many grass-roots drinkers wanted pubs free of the brewery ties so that all pubs could sell a range of beers in which taste and quality would be accessible to everyone. Instead, all kinds of complicated arrangements were put in place which circumvented the ‘anarchist’ dream of as many beers as possible being freely available in the local pub or bar.
The guest beer rule and culture was established, even though it was undermined by pub chain restrictions of beer choice, and regional brewers providing their own guest beer. The worst aspects of the old monopoly such as the pubs in entire towns taken over by one brewery, such as Watney in Norwich, was ended. Wetherspoons developed even further to bring guest real ales to most High Streets. CAMRA had supported the pub tie for small family brewers in their proposals for the Beer Orders. CAMRA had worked with these small regional family brewers to combat the big six brewers at the high tide of cheap fizzy keg beers in the 1970’s. At the time these brewers and their pubs were a refuge for beer drinkers who could find nothing better.
Nevertheless, CAMRA’s link with the regional family brewer probably became too comfortable. Some regional brewers tended to brew boring middle of the road beers. This left a vacuum for the tiny innovative brewer to provide beer for those looking for more taste and quality. In a sense CAMRA has always been a moderate campaign: real ale however mediocre, and bland, is valued. The guiding principle was the definition of real ale as a living beer kept in its natural condition and not pasteurized, and dispensed from casks and barrels without the addition of extraneous CO2. Revealingly this definition was formulated after CAMRA got underway. This stress on real ale tended to obscure the issue of good beer,even if it did highlight the poor quality of Keg beer from the big companies.
Having said that, CAMRA instigated something of a cultural revolution to raise the issue of taste and quality up from some very low points.The lowest point was Red Barrel. According to Boak and Bailey, one of the brewers of this dire tasting beer admitted that it was brewed using a quantity of cheap unmalted raw barley broken down with added enzymes. This is what the logic of the free market concentration of brewers as massive beer factories had led. “By 1976 there were just 147 breweries in existence in the UK owned by 82 companies.”(3) John keeling a highly trained brewer explains the attitude of this industry towards flavour : the more interesting the taste of the beer the less interested the brewery would be in the beer. Beer was brewed for an imaginary average drinker who would not like too much twang or taste. Did new world hops taste of Cat’s piss or Gooseberry?
In the late 1970’s and early 1980’s there was the development of brew pubs which began to offer an alternative to the big brewer. One of the most influential was probably Dave Wickett’s Fat Cat in Sheffield which kick started a process which led to Sheffield becoming a mecca for good beer. In 1981 Dave bought a failed derelict pub and opened it as a genuine free house. Against the advice of a local brewer from Wards he insisted on hand-pumps and cask beer. It was difficult to find a supplier. Then Timothy Taylors of Keithly stepped in to supply Taylors Landlord which was then a very complex beer. Later Dave started brewing in back yard of the pub in Kelham Island an old steel city industrial area. The spin-off from this development was more brewers and then breweries such as Bradfield, Ossett and Abbydale .Dave also helped Thornbridge to set up their innovative brewery. Another Kelham Island brewery exile Stuart Ross set up Magic Rock in Huddersfield, with Richard Burhouse.
Jessica and Ray give some prominence to David Bruce in London who in the late 1980’s was intelligent enough to see that two derelict unused building of some architectural interest,the Duke of York in Southwark and an old railway ticket office in Camberwell would make great drinking spaces. The first would be renamed the Goose and Firkin and the second was given the title of the Phoenix and Firkin. They do not criticise Bruce for charging premium prices or overcharging for his very basic brew pub beer. However, according to Jessica and Ray there was a creative spin-off as brewers and brew kit was redistributed when Bruce sold up and sold out in the mid 1980’s and was left with a mere two million quid. It was not that Bruce did anything spectacular; he didn’t have to because the competition was so bad. Many South London Pubs in the area were soulless run down dreary places with little or no customer service skills.
The rise of the small breweries was intensified and amplified by the significant reduction in beer duty for the small brewer in 2002. Jessica and Ray inform us that following the introduction of the progressive beer duty between 2003 and 2005 more than a hundred new firms came into existence. These included what were to become some of the most dynamic and innovative Breweries such as Thornbridge and Brew dog. The pioneers for innovation included John Gilbert and his Hop Back Summer Lightning, Saun Franlin’s Roosers Yankee,and Brendan Dobbin at the kings arms in Manchester experimenting with American hops. The main direction was towards paler beers and American hops such as cascade. At first Thornbridge produced the very uninspiring traditional style bitter Lord Marples, but then found their brewing mojo with the creation of Jaipur in July 2005. Brew Dog had cask Punk IPA in 2006 and a flair for publicity.The young brewer Martin Dickie was involved in both ventures.
The explosion of micro- breweries included : Magic Rock, Mallinsons, Red Willow,Tiny Rebel,Black Jack ,Arbor, Kernal, Meantime, Wild Beer Company, Camden Town Brewery, Hardknott,and many more. There is a mixture of real ale and craft keg beers in this short list. No definition is entirely satisfactory,but hand craft keg beer is brewed using traditional methods sometimes without filtration and pasteurization, but with more flavour than the traditional poor quality keg product. As a leading member of Sheffield CAMRA put it to the reviewer in the brew dog bar in Sheffield : if you put shite in you get shite out. On the other hand if you put quality and taste in -there is a different outcome. Exactly.
The availability of the beers from these breweries to beer drinkers has been provided by such bars as Jamie Hawksworth’s Sheffield Tap. Jamie saw the opportunity to utilize two beautiful, but long neglected Victorian tiled rooms, which were once the first class refreshment room and restaurant on Sheffield train station. Over two hundred world bottled beers and a wide range of keg fonts and hand-pumps offer an uncompromising range of choice which excludes Carling, John Smiths and Guinness. Now a brewery has been added. There have been significant price hikes,particularly on bottled beer, since the empire building began in York, London, Leeds and elsewhere. Yet unlike David Bruce : it’s premium prices for premium beer.Again Dave Wickett was the trail blazer in Sheffield with the Devonshire Cat. When he was involved it offered about a hundred bottled beers from all over the world as well as a cask beers. Jessica and Ray point to the white Horse, Parsons Green,London, as a pub that introduced a selection of bottled IPA’s as early as 1990.
Beer drinkers have never had it so good. Yet Boak and Bailey end their book with a sense of paradox and pessimism. Everything appears to have changed. The 1970’s CAMRA aspiration of Adnam’s and Fuller’s beer on every high street has been surpassed with a dazzling range of innovative and experimental beer styles from all over the world.Yet in one sense everything remains the same. The rich and powerful brewers of bland lager still dominate the market. There is also a tendency for small brewers such as Brew dog to imitate the corporate top dogs. Will Brew dog’s craft keg become simply keg? The new Campaign For Really Good Beer could go the way of CAMRA with a corporate central office where no young or old radical firebrands can be found. And have we not reached the outer limits of innovation. Has the frontier of experimental beers been reached?
Adam Smith once wrote that the brewer, however small, puts beer on our table not out of pure respect for our taste in beer, but self-interest or profit. This has its own capitalist logic : concentration,and monopoly. The free market is a myth. State intervention was always present. State intervention has assisted our small brewing entrepreneurs to make money by brewing beers to meet our taste needs, but the state cannot be a solution for the worries of Boak and Bailey. A state-run industry would simply replicate the evils of the big brewers. At the high tide of political militancy in the 1970’s CAMRA could only pose the alternative of a CAMRA run pub chain. Not even a CAMRA cooperative enterprise was attempted. We could just simply enjoy the revitalisation of beer in Britain while we can. Then again,in his utopia, News from Nowhere,William Morris imagined local communes rotating jobs for people to provide things for the community. If every cook can govern,every drinker can brew. Now there’s a drunken thought.
Barry Biddulph
Notes
1 Jessica Boak and Ray Bailey, Brew Britannia. The strange Rebirth of British Beer, London, Aurum Press,2014,p.111
2 p.144
3 p.2
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