Paula Gerbase Studio Interview - Woolrich Black Label Fall Winter 2011

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• published: 16 Feb 2011
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Woolrich John Rich & Bros launches a new Black Label collection for ladies, and names Paula Gerbase as Creative Director for the new John Rich & Bros. premium women's line. The Woolrich John Rich & Bros. Black Label collection has given London based designer, Paula Gerbase, a new platform to continue and further develop her exploration of femininity versus masculinity. Woolrich heritage archived pieces were the starting point and main inspiration for this first collaboration between Woolrich John Rich & Bros. and Gerbase. Throughout the design process she studied traditional Woolrich hunting and fishing garments and stripped them down. Looking at the softer, inner workings of the garments, and searching for a lighter, more feminine take on the predominantly masculine sporting garments provided endless inspiration. This pairing down of functional men's outdoor garments led to a lighter feeling and more paired down shapes for women, synonymous with the designer's own distinct handwriting. Taking a very masculine garment and drawing out the feminine by taking it to its bare essentials. Linings, under garments, layering pieces, detachable liners were all studied and used as the base for the collection. Fabrics contrast the heavy and the light, the opaque and the diaphanous. Further underlining the contrasts, soft wool melton was rendered in a fading buffalo check in muted colors, mirrored in a print on silk georgette. Subtlety, femininity, purity, heritage and modern function were all Gerbase's passion for the process of garment, fabric construction and microscopic attention to detail which is all directly mirrored in the history of Woolrich. The project allowed the designer to further explore her passion for textiles, by taking on the opportunity to collaborate with one of the oldest Woolen Mills in the United States, and with a brand whose individuality and principles are so similar to her own. Gerbase's unique aesthetic manifests itself for Autumn | Winter 2011 through exclusive woolen yarns and constructions, unique silk prints and fading cashmere knits, all interpreted in harmonized downplayed shapes and contrasting proportions for the modern Woolrich John Rich & Bros. woman.