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Elizabeth Arden
Elizabeth Arden (1939)
Born	Florence Nightingale Graham (1884-12-31)December 31, 1884 Woodbridge, Ontario, Canada
Died	October 18, 1966(1966-10-18) (aged 81) New York City, New York, US
Occupation	Businesswoman: Cosmetics Racehorse owner/breeder

Florence Nightingale Graham (December 31, 1884 – October 18, 1966), who went by the business name Elizabeth Arden, was a Canadian-American businesswoman who founded what is now Elizabeth Arden, Incorporated, and built a cosmetics empire in the United States. At the peak of her career, she was one of the wealthiest women in the world.

Biography[link]

Arden was born in 1884 in Woodbridge, Ontario, Canada. Her parents had emigrated to Canada from Cornwall, United Kingdom in the 1870s. Her father, William Graham, was Scottish and her mother, Susan, was Cornish and had arranged for a wealthy aunt in Cornwall to pay for her children's education.^[1] Arden dropped out of nursing school in Toronto.^[2]

She then joined her elder brother in New York City, working briefly as a bookkeeper for the E.R. Squibb Pharmaceuticals Company. While there, Arden spent hours in their lab, learning about skincare. She then worked—again briefly—for Eleanor Adair, an early beauty culturist, as a "treatment girl".

Career[link]

In 1909 Arden formed a partnership with Elizabeth Hubbard, another culturist. When the partnership dissolved, she coined the business name "Elizabeth Arden" from her former partner and from Tennyson's poem "Enoch Arden". With a $6,000 loan from her brother, she then used the shop space to open her first salon on 5th Avenue. The name red door salon was also a stroke of genius. In those days, all building were grey in colour and looked alike so to create a point of difference, she painted the door to her salon red! Thus the name red door salon was born.

What is also interesting to know is so many beauty brands start their business in department stores through counters. There were only 2 brands that began their business with salons: Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein.

In 1912 Arden travelled to France to learn beauty and facial massage techniques used in the Paris beauty salons. She returned with a collection of rouges and tinted powders she had created. In an era when it was generally acceptable for only entertainers to wear makeup, Arden introduced modern eye makeup to North America. She also introduced the concept of the "makeover" in her salons.

Arden collaborated with A. Fabian Swanson, a chemist, to create a "fluffy" face cream. The success of the cream, Venetian Cream Amoretta, and corresponding lotion, Arden Skin Tonic, led to a long-lasting business relationship. This revolutionized cosmetics, bringing a scientific approach to formulations. Other innovations included creating foundations that matched a person's skin tone; creating the idea of the "Total Look" in which lip, cheek, and fingernail colors matched or coordinated; and the first to make a cosmetics commercial shown in movie houses.

During World War II, Arden recognized the changing needs of the American woman entering the work force. She showed women how to apply makeup and dress appropriately for careers outside the home. She created a lipstick called Montezuma Red, for the women in the armed forces that would match the red on their uniforms. Although most of her commercial success was in cosmetics, she also pioneered restorative musical exercises based on yoga. She started a fashion business in 1943 with notable designers like Charles James and Oscar de la Renta on staff. By the mid-1930s, she committed to owning thoroughbred horses and to racing them in the US.

She began expanding her international operations in 1915, and started opening salons across the world. By the end of 1930s, it was said that "There are only three American names that are known in every single corner of the globe: Singer sewing machines, Coca Cola, and Elizabeth Arden." A fact proved by Heinrich Harrer in his book Seven Years in Tibet, where he stated that it's possible to buy Arden's products—even in Tibet. At the peak of her career, she had a salon in New York, Washington, Boston, Chicago, Beverly Hills, San Francisco, Maine, Arizona, Phoenix, Southhampton, Surfside, Palm Beach, Philadelphia, Honolulu, Lima. Toronto, Montreal, Melbourne, Sydney, Hong Kong, Singapore, Johannesburg, London, Paris, Zurich, Vienna, Milan, Rome, Cannes, Madrid, Brussels, Copenhagen, The Hague, London, Ontario, Cape Town, Nassau, Tulsa, Quebec City, and Biarritz. She launched all of them personally and she owned all of them except the one in Paris, which she gave to her sister, Gladys, Vicomtesse de Maublanc.

From the 1930s through the 1960s, Elizabeth Arden Inc competed as one of the most upscale cosmetics brands,^{[citation needed]} with celebrated patrons including Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth II, Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Wallis Simpson and Mamie Eisenhower. 1934 saw the successful introduction of Blue Grass, perhaps the first all-American scent—and which remains on the market today.^{[citation needed]}

The footstone of Elizabeth Arden

The grave of Elizabeth Arden in Sleepy Hollow Cemetery

In recognition of her contribution to the cosmetics industry, she was awarded the Légion d'Honneur by the French government in 1962.

Arden died in New York City in 1966; she was interred in the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery in Sleepy Hollow, New York, under the name Elizabeth N. Graham.

Towards the end of her life, Arden seemingly did not accept her mortality; she failed to arrange her affairs to minimize estate and inheritance taxes. After her death, the company and private estate were heavily taxed, reducing the latter to some US$40 million net worth at a time when her horse-farm operations required up to $10 million annually.^{[citation needed]}. The company liquidated many worldwide salons to pay taxes. Her survivors were obliged to sell Main Chance Farm and to auction many Arden personal assets as well.

A feature-length documentary film The Powder and the Glory (2009) by Ann Carol Grossman and Arnie Reisman, details the rivalry between Arden and Helena Rubinstein.

Innovations[link]

Ask most people today to tell you which beauty brand first comes to their mind and the likelihood is the brand Elizabeth Arden would be last of the list. But what most people are unaware that this is the brand that pioneered many innovations that were way ahead of its competitors.

Since the beginning of the brand and all the way to the early 20th century, Arden was at the forefront of skincare innovations, creating products that were way ahead of its time.

1) 8 hour cream: This isn't just cult favourite among celebrities, makeup artists worldwide for no reason. In fact, this was the first beauty product in the beauty world that contains Salicylic Acid, which allows it gently exfoliate the skin. It's ability to treat all kinds of skin concerns is a miracle itself. The product can be used as a lip balm to treat chapped lips, soothing sunburn skin, blusher, brow groomer and for manicures and pedicures. It was said that in Kylie Minogue's MTV "can't get you out of my head", this cream was spread all over her body to create that beautiful shimmery look you see on her body. The name 8 hour came actually from a customer whom used the product on her son and said the chapped skin was healed in 8 hours. To date, no other product comes close to making such as similar claim.

2) Ceramide technology and the capsules packaging: Ask anyone when the word ceramide is mentioned, which beauty brand would they think of and the answer will almost likely be 99.9% Elizabeth Arden. Cermaides are part of our skin's natural intercellular lipids that helps to prevent moisture loss and prevent external aggression from entering the skin. Arden pioneering the discovery of Ceramides and became the first cosmetic company to produce bio-engineered ceramides. To date this technology is still so much associated with Arden that no other major cosmetic company dared to shout that they too use ceramides except for certain brand's haircare line.

The other related innovation from Arden was the offering of bio-engineered Ceramides in individual-doses in the form of capsules. This innovation allows for easy usage but more importantly allow the product to be concentrate, potent and preservative-free, which is unheard of in the 70s. So the discovery of bio-engineered ceramides and the capsules packaging together is a powerful force and remains till today a Arden signature and symbol. Until now no other prestige beauty company has ever dared to copy this concept.

3) Visible difference refining moisture cream complex Arden R&D created one of the most successful moisturisers back in the 70s. While most moisturisers keep the skin comfortable and well-hydrated. Arden introduce Visible Difference Refining Moisture Cream Complex / RMCC in short, which claims to promote smoother, more refined skin in 21days. This product became so famous that in Taiwan, as the name was too long, loyal customers simply call it the 21 days cream. To date, this product still remains a staple in the product assortment of the brand and continues to do well among those who have used it.

4) Home DIY peels: During the 80s, peels were considered the next hottest beauty treatment in the industry and these were mostly performed by dermatologists or aestheic doctors. However due to the high percentage of Alpha Hydroxyl Acids (AHA) used, they can be very irritating to the skin. Arden was the first brand to introduce "Peel and Reveal", an an-home peel treatment that exfoliates the skin gently without irritation. This was thanks the presence of a unique "sugar-cube" technology, which packs the AHA (glycolic acid) in a "sugar cube", thus allowing the AHA to be slowly released upon contact with the skin to exfoliate the skin without irritation. Again Arden was ahead of the game and with its success, came copycats from other prestige beauty brands to also created their version of DIY peels but most of these other copycats have since disappeared from the shelves.

5) Skin illuminating complex: In the early 90s, there was the usual talk about anti-ageing, hydration, firming in the beauty industry. No one was prepare to be hearing something about radiant, healthy looking skin. Arden did a consumer research to ask what women want kind of skin would be desirable and the common answer they got was to have the skin that looks healthy, even without makeup. With this objective in mind, Arden laboratories went on to discover Retinyl Linoleate, a unique form of Vitamin A that promotes healthy-looking skin. Arden introduced another first in the market: A new product called Skin Illuminating Complex, which claims to promote radiance and clarity, in short healthy-looking skin. Most consumers said the product delivers what its tagline promises "in 6 days, see new clarity and in 6 months, skin looks healthier, more radiant even without makeup!". The product was a massive success worldwide and again prompt the other prestige beauty companies to jump on the bandwagon with their version. Arden was again ahead of its time.

These examples go to show that Arden was actually the brand to go for if you wanted innovative skincare products that truly deliver unique and superior results.

Personal life[link]

In 1915, Arden married Thomas J. Lewis, one of her American employees turned banker—thus becoming an American citizen. According to several books written on Elizabeth Arden, Thomas really did adored and loved Elizabeth and was most accommodating to being married to a successful businesswoman, which was not-the-norm in those days. It wasn't just love but Thomas also saw potential in the business and wanted to help Elizabeth grow it further. Thomas was the one that help Elizabeth Arden grow her business beyond the salons when he recommended that her products be sold in departmental stores over the counters. Initially, she was reluctant to do so but at Thomas's convincing persuasion and (love), she agreed and the success of her Point-of-sales business made her an even more wealthy woman. However, Arden was a tough woman and love wasn't exactly something that is constantly on her mind; career and her business was. They divorced in 1934 and it was said then that Thomas was lured over to work for Helena Rubinstein but unfortunately, he never created the "sales magic" he created when he was working for Arden. Miss Arden and Mademoiselle Chanel shared one thing in common, both were strong-headed women who put their careers first as they worked their guts out, both were loved by men whom truly adored them but for both women, the relationships did not last and did not produced any off springs.

A second marriage, to genuine aristocrat (but self-titled) Georgian-Russian Prince Michael Evlanoff, lasted only two years.^{[citation needed]}

Thoroughbred horse racing[link]

Arden used the name Maine Chance Farm for her Thoroughbred horse racing and breeding operation in Lexington, Kentucky. In 1931 she had bought her first horse at the Fasig-Tipton sales at the Saratoga Race Course. From 1944 on, she worked closely with Leslie Combs II who selected and purchased horses for her. However, according to a 1947 interview with the Thoroughbred Record, Combs said she had a good eye for horses herself and chose a number of successful runners on her own.

In the nineteen forties and fifties Elizabeth Arden built her Maine Chance Farm stable into a major force in American Thoroughbred horse racing. In 1945, Star Pilot and Beaugay were the Eclipse Award colt and filly champions, and her stable was the leading money-winner in the United States. In 1947 her colt Jet Pilot, trained and ridden by future Hall of Famers Tom Smith and Eric Guerin won the Kentucky Derby. Putting her on the cover of the May 6, 1946 issue of Time magazine. In 1948, she also acquired the great filly Busher as a broodmare from a spectacular auction conducted by Louis B. Mayer. Busher was not only inducted into the Hall of Fame, she ranked #40 in Blood-Horse magazine List of the Top 100 U.S. Racehorses of the 20th Century. In 1954, her filly "Fascinator," won the Kentucky Oaks. For her contribution to the racing industry, Elizabeth Arden Graham was posthumously inducted into the Canadian Horse Racing Hall of Fame in 2003.

References[link]

• Marshall, Mary. Great Breeders and Their Methods (2008) Russell Meerdink Co. Ltd. ISBN 978-0-929346-82-3
• Woodhead, Lindy. War Paint (2004) Virago ISBN 1-84408-049-8

External links[link]

• Elizabeth Arden, Inc. Homepage
• Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spas web page
• Elizabeth Arden, Inc. Corporate Information
• Elizabeth Arden, Inc. No Animal Testing Policy
• Elizabeth Arden designer profile at Fashion Model Directory
• FBI dossier on Elizabeth Arden
• Sleepy Hollow Cemetery