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Habutai or Habotai is one of the most basic plain weaves. While it was traditionally woven in Japan, most Habutai is today woven in China. It is normally a lining silk but can also be used for T-shirts, lampshades, summer blouses or very light lingerie. It is quite easy to dye and can be found in many stores.

v t e Fabric Woven Aertex Airdura Airguard Barathea Barkcloth Batiste Bedford cord Bengaline silk Beta cloth Bombazine Brilliantine Broadcloth Buckram Bunting Burlap C change Calico Cambric Canvas Chambray Capilene Cedar bark Char cloth Charmeuse Charvet Cheesecloth Chiffon Chino Chintz Cloqué Cloth of gold Cordura Duck Coutil Crape Cretonne Dazzle Denim Dimity Donegal tweed Dowlas Drill Drugget Foulard Flannel Gabardine Gauze Gazar Georgette Ghalamkar Gingham Grenadine Grenfell Cloth Grosgrain Habutai Haircloth Harris Tweed Herringbone Himroo Hodden Irish linen Jamdani Kerseymere Khādī Khaki Khaki drill Kente cloth Lamé Lawn Linsey-woolsey Loden Longcloth Lumalive Mackinaw Madapolam Madras Moleskin Muslin Nainsook Nankeen Ninon Oilskin Organdy Organza Osnaburg Ottoman Oxford Paduasoy Percale Pongee Poplin Rakematiz Rayadillo Rep Rinzu Ripstop Ripstop nylon Russell cord Saga Nishiki Samite Sateen Satin Saye Scarlet Seersucker Serge Scrim Shot silk Stuff Taffeta Tais Toile Tucuyo Tweed Twill Ultrasuede Ventile Vinyl coated polyester Viyella Voile Wadmal Wigan Whipcord Zephyr Zorbeez Figured woven Brocade Camlet Damask Lampas Songket Pile woven Baize Chenille Corduroy Crimplene Fustian Mockado Moquette Plush Polar fleece Terrycloth Velours du Kasaï Velvet Velveteen Zibeline Nonwoven Felt Cedar bark Knitted Boiled wool Coolmax Machine knitting Milliskin Jersey Velour Netted Bobbinet Carbon fiber Fishnet Lace Mesh Needlerun Net Ninon Tulle Technical Ballistic nylon Ban-Lon Conductive Darlexx E-textiles Gannex Gore-Tex Silnylon Spandex Stub-tex SympaTex Windstopper Patterns Argyle Bizarre silk Herringbone Houndstooth Paisley Pin stripes Tartan (Plaid) Tattersall Textile fibers Acrylic Alpaca Angora Cashmere Coir Cotton Hemp Jute Kevlar Linen Mohair Nylon Microfiber Olefin Pashmina Polyester Piña Ramie Rayon Sea silk Silk Sisal Spandex Spider silk Wool Finishing and printing Androsia Batik Beetling Bingata Bògòlanfini Calendering Decatising Finishing Fulling Heatsetting Mercerization Moire Nap Rogan printing Rōketsuzome Roller printing Sanforization Tenterhook Textile printing Waxed cotton Woodblock printing Indienne Related Dyeing Fiber History of textiles History of silk Knitting Pandy Shrinkage Synthetic fabric Terminology Manufacturing Preservation Weaving Yarn

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This article may need to be wikified to meet Wikipedia's quality standards. Please help by adding relevant internal links, or by improving the article's layout. (April 2011) Click [show] on right for more details. No reason has been cited for the Wikify tag on this article.You can insert a reason using the |reason= parameter, like this: {{Wikify|reason=Your reason here}} Please replace HTML markup with wiki markup where appropriate. Add wikilinks. Where appropriate, make links to other articles by putting "[[" and "]]" on either side of relevant words (see WP:LINK for more information) and check that your links work as expected. Please do not link terms that most readers are familiar with, such as common occupations, well-known geographical terms, and everyday items. Format the lead. Create or improve the lead paragraph. Arrange section headers as described at Wikipedia:Guide to layout. Add an infobox if it is appropriate for the article. Clean up / format the references and footnotes, using citation templates when appropriate. Remove this tag.

Michael Michael(1957-) was a British supergrass, or police informer, whose evidence led to 34 people being jailed for 170 years, and the dismantling of 26 different drug syndicates. He was born Constantine Michael Michael to Greek Cypriot parents in Birmingham on November 12, 1957. ^[1]

Among people he informed on were his wife Lynn, given a 24-month jail sentence suspended for two years for her role as a cash courier, and his younger brother, Xanthos, his lover, Sue Richards and Janice Marlborough, his business lieutenant who ran his string of brothels.

Michael's evidence led to drugs worth £49m being recovered from a distribution network that is thought to have smuggled more than 110 kg of cocaine and 19,000 kg of cannabis into Britain. Michael has also alleged that a corrupt police officer took £10,000 cash handouts from him.

Information about Michael's work as an informer were kept secret until December 2001, when a judge at Woolwich crown court sentenced him to six years in jail. Reporting restrictions that had been in place for three years were lifted.^[2]

Michael had admitted one count of conspiracy to import cocaine, a similar charge involving cannabis, and three conspiracies to launder the proceeds. He has also pleaded guilty to possessing a firearm.^[2]

Michael, who lived in Radlett, Hertfordshire, is thought to have been given a new identity under the terms of the witness protection programme.^[2]

Michael, a former hairdresser and unqualified accountant, became a target for customs detectives in January 1998 when the agency launched Operation Draft. He had been identified as a member of a drug ring based at the Lee industrial estate in Hatfield, Hertfordshire, that was smuggling cannabis and cocaine into the country in cars, a coach (nicknamed the Fun Bus) and a tanker.

When officers arrested him four months later on April 25, Michael was wearing body armour and brandished a gun.

Woolwich Crown Court heard that Michael alleged he was paying his handler up to £10,000 a week in return for providing information "of great value" to Michael's operation. He claimed the officer turned a blind eye to the smuggling.

Also jailed was Michael 's younger brother Xanthos, and trusted associate Janice Marlborough, have both been jailed. Tracey Kirby, 38, a former Sun page three model, received three years after admitting being a money courier. She has since been released.^[3]

References[link]

This biographical article needs additional citations for verification. Please help by adding reliable sources. Contentious material about living persons that is unsourced or poorly sourced must be removed immediately, especially if potentially libelous or harmful. (January 2011)

Michael Kors
Michael Kors Photo: Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press
Born	(1959-08-09) August 9, 1959 (age 52) Long Island, New York, United States
Nationality	American
Education	Fashion Institute of Technology
Occupation	Fashion designer
Spouse	Lance LePere (since 2011)[1]
Awards	1999 CFDA award for womenswear designer of the year 2003 CFDA award for menswear designer of the year
Labels	Michael Kors

Michael Kors (born Karl Anderson, Jr.; August 9, 1959)^[2] is an American fashion designer. He is best known for designing classic American sportswear for women.

Personal life[link]

Kors was born Karl Anderson, Jr.^[3] on Long Island, New York, the son of Joan Hamburger, a former model, and her first husband, Karl Anderson, a college student.^[4][5] When his mother remarried when he was five, he was told he could change his name, and he chose to become Michael David Kors.^[6] He grew up in Merrick, New York and graduated from John F. Kennedy High School in Bellmore, New York. Kors' mother is Jewish and his father was of Swedish descent.^[3][7][8][9] Kors currently resides in New York City and married his longtime partner Lance LePere in Southampton, New York on August 16, 2011.^[1]

Career[link]

Michael Kors began designing clothes at the age of 19 and studied fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.^[10] In 1981, Kors launched the Michael Kors womenswear line at Bloomingdales, Bergdorf Goodman, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue. Building on his success, Kors was named the first ever women's ready-to-wear designer and creative director for the French fashion house Celine in 1997. In his tenure at Celine, Kors turned the fashion house around with blockbuster accessories and a critically acclaimed ready-to-wear line. Kors left Celine in October 2003 to concentrate on his own brand. Kors launched his menswear line in 2002.

In addition to the Michael Kors runway collection, the MICHAEL Michael Kors and KORS Michael Kors lines were launched in 2004. KORS is considered the mid-tier line, between the runway and MICHAEL collections. The MICHAEL line includes women's handbags and shoes as well as women's ready-to-wear apparel. The KORS line contains footwear and Jeans. Currently, Kors has full collection boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills, Palm Beach, Manhasset, and Chicago. This year, Michael Kors celebrates 30 years in business.

A dress by Michael Kors, 2010

Among the celebrities who have worn Michael Kors' designs are Jennifer Lopez, Rachel McAdams, Michelle Obama, Elissa, Heidi Klum, and Catherine Zeta-Jones.^{[citation needed]} Joan Allen wore his gown when she was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Actress for her role in the The Contender. In addition, Jennifer Garner wore a custom creation as an Academy Award presenter in 2006. As Creative Director of Celine, Michael Kors designed many outfits for actresses to wear on screen. Gwyneth Paltrow wore Kors' designs in the movie Possession. Cate Blanchett also wore his clothes in the movie Bandits. In addition, he outfitted Rene Russo's character in the 1999 hit remake of The Thomas Crown Affair. Elissa wore his dress in the World Music Awards 2005. The ad campaigns for Michael Kors often reflects the jet-set sportswear that Kors fans are fond of. Previous campaigns include the model Carmen Kass on the tarmac of an airport, on a safari in Africa, and relaxing on a yacht.

Kors is a judge on the Emmy-nominated reality television program Project Runway, which aired on Bravo for five seasons; subsequent seasons aired on Lifetime.

Other honors[link]

In 2010, Kors received the Oliver R. Grace Award for Distinguished Service in Advancing Cancer Research, an annual honor bestowed by the Cancer Research Institute, a U.S. nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing immune system-based treatments for cancer. He received the honor at a black-tie ceremony held June 16, 2010 at The Mandarin Oriental in New York City. In June 2010, Kors was the youngest recipient ever of the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the CFDA and received the Fragrance Foundation’s FiFi Award for Lifetime Achievement.

Legal issues[link]

In January 2009, the estate of artist/designer Tony Duquette sued Kors for trademark infringement after Kors allegedly used Duquette's name and images in promoting Kors' 2009 resortwear collection.^[11]

Pop culture trivia[link]

Michael Kors was referenced in the film 'The Devil Wears Prada' by Meryl Streep's character, Miranda Priestly. In the scene, Miranda sweeps into her office and gives a list of instructions to her personal assistant (Emily Blunt). Miranda commands Emily: "RSVP 'yes' to Michael Kors' party and I want the driver drop to me off at 930 and pick me up at 945 sharp."

References[link]

Further reading[link]

• Stern, Gary M., "Kors' Design Leads To More Outlets, Overseas Growth", Investor's Business Daily, May 25, 2012

External links[link]

• Michael Kors biography, Michael Kors Biography
• MichaelKors.com, Michael Kors Official Website
  • Company Mission Statement, Mission Statement
• Michael Kors designer profile at Fashion Model Directory
• Project Runway Season 5
• File:MICHAEL KORS 221.jpg#filelinks, Michael Kors dress

Vivienne Westwood
Westwood in 2008.
Born	Vivienne Isabel Swire (1941-04-08) 8 April 1941 (age 71) Tintwistle, Derbyshire, England
Nationality	British
Education	University of Westminster, Middlesex University
Occupation	Fashion designer/Businesswoman
Spouse	Sam Westwood (1962–65) (divorced); 1 child Andreas Kronthaler (since 1992)
Children	Ben Westwood (born 1963) Joseph Corré (born 1967)
Awards	British Fashion Designer of the Year 1990, 1991 and 2006.
Labels	Vivienne Westwood

Dame Vivienne Westwood, DBE, RDI (born Vivienne Isabel Swire on 8 April 1941) is a British fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream.^[1]

Life and career[link]

Early life of Vivienne Westwood[link]

Westwood was born Vivienne Isabel Swire in the village of Tintwistle, Derbyshire^{[N 1]} on 8 April 1941,^[2] the daughter of Gordon Swire and Dora Swire (née Ball), who had married two years previously, two weeks after the outbreak of World War II.^[3] At the time of Vivienne's birth, her father was employed as a storekeeper in an aircraft factory; he had previously worked as a greengrocer.^[3]

Aged 17, Vivienne and her family moved to Harrow, London. She studied at the Harrow School of Art - University of Westminster, taking fashion and silversmithing, but she left after one term saying, "I didn't know how a working-class girl like me could possibly make a living in the art world".^[4] After taking up a job in a factory and studying at a teacher-training college, she became a primary school teacher.^[2] During this period, she also created her own jewellery, which she would sell at a stall on Portobello Road.^[2]

In 1961, Vivienne Swire met Derek Westwood, a Hoover factory apprentice, in Harrow.^[5] They married on 21 July 1962 and Vivienne made her own wedding dress for the ceremony.^[5] In 1963, she gave birth to a son, Benjamin Westwood.^[5]

Malcolm McLaren[link]

When she met Malcolm McLaren, it signified the end of Westwood's marriage to Derek. Westwood and McLaren moved to a council flat in Clapham. Westwood continued to teach until 1971 when Malcolm decided to open a boutique at 430 King's Road called "Let It Rock" (later known variously as "Sex", "Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die", and "Seditionaries") and now Worlds Ends, where Westwood sells her Vivienne Westwood label clothing.

Westwood created clothes which McLaren conceived, drawing inspiration from bikers, fetishists and prostitutes.^[6] During this period, McLaren became manager of the punk band Sex Pistols and subsequently the two garnered attention as the band wore Westwood and McLaren's designs. While living in their flat in Clapham, Westwood and McLaren had a child, another son, named Joseph.^{[citation needed]}

Punk era[link]

Westwood was deeply interested in the punk fashion phenomenon of the 1970s, saying "I was messianic about punk, seeing if one could put a spoke in the system in some way".^[5] The "punk style" included BDSM fashion, bondage gear, safety pins, razor blades, bicycle or lavatory chains on clothing and spiked dog collars for jewellery, as well as outrageous make-up and hair. Essential design elements include the adoption of traditional elements of Scottish design such as tartan fabric. Amongst the more unusual elements of her style is the use of historical 17th and 18th century cloth cutting principles, and reinterpreting these in, for instance, radical cutting lines to men's trousers. Use of these traditional elements make the overall effect of her designs more shocking.

Vivienne Westwood company[link]

Westwood has five exclusively-owned shops; three in London, one in Leeds, and one in Milan. Franchise stores are located in Liverpool, Newcastle, Glasgow, three in Manchester (Spring Gardens in the city centre and two others)^{[citation needed]} and most recently, in FH Mall, Nottingham (20 March 2008), and in Blake Street, York (11 September 2008).^{[citation needed]} She also has showrooms in Milan, Paris and Los Angeles.^{[citation needed]}

Artistic collections[link]

The pair of heels designed by Westwood in which Naomi Campbell famously stumbled while modelling at Westwood's fashion show in 1993^[7]

Her first catwalk show was presented in 1981, featuring the collaboration of Westwood and McLaren. The theme that year was Pirates.^[8] Subsequent Westwood's theme titles in the early years included Savage (1982), Buffalo Girls (Autumn/Winter 1982–83) and Clint Eastwood, (Autumn-Winter 1984–85) under the Worlds Ends Label she stopped producing the line in 1985 to concertrate on her Vivienne Westwood Lines. Vivienne Westwood says (“Sometimes you need to transport your idea to an empty landscape and then populate it with fantastic looking people.”).^[8]

She dubbed the period 1981 to 1985 New romantice and 1988 -1991 "The Pagan Years" during which "Vivienne’s heroes changed from punks and ragamuffins to ‘Tatler’ girls wearing clothes that parodied the upper class."^[9] The period from 1993 to 1999 she called "Anglomania" and from 2000 to the present – "Exploration".^[10][11]

Her Autumn/Winter 2005/06 Propaganda Collection drew inspiration from her archive, reinterpreting designs using Wolford's exclusive knitting technology. Westwood has worked in close collaboration with Wolford since 2003.^{[citation needed]} In 2006, she collaborated with Nine West, whose shoes are not designed directly by Westwood, however the Nine West brand name shares its label with Westwood. Westwood's Gold Label and MAN hats are created by Prudence Millinery. In December 2003, she and the Wedgwood pottery company launched a series of tea sets featuring her designs.^{[citation needed]}

The first major retrospective of her work was shown in 2004–5 at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra. The exhibition, created from approximately 145 complete outfits grouped into the themes from the early 1970s to the present day, was drawn from her own personal archive and the V&A's extensive collection. The designs ranged from early punk garments to glamorous "historical" evening gowns.^{[citation needed]}

In July 2011 her collections were presented at the catwalk of The Brandery fashion show in Barcelona.^[12]

Notable clients and commissions[link]

Princess Eugenie wore three different Westwood designs for the pre-wedding dinner, the wedding ceremony and the after-wedding party at the 2011 royal wedding.^[13]
Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, wore Westwood to Royal Ascot in 2009. ^[14]

Artistic influence[link]

Westwood has influenced the launch of the careers of other designers into the British fashion industry. She employed the services of Patrick Cox to design shoes for her Clint Eastwood collection in 1984. The result was a prototype for nine-inch-heeled shoes like the ones worn by supermodel Naomi Campbell when she fell during a Westwood fashion show in Paris in 1993.^{[citation needed]}

[edit] Sex and the City

Westwood's designs were featured in the 2008 film adaptation of the television series Sex and the City. In the film, Carrie Bradshaw becomes engaged to long term lover Mr. Big. Being a writer at Vogue, her editor invites her to model wedding dresses, including a design made by Westwood. The dress is subsequently sent to Carrie as a gift, with a handwritten note from Westwood herself, and Carrie decides to use the Westwood gown.

However, despite being invited to participate in the making of the movie, Westwood was unimpressed with the costuming by renowned stylist Patricia Field. She walked out of the film's London premiere after 10 minutes, publicly criticising the clothing featured as being frumpy and boring.^{[citation needed]} The wedding dress has been described as one of the movie's most iconic features, leading Westwood to approach the producers about being involved in making a sequel.^[15]

Political involvement[link]

Westwood is widely known as a political activist.

In April 1989 Westwood appeared on the cover of Tatler dressed as then-Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher. The suit which Westwood wore had been ordered for Thatcher but had not yet been delivered.^[16] Westwood's appearance on Tatler reportedly infuriated Thatcher.^[16] The cover, which bore the title "this woman was once a punk", has become memorable cover for the magazine and was included in The Guardian's list of the best ever UK magazine covers.^[17] Additionally, the cover date, April 1989, on the magazine bears the words "April fool".^[18]

Dame Vivienne stated on television in 2007 that she had transferred her long standing support for the Labour Party to the Conservative Party, over the issues of civil liberties and human rights.^[19]

On Easter Sunday 2008, she campaigned in person at the biggest Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament demonstration in ten years, at the Atomic Weapons Establishment, Aldermaston, Berkshire.^[20]

In September 2005, Westwood joined forces with the British civil rights group Liberty and launched exclusive limited design T-shirts and baby wear bearing the slogan I AM NOT A TERRORIST, please don't arrest me. Westwood said she was supporting the campaign and defending habeas corpus. "When I was a schoolgirl, my history teacher, Mr. Scott, began to take classes in civic affairs. The first thing he explained to us was the fundamental rule of law embodied in habeas corpus. He spoke with pride of civilisation and democracy. The hatred of arbitrary arrest by the lettres de cachet of the French monarchy caused the storming of the Bastille. We can only take democracy for granted if we insist on our liberty", she said.^[21] The sale of the £50 T-shirts raised funds for the organisation.

Active Resistance Manifesto[link]

In a 2007 interview she spoke out against what she perceive as the "drug of consumerism",^[22] and she attended the première of The Age of Stupid, a film aiming to motivate the public to act against climate change.^[23]

She later created a manifesto of Active Resistance to Propaganda,^{[24][clarification needed]} which deals with the pursuit of art in relation to the human predicament and climate change.^[25] In her manifesto, she "penetrates to the root of the human predicament and offers the underlying solution. We have the choice to become more cultivated and therefore more human – or by muddling along as usual we shall remain the destructive and self-destroying animal, the victim of our own cleverness."^[26]

Against the claim that anti-consumerism and fashion contradict each other, she said in 2007 that "I don't feel comfortable defending my clothes. But if you've got the money to afford them, then buy something from me. Just don't buy too much."^[25]

Vivienne Westwood's London[link]

In January 2011, Westwood was featured in a Canadian-made television documentary called Vivienne Westwood's London in which she takes the viewer through her favourite parts of London, including the Courtauld Institute of Art, the Wallace Collection, Whitechapel (accompanied by Sarah Stockbridge), Hampton Court, the London Symphony Orchestra, Brixton Market and Electric Avenue, and the National Gallery. Her purpose, she said, was to share her love of high culture and to impress its importance on the current generation: "I love this city and its culture. I want to encourage people to love art and believe that culture can save the world. Culture is about people's outlook on the world and along with art, is the anchor that holds us together as a people and gives life greater meaning."^[27]

Recognition[link]

In 1992, Westwood was awarded an OBE, which she collected from Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace.^[28] At the ceremony, Westwood was knicker-less, which was later captured by a photographer in the courtyard of Buckingham Palace. Westwood later said "I wished to show off my outfit by twirling the skirt. It did not occur to me that, as the photographers were practically on their knees, the result would be more glamorous than I expected",^[29] and added "I have heard that the picture amused the Queen".^[29] Westwood advanced from OBE to DBE in the 2006 New Year's Honours List for services to fashion,^[28] and has thrice earned the award for British Designer of the Year.

Personal life[link]

Dame Vivienne Westwood is currently married to her former fashion student, Austrian-born Andreas Kronthaler. For 30 years Westwood lived in the council flat in Clapham until, in 2000, Kronthaler convinced Westwood to move into a Queen Anne style house built in 1703, which once belonged to the mother of Captain Cook.^[30] Westwood does not watch television or read newspapers or magazines. However she is a keen gardener.^[31]

Children[link]

• Ben Westwood, son of Vivienne and Derek Westwood, is a photographer of erotica.
• Joseph Corré, son of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, is the founder of lingerie brand Agent Provocateur.^[32]

Notes[link]

References[link]

External links[link]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Vivienne Westwood

• Official website
• Vivienne Westwood designer profile at Fashion Model Directory
• The Incomplete Sordid works of Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm McLaren for their stores SEX and Seditionaries
• "Vivienne Westwood exhibition website, featuring resources and activities". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1231_vivienne_westwood/. 
• Vivienne Westwood on ELLE TV